|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
|||||||
| How-To's and Walk-Through's Here's where we show you how it's done! |
![]() |
Show Printable Version |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have a 95 accord DX w/ manual transmission. I am receiving 2 check engine codes.
8= top dead center sensor, crank angle or circuit 15= ignition output signal or faulty ignitor What are the steps to tracking down what is really wrong? It passed California smog about six months ago. The only symptoms I have are, it sometimes shuts off during a long idle there is oil on one of the spark plug threads but not the tip I will really appreciate all help, Robert |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Top dead center?
search my past post concerning that. other than that, reset ecu, if it comes back on, swap out the dizzy.
__________________
99 [email protected] psi si- I voted for the Terminator for Gov. 95 HB- B16a2- SC34@12psi WTB: USDM B16a2 or B16a3 complete short block. pm is the key. FS: B series InlinePro cast mani, PnH RC 550s, and Hondata S2b. pm me. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Top dead center?
Thanks for replying. I read through your posts and the only thing I could find out is that I take that dizzy means distributor. I did reset the ecu but both codes eventually came back. Would a bad distributor create both a code 8 & 15? Are you talking just the cap & rotor or the actual distributor?
Thanks again. |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Top dead center?
the actual sensors in the dizzy. swap out the dizzy with a known working one.
__________________
99 [email protected] psi si- I voted for the Terminator for Gov. 95 HB- B16a2- SC34@12psi WTB: USDM B16a2 or B16a3 complete short block. pm is the key. FS: B series InlinePro cast mani, PnH RC 550s, and Hondata S2b. pm me. |
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Top dead center?
Have you tested the ignitor first? Let me tell you My brother had replaced a distributor on his 95 LX Accord with an H22. The speed shop by us in Chicago told him after they did his swap that the distributor was bad cause the car would idle for a while fine but it drove like crap and cut off on him. But he replaced the dizzy and well it did the same thing. I tested the dizzy short to ground and ohms for all three sensors inside. Got nothing Since the Motor is JDm i went to the TPS and found it wasnt clocked He sold the car to me prior to finding that out and i ended up with a perfectly clean H22 Case in point Check the sensors first before replacing the dizzy cause it may not be bad The crank sensor could be bad but the ignitor could be the only problem too. Lets remember that some sensors are linked to another's failure or CEL light. Take off the ignitor and check it at Autozone or Murrays They have a machine that puts it under loads and tell them to test it bad cause these ignitors show up bad only when hot. Hope this helps some
|
|
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|