Removing coolant "quick connect fitting"

[Elk1]

The "quick connect" fitting that goes into the top rear of the engine (coolant return line I believe) broke off and I have been trying to remove broken piece still in opening. I have been using a set of easy outs but they just seem to "grind down" the stuck piece. I am afraid of ruinning the threads on the intake. Am I doing the correct thing, any tricks?

[aztecf]

You are not alone, many have fought with this. You need to use a file or dremel and cut the fitting in half from the inside out, cut on the top and bottom or left and right side which ever is easiest, try just to cut as deep as you need to. Then pry, chip etc. out the pieces and run the correct size tap in the hole, I borrowed a tap from a local automotive machine shop.

Jeff

[Elbert]

Originally Posted by Elk1

The "quick connect" fitting that goes into the top rear of the engine (coolant return line I believe) broke off and I have been trying to remove broken piece still in opening. I have been using a set of easy outs but they just seem to "grind down" the stuck piece. I am afraid of ruinning the threads on the intake. Am I doing the correct thing, any tricks?

I don't know of an easy way to do replace that fitting. I've always though that it was a "piss-poor" design. I removed mine when it broke (like thousands of others), and I installed the old style brass or stain-less type fitting and I also removed "formed" heater hose and went back to using standard heater hose.

I've heard different stories as to why GM went with this type of setup. My "fix" has lasted about 2 years now with no problems. I did wrap the hearter hose with some scrap sections of old heater hose that I split and tie strapped in locations where the hose rubs a bracket. Other than that, I basically reverted back to the old school setup. I don't care for that setup at all.

[Elk1]

Originally Posted by aztecf

You are not alone, many have fought with this. You need to use a file or dremel and cut the fitting in half from the inside out, cut on the top and bottom or left and right side which ever is easiest, try just to cut as deep as you need to. Then pry, chip etc. out the pieces and run the correct size tap in the hole, I borrowed a tap from a local automotive machine shop.

Jeff

Thanks for the help . . . I did exactly what you suggested and cut the remainder of the old quick-connect fitting in half from the inside and then spent a yr and a day (seemed like that) picking & prying away at the pieces. Tomorrow I'll borrow the correct size tap and FINALLY install the new fitting. Guess I'll have to back flush in hopes of removing any thing that fell inside since a magnet will not work. Thanks again!

[Elk1]

Originally Posted by Elbert

I don't know of an easy way to do replace that fitting. I've always though that it was a "piss-poor" design. I removed mine when it broke (like thousands of others), and I installed the old style brass or stain-less type fitting and I also removed "formed" heater hose and went back to using standard heater hose.

I've heard different stories as to why GM went with this type of setup. My "fix" has lasted about 2 years now with no problems. I did wrap the hearter hose with some scrap sections of old heater hose that I split and tie strapped in locations where the hose rubs a bracket. Other than that, I basically reverted back to the old school setup. I don't care for that setup at all.

Thanks for your suggestion . . . I was FINALLY able to remove the old fitting and plan to install another quick connect fitting that I bought at Car Quest last week (about $8) since my formed heater hose with its aluminum slide fitting is in good shape (was able to remove from old quick connect). The new connector is metal and was told that it should last longer . . . original lasted 10 yrs (not bad). Was told by Chev dealer that the reasoning behind GM's use of the quick disconnects is for robotic assemble.

[19malibu70]

I hate running into this problem. You can buy an extractor from Matco tools for this type of GM Problem. These suckers are sometimes tricky to get out.

[Elk1]

Originally Posted by 19malibu70

I hate running into this problem. You can buy an extractor from Matco tools for this type of GM Problem. These suckers are sometimes tricky to get out.

I used an easy out and extractor from Matco which did not work and finally had to cut it in half, fold the remainder on itself and chip away at it, then tapped it and installed new connector (did put sealing compound on connector threads and fitting) . . . so far no leaks.

[Ketch]

Originally Posted by Elk1

...original lasted 10 yrs (not bad). Was told by Chev dealer that the reasoning behind GM's use of the quick disconnects is for robotic assemble.

I went through the same problem after only 60k miles/5 years. If a fitting fails this easily, I'd hate to imaging how a more critical component might fail i.e. a steering control arm.... and I love how the dealer always has a great excuse. Is there a GM "standard excuses for service personnel" manual somewhere?

I think a reason these fail is that pot metal is cheap - it is molded. A stainless or brass fitting is more expensive because it is typically machined and is a higher quality metal.

Pot metal is less conductive. It does not tranmit heat as easily as other more dense metals nor does it conduct voltage as readily. Try picking up the pot metal fitting with a magnet. Perhaps a less heat conductive fitting helps protect the seal and hose from the engine heat. Thats my theory and I"m sticking to it.

IRONICALLY, the replacement fitting I purchased from the dealer was steel. I went to 3 dealers to find one not of the old material. I took a magnet with me to verify.


Given GM's past reputation for using cheap parts, any reason for using these and having such a high rate of failure is suspect.

[scottymcdee]

I broke the same fitting, here's how i fixed it. I went to Autozone and got an older chevrolet coolent fitting from a 60's-70's chevy. (The larger fitting that comes out of the top of the water pump). I think the threads are 5/8-11 or 5/8-18. I then bought the corresponding tap. I left the broken threaded part in the manifold since the ID of the broken piece is real close to the size needed for the tap I bought. WITH DOWN PRESSURE, I was able to thread ID of the broken off piece still in the manifold to the tap size I bought, install the fitting I bought, run my hose and I got heat again. Never leaked since i used Ultra Black on the threads. I'm a machinist by trade, scratched my brain for awhile before I came up with that fix.