1998 Blazer fuel pump stopped

[Yogii]

I've viewed this forum often and gained valuable insite. Thanks to those that respond. I've searched and can't find a problem that is like mine, so here it is.

Drove my Blazer to work and then to lunch without any problems. When I was going to go home all systems seem to be working, starter, lights etc. The starter turned the engine without starting. After a couple of tries I noticed that the familiar buzzing from the fuel pump when you turn the key to "on" was missing. From noon until 4PM something broke while the car was sitting. Any thoughts?

[fam_mechanic]

Originally Posted by Yogii

I've viewed this forum often and gained valuable insite. Thanks to those that respond. I've searched and can't find a problem that is like mine, so here it is.

Drove my Blazer to work and then to lunch without any problems. When I was going to go home all systems seem to be working, starter, lights etc. The starter turned the engine without starting. After a couple of tries I noticed that the familiar buzzing from the fuel pump when you turn the key to "on" was missing. From noon until 4PM something broke while the car was sitting. Any thoughts?

Fuel pump relay on fire wall passenger. side between engine and heater box. Also Have some one turn the key while you use a meter to test circut at the fuel pump plug.Don't know if this will narrow it down for you but its a start. If you have juice back to the plg when the key is turned, I'd say the fuel pump if not try the relay.

[Southern Comfort]

One very common problem with electric fuel pumps falling all of a sudden
is, a dead spot on the armature of the pump motor. Some times you can
bump it and it will work again for a while. Until it shots on the dead spot again. Check the relay like family mechanic said. If the relay is working,check for voltage at the connector on the top of your tank. These fuel pumps aren't very cheap, so you want to make sure it is the fuel pump for sure. Check to see if you have fuel in the little valve fitting under your hood. Post back with the info please.
Thanks
SC

[fam_mechanic]

Originally Posted by Southern Comfort

One very common problem with electric fuel pumps falling all of a sudden
is, a dead spot on the armature of the pump motor. Some times you can
bump it and it will work again for a while. Until it shots on the dead spot again. Check the relay like family mechanic said. If the relay is working,check for voltage at the connector on the top of your tank. These fuel pumps aren't very cheap, so you want to make sure it is the fuel pump for sure. Check to see if you have fuel in the little valve fitting under your hood. Post back with the info please.
Thanks
SC

Yea Like Southern Comfort said.Ther is a fuel pressure test port on the drivers side of the engine,at the back of the intake.You may have to move a few wires out of the way to see it. The valve will have a small cap on it almost like a tire valve stem.Remove it and check your fuel pressure there.On the fender well on the drivers side there will be a RED WIRE with a connector on it. The wire looks like it should be plugged into something,but it isnt.This wire is your test led for your fuel pump.You can run a jumper wire to this from the battery and it should make your pump cycle,and you should be able to atleast somewhat hear it.

[terry9128]

Had same problem on my 98 blazer pulled into a store was running fine went out 15 minutes later wouldnt start tested pressure none from fuel pump be careful though chevrolet put 3 different fuel pumps in the 98
i took awhile to figure out but the difference is in where the seal is the rest of the pump looks the same
i replaced mine and it is working fine
good luck buy the way the pump is $300.00

[fam_mechanic]

Wow 300.00 mine was 84 bucks out the door. going rate in ohio.

[terry9128]

prices are great in ohio dealer here wanted $600.00

[Yogii]

Originally Posted by fam_mechanic

Wow 300.00 mine was 84 bucks out the door. going rate in ohio.

Thanks for all the good advice. My schedule doesn't allow me to check it out before Saturday. Will let you know the outcome.
BTW, Fam_Mechanic, if I do need a fuel pump, where did you get the $84 dollar one? I checked around here (Cincinnati area) and it's in the $260 range.

[fam_mechanic]

Originally Posted by Yogii

Thanks for all the good advice. My schedule doesn't allow me to check it out before Saturday. Will let you know the outcome.
BTW, Fam_Mechanic, if I do need a fuel pump, where did you get the $84 dollar one? I checked around here (Cincinnati area) and it's in the $260 range.

goto http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...7C%7EFUEL+PUMP I'm sorry it was 90 bucks and I'm about 1.5 hours north of cincy in Springfield Ohio ,or about 15 miles do east of I70 & I75 crossing

[fam_mechanic]

Originally Posted by Yogii

Thanks for all the good advice. My schedule doesn't allow me to check it out before Saturday. Will let you know the outcome.
BTW, Fam_Mechanic, if I do need a fuel pump, where did you get the $84 dollar one? I checked around here (Cincinnati area) and it's in the $260 range.

I cant believe its that much there.I only paid $277.00 for the whole pci unit and nut kit

[mike2004tct]

Originally Posted by terry9128

prices are great in ohio dealer here wanted $600.00

The reason for the difference in prices is this,
1.)You can buy just the pump if you know the part number, from any GM dealer (~$100.00) you can look this up at www.gmpartsdirect.com
2.)You can buy the complete fuel pump assembly from most parts stores for ~$300.00. this includes the housing 2 strainer socks,and the float level sensor.
3.) you can buy this same assembly from any GM dealer for ~$450.00.

The best way to go (in my opinion) is to buy the assembly from Napa,Autozone, etc, because you get a new housing. The old housings have a tendency to crack or break during the retrofit, plus you get a new gasket.

[djontime]

Originally Posted by Yogii

I've viewed this forum often and gained valuable insite. Thanks to those that respond. I've searched and can't find a problem that is like mine, so here it is.

Drove my Blazer to work and then to lunch without any problems. When I was going to go home all systems seem to be working, starter, lights etc. The starter turned the engine without starting. After a couple of tries I noticed that the familiar buzzing from the fuel pump when you turn the key to "on" was missing. From noon until 4PM something broke while the car was sitting. Any thoughts?

First make sure that your battery is FULLY charged! Then attemp to start the vehicle using short bursts of the key (about 2 to 2.5 sec.). if after about 6 to 7 tries you hear the engine attempt top start, the your fuel pump is gone. I drove my ,96 arounf like that for a month. The short cranks allows the pump to build up enough pressure to allow the engine to start. This of coarse assume that there is still electrical continuity going through the pump and the volume is just not enough to start the vehicle.
Get a fuel gauge and check the pressure. That will of coarse answer your question.

[fam_mechanic]

Originally Posted by mike2004tct

The reason for the difference in prices is this,
1.)You can buy just the pump if you know the part number, from any GM dealer (~$100.00) you can look this up at www.gmpartsdirect.com
2.)You can buy the complete fuel pump assembly from most parts stores for ~$300.00. this includes the housing 2 strainer socks,and the float level sensor.
3.) you can buy this same assembly from any GM dealer for ~$450.00.

The best way to go (in my opinion) is to buy the assembly from Napa,Autozone, etc, because you get a new housing. The old housings have a tendency to crack or break during the retrofit, plus you get a new gasket.

good way of getting to the bottom of that.One last note though,I have never needed to change the whole assembly.Once or twice I've had to cut the lines on top.They make a replacemet that have tapered ends so you can stick them down into the tube that u cut and solder or (swet) them together.Atleast they give you an option thank for finding out the price differance.I figured the assembly was a dealer part,so i never tried or have had to buy one (yet)

[Yogii]

Had an opportunity to begin troubleshooting today.
1. Swapped relays in the under the hood fuse box - negative results.
2. Located a relay mounted on the passenger side firewall - Should I replace as a test? Is there a jumper test?
3. Can't find the red wire connector on the drivers side wheel well mentioned earlier. This one seems to be the definitive test. Hit it with a hot wire and see if the pump runs. If this is in error, is there another test lead?
4. Looked under the rear of the car and the leads to the fuel pump don't look accessible as well as being able to rap on the pump for a test. Did I overlook something?

I'm not opposed to dropping the fuel tank but don't want to unnecessarily.

[mike2004tct]

Originally Posted by Yogii

Had an opportunity to begin troubleshooting today.
1. Swapped relays in the under the hood fuse box - negative results.
2. Located a relay mounted on the passenger side firewall - Should I replace as a test? Is there a jumper test?
3. Can't find the red wire connector on the drivers side wheel well mentioned earlier. This one seems to be the definitive test. Hit it with a hot wire and see if the pump runs. If this is in error, is there another test lead?
4. Looked under the rear of the car and the leads to the fuel pump don't look accessible as well as being able to rap on the pump for a test. Did I overlook something?

I'm not opposed to dropping the fuel tank but don't want to unnecessarily.

There should be three relays on the firewall. They're all interchangeable, so give it a try if you like, but the fuel pump relay is in the glove box (also three interchangeable relays there).
The red test lead for the fuel pump should be close to the firewall on the driver side fender wall. It will have a insulated fast-on (.250 wide) connector on the end. It should be sticking out of the harness bundle all by itself. (may appear to be orange)
edit;
The wire harness to the pump is on the top of the tank. You have to drop the tank to get at them (you also need a long arm). Be very carefull doing this, as the wire leads are short, and you need to support the tank as you lower it. It rather tricky getting at them without breaking plastic parts of the pump housing off. You can't rap on the pump because it's inside the tank.