starting problem

Rlemar · #1 01-10-2006, 06:27 PM

My daughter has a 97 sc1 and it has starting problem. The first time she said she stalled it and it wouldn't start. After waiting awhile on the side of the road it started and ran okay until the next morning when it stalled. I am familiar with cars from my past but not up to speed on this car. It started for me and I made it home. The service engine soon light is on. I have a feeling it is the fuel pump but I replaced the filter and the plug wires (I noticed it had a bad wire) and cleaned the plugs. It started and ran better but I noticed a miss on acceleration and an occasional pause but it ran and started several times. Later in the evening it wouldn't start but it did the next morning and today when I was going to go to autozone to pull the codes. I stalled it and it wouldn't start. It cranks just won't start. What do you think I should do next?

peppermrj · #2 01-11-2006, 04:14 PM

Welcome to the forum.
Welcome to saturn. You will find them to be very educational. Two things.
1 ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor) The older models (2000 on down) had sensors with a composite/plastic tip. They would crack and fail. Saturn redesigned them with an all brass tip. They will cause starting, running, mileage, and a few other issues. They are available online for under $20.00 shipping included @ www.saturnparts.com or www.saturnparts.net. You can also get them from the dealer but will pay a little more. I would recommend the OEM part.
Two links on replacement procedures.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24003
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37884

2 Check the oil. I should say be sure your daughter checks the oil. These cars have some oil consumption issues. Every fillup or at least every other fillup.

peppermrj · #3 01-11-2006, 04:19 PM

Changing the ects should get you up and running. Forgot to mention to check the connector for corrosion. Clean and replace as needed.

The engine light can be a seperate issue. Get it running and have autozone pull the codes. Post back with results.
Good luck and be sure your daughter gets you a beer for all your hard work.

Rlemar · #4 01-12-2006, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peppermrj

Changing the ects should get you up and running. Forgot to mention to check the connector for corrosion. Clean and replace as needed.

The engine light can be a seperate issue. Get it running and have autozone pull the codes. Post back with results.
Good luck and be sure your daughter gets you a beer for all your hard work.

I replaced the ECTS but not the connector. It appeared to be in good shape. It wouldn't start. I also disconnected the negative cable and reattached it. Then I went to Autozone and borrowed a code scanner and pulled a code for a misfire on cylinder 2 but that was it for codes. O cleared the code and removed and reattached the wire on 2. I have recently replaced the spark wires and # 2 was bad before. After doing this I tried to start it and then checked for codes again, no codes. I detattached the inflow gas line and turned the key to on and there was gas flow. I did the same for the outflow line and there was gas flow. I don't have a clue to what the pressure may be as I don't have a gauge to test it. My gut tells me it is the fuel pump but I hoped it might be something else. Any suggestions?

peppermrj · #5 01-12-2006, 05:47 PM

First thing is to check for spark. Pull two wires off of one coil, crank the engine and look for spark between the two terminals.
Did you use the scan tool to clear the code?

sierrap615 · #6 01-13-2006, 12:17 AM

the 97 year did have a problem with the fuel rail losing residual pressure after a few hours. easy fix - turn the key to on, wait 5-10 seconds then turn to start. this will give the pump time to prime the system. that explans the hard start, but not the missfire.

saturnspeed_12 · #7 01-13-2006, 10:23 AM

ok now i was thinking the ects, but also where did you buy the ects from? the connector can look good because normally the corrosion goes inside the connector to the wires which would mean having to cut that off and wiring in a new one. now it could possibly be a fuel pump, you need to get a gauge and drive it down the road with the gauge visible on the windshield and check the pressure. at idle it should be 45, driving down the road it can get up to 55. now thats the pressures i had with my car with a brand new pump and module and filter. i think the manual specifys a lower pressure, but mine runs great and does alot better then most all other saturns. im getting 38mpg easily even driving it hard.

now possibly you could have also bought bad wires and/or plugs. what brand did you go with when buying those? also this can possibly be brought about by the crank position sensor.

DerfDerf · #8 01-16-2006, 11:44 AM

Indeed, crank pos sensor can be the culprit. Would recommend stock saturn wires and plugs -- I have read too many posts w/r/t strange ignition woes with aftermarket parts. Misfire on cyl #2 may also be from low compression in #2. After confirming spark as advised above, do a compression check and post results. Also, cannot rule out EGR for the runs/stalls/wait/starts like nothing happened syndrome (been there).

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