89 Camry Battery Keeps Draining

[RomDonLom]

I have an 89 Camry and I did not drive it for 4 days straight. The battery was dead. I bought a new battery and after 5 days the battery went dead again. Went exchanged the battery once again. After a few days, same problem. I noticed next to my oil light, a warning light comes on reading "lights". What could possibly be the problem?

[jimmywei]

I guess there's a short in your circuit. I also have the "light" warning for my 89 Camry, it tells you there might be something wrong in your taillight. I check it, the light is OK, so I just keep driving. For your case, I think there's a short in your taillight circuit, you can check the circuit first. If the circuit is OK, unplug the fuse to narrow the area. Another thing you can do is to check the drain current by a multimeter when every is off, including the door and trunk. Usually the drain current is very small, my 89 camry is 18ma. If it over 100ma, you might have a drain current problem. If the current is small, there ight be other problem, like alternator.
Another solution is to disconnect the battery everytime you park your car over night. There is some stuff in autosotre you can buy to easily disconnect your battery. The only problem is, you have to open your hood everytime you want to drive.

[robshan]

may need replacement altenator, mine was coming up with "lights" and "charge" and eventually, after my car died I replaced the altenator with a second hand one from a wrecker and now it works perfectly.

I was finding also that the water in my battery kept disappearing and going flat.

[jimmywei]

So he better measure the drain current from the battery to confirm and locate the problem first before replacing anything .

[Mike Gerber]

To check the current when the engine is off, (usually referered to as dark current) you disconnect one of the battery cables and put a digital volt/ohmeter set to a miliamp scale between the battery cable and the post. I would suggest using the negative cable/post just to be safe. Then check the reading. It should be less than 20 miliamps. If it is noticeably higher, than you have an excess dark current draw. That means something is running when the engine is off. If this is the case you usually start pulling fuses, one at a time, to see when the excess current is eliminated. When it is, you know the excess current draw is related to one of the devices controled (protected) by that fuse. Many times I have seen excess dark current draws traced to an aftermarket alarm.

In additon, the light in the dash may indicate the alternator is not functioning properly. You can also use the digital volt/ohmeter to check the condition of the battery and alternator. Set the meter on a 20 volt DC scale. Now just measure the battery voltage by touching the 2 probes to the battery post. It should read 12 volts or slightly above 12 volts. If it does not, charge the battery from an outside source and retest. When it is measuring 12 volts or above, move on to testing the alternator. Start the car and touch the 2 probes to the battery posts again. If the alternator is working properly, with the engine running, you should measure 14 to 14.6 volts. I have a hunch it is your alternator that is not functioning properly. That may be the light you are seeing on the dash. If you have access to a DVM, do these simple tests.

Mike

[TeleAl]

I have just had a similar problem. My 89 Camry had the charge, brake and lights warning lights come on yesterday and last night. The blower on the heater slowed down, lights dimmed and then when the warning lights went off, the blower resumed its normal output.

Car started this morning on first crank, then when I tried to start it later, battery was dead. Switched batteries and now car won't start and I can't get any spark. I think it is the alternator, however, don't want to spend $200+ to find out.

Any suggestions??

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by TeleAl

I have just had a similar problem. My 89 Camry had the charge, brake and lights warning lights come on yesterday and last night. The blower on the heater slowed down, lights dimmed and then when the warning lights went off, the blower resumed its normal output.

Car started this morning on first crank, then when I tried to start it later, battery was dead. Switched batteries and now car won't start and I can't get any spark. I think it is the alternator, however, don't want to spend $200+ to find out.

Any suggestions??

The 3 lights that came on in the dash usually indicate that the alternator is defective. A rebuilt alternator should run about $125 for an aftermarket one, if you do the removal and installation yourself. This is an easy DIY job. Just remember to disconnect the negative battery cable before starting the work. You might also consider taking the alternator to an electrical auto rebuilding shop and have them rebuild your exhisting alternator, especially if it the original alternator. I personally feel they usually do a better job of rebuilding, then the assembly line rebuilders do. This is assuming you can find an auto electrical rebuilder in your area.

That said, I don't understand why the battery you "switched to" wouldn't start the car and why it didn't produce "any spark". Are you sure the battery you "switched to" was a good, fully charged battery? Have you tried jump starting the car to see if the battery is the problem? If the car was turning over, even slowly, you should get at least some spark. I really don't understand that.

Mike

[TeleAl]

Mike,

Thanks for the quick response. I really think it is the alternator, considering robshan's and your response. The battery I put in was from a neighbour and it seems to be cranking the engine well. I also tried to jump start and was unsuccessful. This is where my problem and robshan's differs as his car kept starting.

Is it possible if the alternator is totally dead that I will get no spark. This is the thing that is confusing me now, as it makes me wonder if there is some other electrical problem. I might just try an alternator from a wrecker instead of a rebuild. I was quoting in Cannuck dollars. Aftermarket here ranges from 200 to 280 before tax. What a rip eh!

Thanks for your input.

[Mike Gerber]

I wouldn't think the alternator being totally dead would keep you from getting any spark. Are you sure you tested for spark correctly? Did you use a spark tester or were you laying a plug on a metal ground and having someone crank the engine?

You might want to check the coil if you are sure you are not getting any spark. Your generation had a fairly common problem where the coil inside the distributor would develope a hairline crack and short itself to ground on any metal part inside the distributor. Also, check the cap and rotor for cracks and evidence of arcing. Be sure to turn the rotor over and look for a crack where the rotor sits on the shaft of the distributor.

If you are not getting any spark, then you have 2 problems. The first is the defective alternator and the second is the no spark problem.

Good luck.

Mike

[TeleAl]

Thanks Mike,

Yes I was checking spark the lazy mans way, so the 'no spark' is not absolutely definite. I will check the dizzy/rotor and coil next.

Thanks heaps for your advice. Appreciate your assistance.

Alan.

[RomDonLom]

Problem Found! The light in my trunk was staying on even when it was closed. I found this out when I was checking my speakers in the back and noticed the light was on. The trunk is not closing properly to push the button down for the light to turn off. Thanx everyone for their help. I appreciate it.

[RIP]

RomDonLom You deserve a big pat on the back for telling us what fixed it. Too many on this site will post a problem, chat back and forth a bit, then nothing. Thanks again!

[TeleAl]

Well I finally fixed my problem as well. Not just the alternator as I had originally thought. Electrics had a major meltdown. Could not start after the alternator was replaced so replaced the igniter. Car started but would not continue to run. So replaced the Dizzy/coil, and found a faulty earth on the ignition. And finally, my car works again.

I also noticed that the stutter that my car had under acceleration has disappeared. As you suggested Mike, the coil may have been shorting, which may have caused the stutter.

I appreciate everyones advice and comments. Hope this helps anyone with similar problems. Tracking electrical problems really sucks, but this site made it easier.

TeleAl.

[rimfire,22]

Originally Posted by robshan

may need replacement altenator, mine was coming up with "lights" and "charge" and eventually, after my car died I replaced the altenator with a second hand one from a wrecker and now it works perfectly.

I was finding also that the water in my battery kept disappearing and going flat.

robhan,

WOW! Don't you hate these things? I hate trying to trouble shoot electrical problems. Your only have 10 fingers on you hands to figure what it might be.

Sometimes it's better to take it to the dealershipna dhave them handle it.

Glad your issue was solved.

rimfire,22

[robshan]

Originally Posted by rimfire,22

robhan,

Sometimes it's better to take it to the dealershipna dhave them handle it.

Glad your issue was solved.

rimfire,22

If I cant find the problem I take it to a mechanic and get them to give me a quote on how much it will be to fix it and what the problem is, then I take the car home, ring spare parts dealers and wreckers and replace/fix the problem myself

stuffed if I'm gonna give some dude $60 an hour to replace something I can do for myself......just need his troubleshooting skills.