poor katrina struck '72 XR-7

[breaknstuf4fun]

a family friend of mine owned a 1972 Cougar XR-7 near a little place we call lake view if any of you live in N.O.L.A. you know where i mean...
but for the rest of you who don't. The poor baby got left there because well, they had to get out through the roof when the water started coming in. WELL ...they're fine, but our poor Elsie (the XR-7, yeah it's sad we already named her) took 8 feet of water. We realise that almost probably definitely we should drain the whole girl, but will that really do waht we want. (FYI she's both my friend's and my car now they gave her to us becuse the owner coudln't take fix her himself). SO YEAH
what shoudl we do to the car when it's been under 8ft. of water and it's been 3-4 months since it's seen care. we want the body for sure, we realise porabbly lots of trouble. SO we jsut want to know..WHERE should we start. THANKS for any help you give. latta.

(i know it's also sad proabbly that i constatnly reffer to my car as a wamon, but i love it now and forever...at least SHE wont cheat on me ^.^)

[MagicRat]

Realistically, the car is probably now just good for some parts. It would normally cost much more to restore the car than it would cost to buy another one.

You can save her, but it's only if you would want to undertake this as a hobby/project. You pretty much have to inspect, clean up and possibly repair every system/component on the car.

The work as I have shown here will inspect the most expensive components first, to see if they are saveable. Obviously, if the engine is seized, or if the transmission is a mass of rusty parts, the car simply is beyond hope, so its important to check them out first before cleaning up the interior etc.

The first thing is to see if the salt water has seized the engine.
Remove the spark plugs and pour some WD-40 or auto transmision fluid down the cylinder and let it soak for a couple of days. This might free up rusty cylinder walls and piston rings.
Drain the crank case.
Put a big socket and breaker bar on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft and see if the engine will rotate, by hand. If it simply will not budge, the engine is seized, and would need a rebuild.
If it will move, consider yourself lucky.
Change the oil filter and fill the crank case with 5 quarts of new oil.
Remove the distributor body.
If you look down the hole, you can see the top of the oil pump driveshaft. You can use a tiny socket (1/4 inch, I think) and rotate the shaft clockwise, as fast as you can by hand, or use an electric drill. This will spin the drivehaft and force clean oil through all the oil galleries.
Then put the distributor back in and re-time the ignition system.
Rotate the crankshaft over by hand about a dozen times. Make sure it spins relatively freely.
Then hook up a fresh battery. If the steering column is okay, use the key to spin the starter motor over, with the spark plugs out.
If it spins okay, then get a carb rebuild kit, remove the carb, clean it out and rebuild it. eplace the fluid in the power steering resivoir.
Remove the power steering return line and flush the system with clean ps fluid.
Drop the gas tank, clean it out and flush all the gas lines and fuel pump, and change the fuel filter.
Remove the transmission pan and drain all the fluid, and change the filter.
Remove the torque converter aceess plate and look for a torque converter drain bolt and drain the converter. It may or may not have one. You may have to rotate the crankshaft and converter to take a good look. Fill the trans with the appropriate amount of fresh fluid.
Remove the distroibutor cap and rotor and clean them up. Remove one of the transmission fluid cooler lines at the radiator.
Give the engine fresh gas and see if it will start and run. As you do this, the trans will pump old fluid out the line. Keep an eye on the trans fluid level and add fluid until it comes out the line looking clean and fresh.
Then take off all the wheels and inspect the brakes, Clean them up, lubricate the moving parts and replace any parts that look too rusty or dirty.
Remove the front rotors and repack the bearings.
Drain the fluid from the rear differential and change it.
Unbolt and pull out both rear axle shafts just enough to inspect the rear outer axle bearings. Replace the grease if it looks contaminated. Replace the bearings if they look too rusty/dirty.
Grease all the grease fittings on the front suspension and u-joints.
Take the interior apart, all the seats, panels, carpets etc. Remove them all from the car.
You may be able to save them with soft scrub brushes, soapy water, lots of clean water from a garden hose and lots of time.
If not, an upholstery shop will have to re-do them.
Chances are the headliner is toast and will need professional upholstery.
Rinse out the bare inside sheetmetal, and the entire underneath, too.
As for the electrics, your car has little or no electronics. The radio will be shot, but the simple elecrics in the dash etc may be saveable. You will have to take the dash apart, and rinse off the parts, and driy them. Keep an eye out for severe corrosion, etc.
As you put it back together, you will have to trouble-shoot the electrics to see what works, or can be make to work with cleaning, and what needs repalcement.

Next, are lots of other systems that will need revies and trouble shooting, like power windows, wipers, light fixtures etc. Time and attention is required to review the car from bumper to bumper.

[breaknstuf4fun]

a note about the car>

it was in perfect...well..near perfect working order before the storm, all new tires 3 weeks before the storm and a refurbished automotic transmission 2 weeks beofre the storm

does that make a diff, and how big if so? It was regularly oiled too this guy loved his car, i woudl htink that would have helped kept lots of the internal parts from being (as my friend put's it) fucked up. but more like extremely rusted to put it how i wanted it hehe, anyway.

does that make a diff at all?

[MagicRat]

The most serious problems are salt water flooding then sitting on internal engine and trans components for weeks/months.

These internal components are bare metal, and are somewhat oily from use. A couple of days of salty water may not hurt them too much, but all bets are off if its been a couple of months. Also, if the parts are new or 34 years old, the damage will be the same.

[breaknstuf4fun]

Well i'm happy to say the crankshaft does turn, we're getting the oil and filters and spinning the oil pump tomorrow. Thanks for all the help magicrat.

and by the way, what do you think our chances are of getting this thing really running. This is our first project ever.

any bets?
and any more info? anyone?

[MagicRat]

Originally Posted by breaknstuf4fun

and by the way, what do you think our chances are of getting this thing really running. This is our first project ever.

IMO a flooded car is easier to fix than a severely rusted car, or one that has been left to rot outside for a long time - and people fix those all the time.

IMO you will fix this thing, provided you have the will to do so.
BTW post some pics!!

[breaknstuf4fun]

i will as soon as i can get this damn scanner to work and i get my pics back from my friend

bastard left me and the project for a family trip to disney world

[sgmurder]

Well, Katrina got me too, flooding my Lincoln and my Toyota. I live out here in Metairie, we didnt get it as bad as Lakeview, but i feel your pain.

The point is, take the time to repair the cougar. you can bring the car back t
to its original glory. let me know if you need anything.

Scott

[breaknstuf4fun]

well i had a reply all typed out for an update but my login got screwed up and it disappeared when i tried to post so...dang

due to money and school i haven't been able to continue work on my project on my cougar for a good while...acutally not until yesterday. got the paint striper, grinding materials, rust converter and such, and have hafl a fender done as of tonight. whoopie...now all i have left is an entire car. but atleast my passion for the project is building back up again.

I need to know a few bits of info from those who know the cross overs of the mustang and cougar. can i buy a replacement '72 mustang floor board and use it as a replace ment in my '72 cougar?

and does anybody know where i can find that oh so rare tri-power intake for the 351 cleveland?

I'd also liek to thank you guys for all the encouragement you've given me. despite lots of the negativity i've gotten from parents and friends i'm still pushing on with a thick skull with this project.