1994 dodge shadow 2.2l no spark

[needsnewcar]

ok theres no voltage going to the coil, the coil is good tryed it on a diffent 1994 shadow ( have two of them rofl) timing is ok.

Did this (Locate terminal 19 on your PCM, it's wire color is black/gray; it'll be near the left side of the connector next to last one. Get a paper clip and a jumper wire connect the jumper wire to a good ground, attach a spark tester to one of your spark plug wires and crank the engine. If you see blue sparks then, replace the PCM.)
Before i did this i tryed another pcm.. there was still no spark....

what else can i check..
the fule pump does not kick on either

ty all for your help and time

[mcmalloy]

Originally Posted by needsnewcar

ok theres no voltage going to the coil, the coil is good tryed it on a diffent 1994 shadow ( have two of them rofl) timing is ok.

Did this (Locate terminal 19 on your PCM, it's wire color is black/gray; it'll be near the left side of the connector next to last one. Get a paper clip and a jumper wire connect the jumper wire to a good ground, attach a spark tester to one of your spark plug wires and crank the engine. If you see blue sparks then, replace the PCM.)
Before i did this i tryed another pcm.. there was still no spark....

what else can i check..
the fule pump does not kick on either

ty all for your help and time

sounds like a bad relay .if you give the coil power does it start?

[needsnewcar]

Originally Posted by mcmalloy

sounds like a bad relay .if you give the coil power does it start?

No car didnt start when i gave the coil power and the relay was good. It was a red wire that was going to the relay, was broke (only holding on by 4 strains)... the funny thing before i found the break in the wire the day time running thing burned out. And when i the fixed the red wire car started, then the wires going to the fule injeters burend out. Fixs thoses wires and no problems now.

thanks mcmalloy for your reply

[xtreme25t]

I've delt with that problem with every Shadow I own. As a matter of fact, that's why i was able to buy them so cheap. it's always one of two things that causes this problem. One of which is the "hall effect pick-up coil" located under the distributor cap. (plastic disc with thin x3 wire coming off it. Sometimes the wire gets pinched and cuts off the signal between the distributor to the PC causing the "auto-shutdown" relay to activate. This relay cuts off the spark and the fuel in order to keep you from flooding the engine during a 'no spark" condition. Replace that coil and it should start after unplugging the battery for 3minutes. If it doesn't start then most likely your problem is the cheesy plug on the fuel pump sending unit. wiggle it while the key is in the 'run' position and you should hear the pump kick on for 3 sec.

behind the pc is the relay for the fuel pump. the chilton book doesn't tell you that. it has a 12 g blue wire, a double green wire, and i believe a red w/white strip wire. Put a jumper wire from the (+) bat terminal to the double green. you'll be forcing power to the pump. if it doesn't run, your problem is in the connection at the tank.

The wires run down the drivers side of the vehicle and they cross under the back seat to a rubber grommet. If yours has a sunroof, there's a good chance that the wires are corroded. If there is a problem with the fuel, the "auto shutdown" relay will cut the spark off as described above.

Hall-effect pick up coil
connection @ the sending unit