95' SC1 not starting

[hyldalea]

Okay, running an errand today, when I got back in the car to leave, it wouldn't start all of a suddon. I haven't had any starting problems before this, even today when I left my house it started fine. It would not even crank at all. It wasn't the battery because the radio still came on, and the dash lights all came on for a few seconds just like they're supposed to, none of them stayed on indicating a problem - the damn thing just wouldn't start! There was no winding, no cranking, no clicking - no noises at all. I tried to start it several times - every few minutes or so but it would not start. Then just as my sister was pulling up to take me home I thought I'd try one last time and it started. However, when I got home and turned off the car, I waited a minute and tried to start it again and the same thing happened -no starting. A few hours later I went out, it started this time, so I turned it off and on 2 or 3 times - it started each time. I don't want to get stranded anywhere again. Does anyone know what this could be, or at least a good place to start looking? A short maybe?

Also, can someone tell me exactly what a diode tester is used to test. Not a multimeter, an old diode (only)tester - it has a plug and two leads (pos/neg)

[Tacuvito]

Diode

The term diode usually implies a small signal device with current typically in the milliamp range. A semiconductor diode consists of a PN junction and has two(2) terminals, an anode(+) and a cathode(-). Current flows from anode to cathode within the diode. An ideal diode is like a light switch in your home. When the switch is closed, the circuit is completed; and the light turns on. When the switch is open, there is no current and the light is off.

[Tacuvito]

Hey, here is a list of possible things that could be causing your engine to not turn. I got it from Haynes manual.

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.

Battery discharged or faulty.

Automatic transmission not completely engaged in park or clutch not completely depressed.

Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit.

Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear.

Starter solenoid faulty.

Started motor faulty.

Ignition switch faulty.

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn ro broken.

Now on with the repairs! Good luck! hope this helps you.

Tacuvito.

[hyldalea]

Thanks, I have the Haynes manual too. Luckily, I haven't had the problem again - seems to be starting up fine, ...for now. Thanks for your help

[stevestar99]

Never had this problem on a Saturn, but other GMs I've own have had the problem with the starter solenoid freezing up when the engine was hot. The next time it happens, if you can get under the car and tap on the solenoid with something heavy, it will loosen it up or if you don't want to fool around just go get a new starter.

[Tacuvito]

I don't think in these cars you can just reach under the car and hit the starter to loosen whatever it is stuck. You might be thinking of another model. I have a Dodge Dakota and I have done the procedure you Stevestar just explained on that truck, but these saturns are a different beast.

[hyldalea]

thanks. Wouldn't it make that winding kind of noise (like it's trying to turn over) if it were the starter. I had actually only driven about 2 - 3 miles when it happened - and that was the first time I had driven the car all day, so it shouldn't have been that hot. Luckily, it hasn't happened again, it started just fine yesterday. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

[Tacuvito]

yes you are right it about the winding noise when stuck. I think it would be a great idea you replace the starter. Start eliminating possibilities. It will give you more confidence when you go out in your car. Remember, just because it has not happened, does not mean it won't happen again.

Tacuvito

[hyldalea]

I know that all too well, thanks alot

[stevestar99]

The solenoid is the big bulge on the side of the starter where the battery cables are connected. If the solenoid gets stuck all the way back, you hear nothing. It's when your battery is low you will here the solenoid clicking trying to push the power contact close for the motor. The whirring noise is the motor when the centrifugal worm gear is jammed and is not being driven up into the flywheel. The last time I checked it goes something like this: You turn the key, the solenoid (a spring loaded electro magnet) plunger is pulled back which closes the 12v 500 amp contact which supply the motor with power. As the motor spins, a cog gear which rides on a worm gear shaft is driven up into the flywheel. When you let go of the key, the solenoid is pushed back by it's spring which opens the motor contact and the worm gear stops putting pressure on the cog which is pushed back into the starter motor housing by the spring on the end of the shaft. There are usually only couple reason the starter is a no go if you've got a good battery and the battery terminals aren't corroded. A bad key switch which doesn't happen that often, a bad connection on the starter or a bad starter. A classic symptom of a starter on it's way out is; "It started this morning, I went to the store and got zip when I came out. I waited an hour and it started right up."