Wierd Problem, I got to get it fixed 89 CV

[bruzer321]

1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX, 184K, 5.0L 302: I was driving home one day on the highway about 15 mins at 70mph I took the exit and a block away from my house I turned on the high beams and the engine cut out. I stopped on a side street and messed around with it and if I have my headlights ON and my High Beams held on after it clicks in the on position the car will be able to turn on. If i dont do that I have no power to my fuel pump/distributer/Injectors etc. I swapped out my (MFS) Multi-Function Switch with another 89 CV and still the same problem in my car but not in the other one so that cancels the MFS out. I also swapped out the Ignition Switch and that didnt do anything. I am getting no power. Please Help

[240spoke]

Hey Bruzer what did you ever find with this problem? I have a friends car in the shop doing the same kinda thing.....The check engine light will flash and the car will shut down some times...I put a timing light on it and sat there while it was running and it did it..Its losing fire but the red wire on the coil stays "hot"....I put a ignition module on it and same thing....Does it worse with the headlights on...I checked the ign switch for burnt wires and all the grounds I could find under the hood... I did find a yellow wire in a harness under the hood near the fuel pump relay the was brown not burnt..I cut the wire and soldered a wire around the connector... Anybody have any ideas.... Its getting 14.6 volts running at idle..Kinda high?

Thanks MATT

[bruzer321]

Yes, I got it fixed, but in my case it was that yellow wire you were talking about, the pin in the conector burnt, and i soldered in a new wire around it, but my car did not run unless I held the high beam switch in "the sweet spot". From what you are saying it sounds like something with the EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) its the white sensor held on with three nuts onto the EGR Valve, I took that out and cleaned it up with carb cleaner and electronic cleaner, then I took the EGR Valve out and cleaned that with carb cleaner, I know it is bad for the diaphram but I sprayed just a little bit of silicone spray on the diaphram and I got lucky and my car runs smooth and check engine light stays off. Another thing common with these cars is the harness connector at the alternator burns up, but 14.6 does not sound abnormal to me, as long as it is under 15 Volts I wouldn't worry about it. Let me know how things go, I have two of these cars and I have fixed many others, I will help

[240spoke]

Hey thanks for the quick response ...I have seen the evp deal before..This is crazier than that.... The headlights being on make it happen more..That's why i was looking for burnt wires around connectors and the ign switch...The car wont run with that white plug with the yellow wire in it unplugged....There is really no rime or reason to why it happens It does do it more when HOT ... I think tomorrow after work ill fire it up and hook a noid light to the #1 injector to see if the computer shuts down....Is there a relay that sends power to the computer? I tapped on all the relays over there near the fuel pump relay and It didnt act up... Is it possible that the computer has an issue?...I think ive only changed 1 "bad" computer on a FORD in all my years of working on cars...The wiring from the alt has been changed...Looks like they did a good job...Do you know what color wire feeds the computer and a pin location?...Ill back probe it and wait till it goes crazy to see if Im losing power.....Thanks MATT

[240spoke]

Just an update here ..I changed the ignition switch and the eec relay and It still did it..I went to Pull a Part today and got a computer and installed it and havent had a problem YET..However the car has gone a few days and not did it..Ill let yall know...Looking at most threads here not many people report when and what it took to fix the problems....See Me MATT