rear brakes, 98 WS

brinkz · #1 12-21-2005, 05:54 PM

Well the time has come for me to attempt changing the rear shoes on my Winnie...Since my passenger side drum has locked up about half a dozen times trying to back out of my drivewayand it's been a million miles, since they have been changed. Armed with a wrench and a big hammer, i will try my luck with this. I have all new parts,....minus new drums(hopefully they will be good.) Well I have never done drums before, lots of experience with rotors, so any up front advice would be great. I have my Haynes, and it seems like a fairly simple job. Wish me luck.
Here I go...

DRW1000 · #2 12-21-2005, 06:16 PM

You might have to back off the shoes prior to removal of the drums.

The job is fairly straightforward. I would recommend doing one side at a time so you can use the other for reference if necessary. If you have the proper tools it can go even smoother.

Ensure that the wheel cylinders are not leaking.

12Ounce · #3 12-21-2005, 06:53 PM

After removing the drums, spray everything down with brake cleaner ... and then take some digital shots before further disassembly.

LeSabre97mint · #4 12-21-2005, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRW1000

You might have to back off the shoes prior to removal of the drums.

The job is fairly straightforward. I would recommend doing one side at a time so you can use the other for reference if necessary. If you have the proper tools it can go even smoother.

Ensure that the wheel cylinders are not leaking.

Hello

Backing off the shoes is done from the back side through a oval hole that is pluged with a rubber plug. You need two items to back off the adjuster. One tool (2 small screw drivers works well for this) to move the adjuster levor away from the star wheel and the other one to move the wheel. I can't remember which way to turn the wheel. One way it will get looser.

I did this job twice last summer. The first time I didn't replace the wheel cylinders and they started leaking. I had to get new shoes along with cylinders. I would also bleed the braks to renew the fluid in the system even if you don't open up the system.

Regards

Dan

brinkz · #5 12-21-2005, 07:27 PM

ok sounds good....I have new cylinders to change on spec. Figured what the hey. Everything is apart might as well. As for the grease that is supposed to be applied, is there any alternatives, such as just synthetic grease....how high of a temp rating should it have. I have found a couple tubes of brake lub here in Canada, but they are pretty expensive for the amount that comes in it. Any thoughts?

wiswind · #6 12-21-2005, 08:26 PM

I used a very little amound of brake caliper grease.... 1 little packet goes a LONG way.

If you did not pick it up yet....I would get a drum brake hardware kit. It will give you all new springs and clips.....cheap...and very good to do.

I did a complete brake job (did not change the cylinders) on my '96. I posted pictures that include
all the parts at
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

brinkz · #7 12-21-2005, 08:33 PM

actually i thought i had all the parts till i looked at your pics, wis, a couple days ago, as soon as i saw your picture show, i went back to Carquest, and bought a kit. So the only thing on this job, that i am not planning on replacing is the drums themselves. That is I am not planning on changing them, dosent mean i wont end up chaning them ;P

brinkz · #8 12-24-2005, 05:23 PM

well I must say...glad i did them when i did. Did the drivers side first, no problems. Then to the passenger side...WOW. Started out by me removing the drum, and voila, half of the brake shoe came off at the same time. It was horrible, half of one shoe was broke in half. Luckly there was no damage to the drum, strange...Next off, the adjuster, well lets just say the last time it adjusted anything was the amount of rust and crap build up on it. SEIZED. Next Goto to re-assemble everything, and the aft side of the brake cylinder is seized too. Well after a bit a heat i managed to get the brake line off without it breaking. Luck is all you need. And a good torch. Well everything is back together now, and it's all good. Thanks for all your advice, and all the other posts pertaining to this topic. Merry Christmas, and happy holidays.

wiswind · #9 12-25-2005, 09:38 AM

Just reading through some TSB's on Alldata.
TSB# 98-5A-13 states that "Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compond" is to be used.
FORD Specification ESE-M1C171-A for Disk brakes and Drum brakes whenever lubricant is to be used.

They do NOT want Petroleum based lubricants to be used as they can cause the EPDM rubber to swell.

phil-l · #10 12-25-2005, 11:23 AM

Yes, use care with grease anywhere near brake components. Note that for drum brakes, there are several small, flat areas on the backing plate where the edge of the shoe frame rides - and moves when the brakes are applied. A small dab of grease helps smooth brake action.

I had both a wheel cylinder (just one end of it!) and an adjuster seize up on my Windstar. Both were straightforward jobs. Most annoying part: Removing the drum is very difficult when the adjuster can't be released. It took quite a bit of effort. The seized wheel cylinder end was a reminder that bleeding brakes should be a regular part of vehicle maintenance.

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