whats wrong with my car

[25thTransAm]

I read a stock 1994 Trans Am runs 13.7 1/4 mile. My Trans Am has a Granatelli mas airflow sensor, air intake with a k&n air filter, aluminum driveshaft and ran 14.4. I gunned the shit out of it too!!

[Nicholas1979]

I don't post much, but I watch theese boards alot, I'm no expert, but some guesses from me would be the first, which is practice... how many times did you run? in the process of gunning the shit out if it, did you spin the tires?

also about the car... auto? manual? rear end gears?

[CreepingDeath94]

I don't think that a stock '94 T/A runs a 13.7 unless possibly with a professional driver and a 6 speed. My '94 ran a 14.4 with a shift kit auto. and decent tires...and my reaction time is pretty good...

[Darrensls1]

Originally Posted by 25thTransAm

I read a stock 1994 Trans Am runs 13.7 1/4 mile. My Trans Am has a Granatelli mas airflow sensor, air intake with a k&n air filter, aluminum driveshaft and ran 14.4. I gunned the shit out of it too!!

94 Trans Ams do not run 13.7 in the quarter mile. Yes it has happened but like creapingdeath said it would take a M6, low elevation, good weather and a great driver. In other words that is the absolute best scenerio. On average the LT1's run the quarter in 14.0-14.4 when in stock trim. As long as your in there and under a 2.2 60' then you are in the "normal" range.

But as your launch, shifting (if applicable) and weather improves then so will your ET. I bet with practice you can break into the 13's under good conditions. You need to hit 1.9 - 2.0 60' to get the real good ET's. Hard to do on street tires but it's definately possible on well prepped tracks. You could always put some Nitto 555R drag radials in the back and heat em up good. That'll get your 60' time down nicely

Good luck

[1FASTws6]

13.7 in a 94???? wow. My 98 M6 is said to run somewhere in the 13.3 13.2 ballpark with great drivers.

[Darrensls1]

Originally Posted by 1FASTws6

13.7 in a 94???? wow. My 98 M6 is said to run somewhere in the 13.3 13.2 ballpark with great drivers.

94 = LT1 motor

98 = LS1 motor

You can't compare the two. LT1's usually run low 14's and LS1's usually run mid 13's. Those are "normal" times. Great drivers, tracks and weather can get LT1's into the 13's stock. Likewise, LS1's have hit high 12's under premium conditions.

[FormulaForce]

There's a ton of factors that can affect a car's 1/4 time. Tires, type of transmission, weather, track surface, rear axle ratios, weight (driver, fuel, junk in the trunk), and of course the driver's skills. According to Hot Rod Magazine, a typical car with an automatic transmission will lose about 18% of it's horsepower in the driveline. Manuals only lose about 9%. When manufacturers list performance specs for their cars, you can bet they're tested under optimum conditions: cool weather, lightweight driver, test track, about 1/2 a gallon of fuel, etc. Now put that same car in heavy traffic, during a hot summer, with a full tank of gas, spare tire, jack, and other stuff. Add your average driver, and your performance won't be anywhere near what is claimed for that type of car.

[1FASTws6]

true.... but the car is capable of hitting those numbers. Fact is exactly like u said u cant do to all those factors.

[Darrensls1]

Originally Posted by FormulaForce

According to Hot Rod Magazine, a typical car with an automatic transmission will lose about 18% of it's horsepower in the driveline. Manuals only lose about 9%.

I don't know about thier idea of a typical car but those numbers are a bit off for LS1 F-bodies. T56 manuals lose around 15% and the 4L60E auto is known for about a 20% drivetrain loss. But I know some M6 guys who wish they only lost 9% of thier FWHP to the wheels

[The Right Formula]

Originally Posted by 25thTransAm

I read a stock 1994 Trans Am runs 13.7 1/4 mile. My Trans Am has a Granatelli mas airflow sensor, air intake with a k&n air filter, aluminum driveshaft and ran 14.4. I gunned the shit out of it too!!

This might sound off the wall, but why fiddle with the MAF? Take it off, toss on the stock, get a tune, make another run.

--Jay

[tuske427]

Jay is right. With the mods you have- you shouldn't need the granatelli yet. With my past 1995 T/A I had AFR heads, slp exhaust (headers and catback), gutted cat, 3:73 gears, reduced crank pulley, hypertech power programmer, fabricated cold air intake w/ K&N filter, 1le intake, ls1 driveshaft, aftermarket lca and WS-6 suspension, etc. when I installed the granateli my car felt slower off the line. I had a stock bottom end so I'd never spin my engine high enough to see the need for it.

the thing about those is they are designed for engines that require a much higher air intake such as with a supercharger or stroked engine.

You'd be better off installing the stock one back on, and concentrating on other mods first, like exhaust and gears. Your engine still needs the air velocity the stock maf provides.

You'll probably notice an increase of torque on the bottom end if you do.

Good luck!

[The Right Formula]

Originally Posted by tuske427

Jay is right. With the mods you have- you shouldn't need the granatelli yet.

the thing about those is they are designed for engines that require a much higher air intake such as with a supercharger or stroked engine.

You'd be better off installing the stock one back on, and concentrating on other mods first, like exhaust and gears. Your engine still needs the air velocity the stock maf provides.

You'll probably notice an increase of torque on the bottom end if you do.

Good luck!

True, true! Not ~everyone~ (but definately the vast majority) experience problems with idle, spark advance, torque, etc. with aftermarket MAF's on virtually stock (ie - stock internals) setups.

Headers, exhaust, CAI (even an airlid) will allow a lot more air to flow through the engine than the factory stuff, all without major problems occuring (you should always get a tune after doing headers though to recalibrate the A/F mix).

If you still want a nice boost, I stongly suggest a ported TB as well as a smoother bellows (tubing from the back of the airbox/lid to the TB (and yes, the $3.99 Fernco from Home Depot works just as well, if not better, than the $50.00+ versions from SLP, TSP, etc.)

I love the sound of the LT1's when they're done up right. Just make it so it has plenty of bite to go along with it's bark. No disrespect, but get that MAF off and build from the ground up, lay all the basework and let the car adapt before before going for the bigger stuff.

((And it should be common knowledge, but NEVER de-screen the stock MAF either - you'll get the same sluggishness as with the aftermarket.))

--Jay

[FormulaForce]

You guys may be right about the MAF. My Granatelli just failed, and I put the stock one back on. The car feels pretty fast with the stock. I had gone ahead and ordered a new Granatelli MAF, one of the new ones that's programmed for a cold-air pickup, unlike the old one. Once it gets here, I'll try to compare the two with some G-tech metered runs.
Should know within 10 days which is better. Mine is an LT-1, don't know what an LS-1 MAF is like. I also got my carbon driveshaft and will let you know how that does as well.

Here's my miami f-body jingle:

"I like drivin' like Miami Vice,
No slippin' and slidin' cuz there ain't no ice,
Up I-95 and back down the 'Pike,
All winter long I'll be cookin' Rice!"

Ps: Randell, stay out of our forum, it's not for losers like you.