Now its knocking!

[Jeremy Fitch]

Well guys looks like that intake gasket that took a dump a few months back has finnaly reared its ugly head again. Engine is now knocking pretty good. Knock gets louder when the #6 plug wire is pulled. I was thinking it was a rod bearing but it should get quiter insted of louder. Now I am thinking it may be a piston or piston pin problem. Going to do some more troubleshooting to try to narrow it down but its looks like its going to run into big bucks. Not sure what to do at this point, its a 96 with 144k on it, new gas tank and intake gasket and U joint. Thinking about just selling it as it and taking the loss.

[93LT]

Just an FYI. You might try a salvage yard for a used engine. I recently checked my local yards and found a 98 vortec with 103K for 550. Another had a 96 with 142K for 400. The one for 550 came with a 30 day warranty, the one for 400 came with a 90 day warranty and both yard said those engine were running smooth and quiet when they were pulled.

Just a suggestion. Seems fairly cheap and quick, and you have your old motor to rebuild at leisure if you so desire.

[Jeremy Fitch]

Originally Posted by 93LT

Just an FYI. You might try a salvage yard for a used engine. I recently checked my local yards and found a 98 vortec with 103K for 550. Another had a 96 with 142K for 400. The one for 550 came with a 30 day warranty, the one for 400 came with a 90 day warranty and both yard said those engine were running smooth and quiet when they were pulled.

Just a suggestion. Seems fairly cheap and quick, and you have your old motor to rebuild at leisure if you so desire.

I am looking into that option. Not many salvage yards near me and what I have checked so far has not had any to fit. I wish I could find one for around that price, that would be great.

[OverBoardProject]

Word of advice.
Don't take a motor that's already pulled. Sure they say that it was running good when they pulled it but I've seen so many "good motors" that are really a wornout piece of junk. And you don't find out until it's too late.

They tend to not honor their warranty then so your stuck with it. And even if they do is it worth it to pull a running motor back out.

My advice is look at the motors not pulled. Run the truck, and do a compression test. If they won't let you do this they don't trust the engine so you don't want it.

I usually work out a deal at this point where I'll pull it usually saving about $100.00

[93LT]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

Word of advice.
Don't take a motor that's already pulled. Sure they say that it was running good when they pulled it but I've seen so many "good motors" that are really a wornout piece of junk. And you don't find out until it's too late.

They tend to not honor their warranty then so your stuck with it. And even if they do is it worth it to pull a running motor back out.

My advice is look at the motors not pulled. Run the truck, and do a compression test. If they won't let you do this they don't trust the engine so you don't want it.

I usually work out a deal at this point where I'll pull it usually saving about $100.00

Excellent advice for most salvage yards. The two I happen to deal with are very trust worthy and also will do a compression test for you on the spot, regardless of the motor running. Of course in my line of work, you tend to figure out the salvage yards to avoid for those reasons mentioned above.

[Jeremy Fitch]

Well I found a shop that will pull and rebuild the motor for 1800.00 or less depending on what shape its in. That includes boring the heads and new pistons , ring, and machine work if it needs it. I am hoping its in pretty good shape inside, even though its knocking pretty good there is no trace of metal in the oil that I can see. Will let you know how things go. Taking it in Friday morning.

[candywrapper]

hello;
I just had my 99 S-10 Blazer motor just rebuilt,here is a list of what it cost me to have it done from a very reliable service mechanic in my area.

complete overhaul---------------------------$1485.00
dexcool antifreeze---------------------------$16.00
fuel filter------------------------------------$18.00
pcv valve-----------------------------------$3.00
spark plugs---------------------------------$18.00
spark plug wires-new------------------------$27.00
engine cleaner-------------------------------$3.00
new engine cooler line------------------------$53.00
New radiator---------------------------------$263.00
labor for all services--------------------------$792.00
______________
$ 2678.00
new radiator was installed because of possible steel shavings remaining in the rad.even with after repeated cleanings,this was recomended by the people that did the motor rebuild.
the labor was around $47 per hour
This Suv only had 80,000 mile on it when it let loose,spun 4 bearings in it .
It didnt go slowly,done it in less than a mile.was running smooth then died all of a sudden. This really ticked me off big time.when it died ,i checked all levels of fluids.motor oil was on full mark.trans oil was on full mark,water level was on full levels too. yet the motor shop told me water was the cause of the blown engine .I have no idea how water got in it tho.Im very disapointed in GM products as of this.this truck has never had any major problems in the whole time i owned it.just minor maintence stuff.Allso this vehicle never used any needed fluids in between oil changes of 3000 mile intervals.Go figure

Candywrapper

[herkyhawki]

Originally Posted by Jeremy Fitch

Knock gets louder when the #6 plug wire is pulled. I was thinking it was a rod bearing but it should get quiter insted of louder.

Knock gets louder when plug pulled = main bearing problem. Make sure the machine shop "align hones" the mains as part of their machine work. This will add about $100-150.

Originally Posted by Jeremy Fitch

Thinking about just selling it as it and taking the loss.

Plan on spending $2300 on this repair. There will always be adders to the $1800 quoted. Look at it this way.: If you sell as is for $800 (my guess) and then put that $2300 with it you'll have $3100 to go buy something else. Can you buy a solid vehicle with a new motor for $3100?

[Jeremy Fitch]

Originally Posted by herkyhawki

Knock gets louder when plug pulled = main bearing problem. Make sure the machine shop "align hones" the mains as part of their machine work. This will add about $100-150.


Plan on spending $2300 on this repair. There will always be adders to the $1800 quoted. Look at it this way.: If you sell as is for $800 (my guess) and then put that $2300 with it you'll have $3100 to go buy something else. Can you buy a solid vehicle with a new motor for $3100?

Yes, you are right, thats is why I decided on going ahead and getting it rebuilt. Besides I like the truck and at least with it I know what care has been put into it. I am aware that it can run into more cost but I am hoping that it does not run too much over. I already went ahead and bought new radiator hoses, termostat, plugs, wires, rotor cap, and rotor button for it. I plan to do another oil change about 500 miles after I get it back and put Mobil 1 5W30 back in it. If it were not for the good oil thats been in it I don't think it would have lasted this long.

[candywrapper]

Jeremy;
The motor shop that my mechanic took it to ,told us to put on atleast 2000 miles with regular motor oil before you switch to synthetic oil. to seat all the seals and other things a new motor needs to break in first. when you spend all that money for the overhaul,you might not want to get in a hurry to switch . as you can see what i spent on mine.Its definatly not cheap.

[srbianats]

Sorry to get off topic. Jeremy, that pic is avatar material. Where did you get it? OK, back to the regular scheduled program.

[Jeremy Fitch]

Originally Posted by srbianats

Sorry to get off topic. Jeremy, that pic is avatar material. Where did you get it? OK, back to the regular scheduled program.

Yes, not sure where I saw it, but I saved it when I did. Too bad avatars here can not be anamated.

[Jeremy Fitch]

Originally Posted by candywrapper

Jeremy;
The motor shop that my mechanic took it to ,told us to put on atleast 2000 miles with regular motor oil before you switch to synthetic oil. to seat all the seals and other things a new motor needs to break in first. when you spend all that money for the overhaul,you might not want to get in a hurry to switch . as you can see what i spent on mine.Its definatly not cheap.

Perhaps your right, will make the first change at 500 miles with regular oil. Then after that will make the switch back. That way all the gaskets and seals will get some regular oil before the switch. Its going to be nice having a like new motor again.