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#1
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Hi everyone,
I just want to know if anybody can tell me what could possible be causing my batterylight indicator on my dashboard to light up when I am slowing down and at a complete stop while my foot is on the brakes? |
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#2
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Re: Battery light indicator?
drawing too much power. check alternator first, then battery.. i'd bet your alternator is about to go out. not too hard to replace.
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94 J30-TT (yes! twin turbo!) Slot/Drilled Rotors, TurboXS BOV/Boost Gauge, ECU-Reflash, running 14PSI est 396/hp. 94 J30, REAL CAI W/POPCHARGER, Underdrive Pulley, NGK VPower 1 step cooler plugs, ECU-Reflash, Slotted/Drilled Rotors w/Akebono ProACT pads, Custom FSTB, TRUE HID 5500K w/PROJECTORS. EST HP 259 -This baby sounds mean! |
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#3
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Thanks for the info. I had a mechanic check it out and my alternator is going bad.
You said that it is not too hard to change, could you post some easy-to-follow directions. Thanks, Geoff. |
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#4
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Re: Battery light indicator?
1. take radiator out (2 10mm bolts on top) [2 transmission cooler lines below]
2. loosen the alternator tensioner 1 12mm and loosen the tensioner rod 10mm bolt. 3. remove alternator mounting bolts 2 14mm 4. disconnect electrical wires from back of alternator. install = reverse. should take you a hour to hour 1/2 these cars are fairly easy to work on.
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94 J30-TT (yes! twin turbo!) Slot/Drilled Rotors, TurboXS BOV/Boost Gauge, ECU-Reflash, running 14PSI est 396/hp. 94 J30, REAL CAI W/POPCHARGER, Underdrive Pulley, NGK VPower 1 step cooler plugs, ECU-Reflash, Slotted/Drilled Rotors w/Akebono ProACT pads, Custom FSTB, TRUE HID 5500K w/PROJECTORS. EST HP 259 -This baby sounds mean! |
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#5
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Re: Battery light indicator?
Thanks for the directions. I'm sorry for the long delay in replying but I didn't put the directions to use until today.
On my 93, it only has one bolt at the top (17mm) holding it in place. The tensioner bolt and screw was both 12mm. I found it easier to try to remove the alternator from underneath the car. I couldn't get the top screw out because either it or the where it is screwed into is stripped. Any Ideas. Thanks, Geoff. |
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#6
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Re: Battery light indicator?
a lot of these screws have not been touched in years. i had that happen when i was replacing a water pump. i cut the bolt with a dremmel. you could either use a dremmel or a grinder and cut the bolt off. and reinstall it with a new stanless steel bolt.
Quote:
__________________
94 J30-TT (yes! twin turbo!) Slot/Drilled Rotors, TurboXS BOV/Boost Gauge, ECU-Reflash, running 14PSI est 396/hp. 94 J30, REAL CAI W/POPCHARGER, Underdrive Pulley, NGK VPower 1 step cooler plugs, ECU-Reflash, Slotted/Drilled Rotors w/Akebono ProACT pads, Custom FSTB, TRUE HID 5500K w/PROJECTORS. EST HP 259 -This baby sounds mean! |
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#7
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Re: Battery light indicator?
Drape123,
By any chance, do you know what the bolt size is for the upper Alternator bolt that you replaced. If you know, I need the complete size. Thanks, Geoff. |
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#8
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Hi everyone,
I just put a rebuilt factory Alternator in yesterday and so far so good with the battery light not coming on. The car seems to run slightly better also. For that bolt problem, the bolt was not stripped, it was a little clip that is treaded for the bolt that was out of place when I first unscrewed it. That is why I couldn't screw the bolt back in. Thanks, by-the-way for help with this. I do have on other question/problem. When I first turn on my car after being cold (cold as in not warmed up) I hear some type of noise that is low in sound coming from the engine. When I hear this noise the enigine's idle fluctuates from 3-5000 rpm. The noise sounds like it could be a belt or something of that nature, but it really sounds like something is spining and trying to hard to work. After the car is warmed up every thing is fine. Could that be the timing belt (117000 miles on car) or could it be something with the idle air control or something to do with the air flow? Also, I only hear the noise when the car is in park. Thanks all, Geoff. |
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