Did the "professional" injection cleaning

[ern2112]

Thanks for the info Bob....did it...so far so good.

Here is the link for anyone else who cares.....DO IT...it works!!

http://www.dans-website.com/cleaning_injectors.htm


Couple of questions though. The car ran like crap this morning at idle (I did take it for a spin last night...though short). I assume this is because of all the crap the cleaner shook loose in the injectors and valves...yes? Got to work (65 mile drive)...and the car idled a lot better....but still not perfect.

Next question.....would it be a good idea to go ahead and do another can of cleaner? It seems as though I did not quit get them all the way cleaned out since the idle is still not perfect. Will it pose a problem do another one so soon...or should I wait for a bit to see if it clears itself up?


Thanks agian for all the help

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by ern2112

Thanks for the info Bob....did it...so far so good.

Here is the link for anyone else who cares.....DO IT...it works!!

http://www.dans-website.com/cleaning_injectors.htm


Couple of questions though. The car ran like crap this morning at idle (I did take it for a spin last night...though short). I assume this is because of all the crap the cleaner shook loose in the injectors and valves...yes? Got to work (65 mile drive)...and the car idled a lot better....but still not perfect.

Next question.....would it be a good idea to go ahead and do another can of cleaner? It seems as though I did not quit get them all the way cleaned out since the idle is still not perfect. Will it pose a problem do another one so soon...or should I wait for a bit to see if it clears itself up?


Thanks agian for all the help

It might take a while to settle out. It will not hurt to do another just in case. How is the idle? What is it doing? Try removing and the cleaning the IAC valve around the pintle and where it mounts to the throttle body especially at the in/out orifice because maybe some crud during cleaning worked it's way back through the intake system.

[ern2112]

The idle will be pretty solid then have a little bump...then solid...bump bump.....not bad at all...but still could be better. The real way I can judge it is just ease off the brake...and see how the car will move forward....the "surge" if any is an easy way to tell how it is doing....has WAY less surge than it did before cleaning it....almost gone.

Gonna play stupid here so I dont get it wrong....where exactly is the IAC located......and what does it look like?

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by ern2112

The idle will be pretty solid then have a little bump...then solid...bump bump.....not bad at all...but still could be better. The real way I can judge it is just ease off the brake...and see how the car will move forward....the "surge" if any is an easy way to tell how it is doing....has WAY less surge than it did before cleaning it....almost gone.

Gonna play stupid here so I dont get it wrong....where exactly is the IAC located......and what does it look like?

The IAC is the round black module located at the top of the throttle body (TB) next to the square object which is the MAF sensor. It has an electrical connector. This is looking in towards the engine from the driver's side of the car looking directly at the TB. Two Torx screws hold it on. Good luck!

[ern2112]

Got it.....kinda thought that was right....but wanted to verify. Will report back the findings.

Thanks agian

Ern

[StevePT]

Be careful with the IAC valve. It has a worm drive and you can damage it if you push the pintle in/out too fast. The ideal way to clean the pintle is to get a brass/stainless brush and scrub off the carbon buildup.

A quick way to do the idle "relearn" procedure is to turn the ignition on for 10 seconds (don't start the car) then turn it back off and then turn the car back on and drive it.

Also, don't worry too much about the small "bumps" in the idle. It's normal.

[ern2112]

Cool Steve. It's cause of that radical ass cam huh? LOL

I will say this.....this freakin car pulls HARD from a dead stop.....way harder than some V8's I have had. Love it.

Thanks for the advice on the IAC....I am going to go ahead and clean up the TB while in there to. Might as well.


Hey...ya know...while we are here. What would be your thoughts on the clunking I on the front right side of the vehicle when I step on the gas...AND when I hit the break. CV boots look good...but...could the joints still be causing this? No ticking around corners like you normally here with CV joints either. What do you think?

[StevePT]

When you clean off the throttle body make sure you pick up a new gasket and use some choke/carb cleaner to clean off all the junk that builds up on the back side of the throttle plate. Don't be alarmed when it runs a little rough when you put it back together. Just the vapors from the cleaner will make the engine stumble a bit.

As for the clunking I'd take a look at your engine/transmission mounts.

I agree with you about the low-end power these cars have. I have just the regular 3.1L and it will pull hard on the low end and it keeps pulling throughout a pretty broad rpm range.

On the contarary the last rental car I had was an '06 Ford Taurus and it was the most gutless V6 I've ever drove. No pickup at ALL at any point in the "power-band," or actually lack thereof.

[ern2112]

Steve,


I replaced the motor mounts all the way through.....except the tranny mount....it still seemed ok

Will do on the cleaner....gonna do it this weekend....as well as another can o' injector cleaner direct to fuel rail.

Funny about the Taurus...I had a 94 wagon....and it would haul ass....guess they have shelled the power back a bit in the later years

[jimmyv-21]

never heard of this method but sounds good to me. it is probably the same method they use in shops though.

[ern2112]

Jimmy....it is...and yeah...it works great. No dillution of the cleaner this way....straight to the injector. Read the link at the top of the page...it will tell you how to make your own. By the way....you car will run like crap for a bit afterwords.....it was to blow all the crap out that has been shaken loose.

Ern

[ern2112]

Update.....Did what you said Bob & Steve (cleaned the IAC) ...AND cleaned the entire throttle body with STP throttle body cleaner...I did not have to remove it.....it wasn't that dirty......and the cleaner just ran out of where the air box hose connects......so no nasty stuff got into my intake.........had to burn off the stuff for a few minutes....but after that...wow....the car idles as almost as smooth as when it was new. I did not push the IAC in when I cleaned it.....was afraid of jacking it up......should I have done this? Also....I removed the MAF sensor before cleaning the TB.....and it looked pretty clean to me....so I didnt touch it.....is that cool?

Wanted to let you know....thanks as always


Ern

[StevePT]

Ern,

Glad to hear the car is running well. The backside of the throttle plate is usually what gets the most dirty. Did you manually open the throttle all the way and shine a flashlight on the backside of the plate?

You should NOT have pushed in on the IAC pintle. It's a worm drive, and it's easy to mess up the gears. Just as long as you do the reset procedure you're good to go.

The MAF sensors never really gets dirty so I wouldn't worry much about it.

[ern2112]

Steve

Cool on IAC sensor...thought that was the case. I DID opne the trottle butterfly up manually and shined light in there.....looked clean when I was through.

Something funny happened yesterday though.....all was running well....but when I let my car idle for a few minutes before I was leaving....cylinder 2 had a misfire agian....tripped the light on the car.....and the Actron scanner shows the code for cyl 2 random mis and a pending code for cyl 2 random mis.

Now.....I started all this stuff to fix that very problem. HEre is what I have done

Plugs (Delco Irridium .60 gap)
Accel Wires
Moved coil to new cyl
Cleaned the injectors
Moved cyl 2 inj to cyl 4 and vice versa
Cleaned entire throttle body

The ONLY time I have this trouble is at idle....when the car is hot. A valve would be an all the time thing...and would not trigger a missfire...as far a I know. Maybe I screwed up something when I moved the injectors around...I just find it ironic that the same cylinder is still giveing me trouble. I know that injectors can tend to show their problems when they get hot......but....I dont just want to run out and spend the 100 on one unless I KNOW that is the problem.....

ANy ideas?

[StevePT]

Ern,

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I'm wondering if your wiring to that cylinder might be having issues with heat.