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  #1  
Old 12-13-2005, 09:18 PM
Michael Cramer Michael Cramer is offline
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2000 F-250 7.3L no start

I am working on a 2000 F-250 7.3L and it won't start. There are no trouble codes. There is an RPM signal when cranking 115-135RPM's. I tried a good cam sensor just in case still won't start. I do not have a gauge to read the high pressure oil psi. I have checked the filter for fuel and it is full. When I cycle the key on the lift pump is providing fuel to the filter. I have ohmed the glow plugs all of them are 1.2 to 1.3 ohms. The glow plug relay does energize and provide 12V to the plugs. My question is. Is there a way to test the high pressure oil pump without a gauge. I have taken the test plug off the right head and cranked the veh, should oil shoot out with force or just run out. Is there a way to test the high pressure oil regulator.


When cranking the veh. I see the high pressure oil pressure sensor read 3000 psi. I disconnected sensor and attempted to start thinking a faulty sensor may cause the regulator to dump to much high pressure, no luck however. I checked for power and ground a high pressure regulator found 12V and ground. I can't find anything that will let me actuat this solenoid with the modis scanner any ideas on how to do this or other things to check would help thanks

Last edited by Michael Cramer; 12-15-2005 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:13 PM
dougger222 dougger222 is offline
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Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

Is your wait to start light comming on and have you checked all your fuses both inside the cab and under the hood?

I just had a situation with my 99 diesel were the wait to start light wouldn't come. Found the 30 amp fuse in the cab was blowing due to a shorted fuel filter heater element.

My diesel mehanic who works on Isuzu's and International vehicles for a living says he's never touched a glow plug on a 99 or newer Powerstroke. He's replaced hundreds on the pre Powerstroke motors though.

Have you tried www.thedieselstop.com?
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Old 12-18-2005, 09:40 AM
Michael Cramer Michael Cramer is offline
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Re: Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougger222
Is your wait to start light comming on and have you checked all your fuses both inside the cab and under the hood?

I just had a situation with my 99 diesel were the wait to start light wouldn't come. Found the 30 amp fuse in the cab was blowing due to a shorted fuel filter heater element.

My diesel mehanic who works on Isuzu's and International vehicles for a living says he's never touched a glow plug on a 99 or newer Powerstroke. He's replaced hundreds on the pre Powerstroke motors though.

Have you tried www.thedieselstop.com?

The wait to start light does come on and the glow plug relay does work. I will check the fuses again. I have not checked the fuel heater or looked at www.thedieselstop.com. Thank you
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Old 12-18-2005, 11:12 AM
dougger222 dougger222 is offline
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Re: Re: Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Cramer
The wait to start light does come on and the glow plug relay does work. I will check the fuses again. I have not checked the fuel heater or looked at www.thedieselstop.com. Thank you
TDS, is the place to go for questions with a Ford diesel vehicle.

Just unlpug the connector under the fuel filter assembly to see if the truck fires over without it. All week I've been running without the fuel warmer and the truck has started ok.

Good Luck!!!
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2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 Powerstroke auto
1989 Shelby CSX-VNT #339 of 500 all original with Recaros
1986 Shelby GLHS #284 of 500 restored to original
1965 Ford Mustang 289 V8 pony interior 4brl carb
Cars sold or parted out in a 3 month period,
2-85 GLHT's, 2-88 Shelby Z's, 87 Shelby Z, 88 Lancer Shelby, 2 85 Shelby Chargers, 89 Shelby Daytona
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:08 PM
Escorts4ever Escorts4ever is offline
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Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

I had a 2000 F350 a few years ago witht eh same situation as yours. After spending a lot of time on it with no gain I unplugged the egr pressure sensor that was located just in front of the high pressure pump, I can't remember if it was just to the left or right, but it was a 2 wirn connector. Come to find out the sensor was no good and there was no v-ref to the engine. After unplugging it the engine started instantly. I plugged it back in and tried it again...no start. Replaced the sensor and it was golden. Don't know if this will help, but you never can tell.
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:24 PM
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Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

Escorts,

NO "Powerstroke" engine prior to the "6.0L" has an EGR valve, or EGR sensor.

Michael,

Since you are seeing 3000 psi + on you scan tool, the Injection control presure sensor is suspect. It is impossible to have much over 1000 psi while cranking. If the ECM *thinks* it has 3000 psi, it will keep the valve OPEN, dumping 90% or more of the high presure oil from the pump, preventing the engine from starting.

To test this theory, find which wire to the IPR valve is "+12V", and connect a ground wire to the other by carefully back probing the harness connector. You can leave it this was for NO MORE than 2 minutes! Then try to start it. If it starts, the ICP sensor is bad. Another way to check it, is to look at the ICP pressure with the engine off, key on. It should read under 50 psi. If not, replace the SENSOR.
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Old 12-18-2005, 02:04 PM
Escorts4ever Escorts4ever is offline
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Re: Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

You are right, and I did say it has been a few years too. I stand corrected.
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Old 01-01-2006, 10:31 PM
Michael Cramer Michael Cramer is offline
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Re: Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

Quote:
Originally Posted by ModMech
Escorts,

NO "Powerstroke" engine prior to the "6.0L" has an EGR valve, or EGR sensor.

Michael,

Since you are seeing 3000 psi + on you scan tool, the Injection control presure sensor is suspect. It is impossible to have much over 1000 psi while cranking. If the ECM *thinks* it has 3000 psi, it will keep the valve OPEN, dumping 90% or more of the high presure oil from the pump, preventing the engine from starting.

To test this theory, find which wire to the IPR valve is "+12V", and connect a ground wire to the other by carefully back probing the harness connector. You can leave it this was for NO MORE than 2 minutes! Then try to start it. If it starts, the ICP sensor is bad. Another way to check it, is to look at the ICP pressure with the engine off, key on. It should read under 50 psi. If not, replace the SENSOR.
Thank you for the reply sorry it's been so long for mine. I had suspected the same thing so I unplugged the ICP sensor to see if that would help. I know the truck will run without it plugged in, I've tried it on another veh. same year and engine. The test veh runs crappy without it the problem veh. will not start. Just for my knowlege I tested the high pressure oil with a manual gauge and it pegged the needle of a 1000psi gauge with the ICP sensor plugged in. A friend of the shop who is a ford dealer diesel tech also looked at the veh with me and says it needs injectors. There is fuel in the filter housing and I cracked the return line to the filter and found fuel pressure there also. I would like your input on the injector diagnosis. It's a scary answer to hear with the cost of 8 injectors. It's not hard for the ford guys to try this under warranty but with a customer paying out of his pocket being wrong can cost us. Thank you.
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Old 03-12-2006, 05:30 PM
EKJ EKJ is offline
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Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

I have exp. that problem on several econolines with powerstroke and the triggermodule for the injectors are the usual problem on these. Not always i get an fault code.
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Old 03-12-2006, 08:33 PM
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ModMech ModMech is offline
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Re: 2000 F-250 7.3L no start

Michael,

I can garantee you that you DO NOT need "8 new injectors". I would RUN from any shop that wants to replace more than one, or MAYBE 2 at a time.

From your added descriptions, I would agree with the person that thinks that the injector module (called the Injector Drive Module, or IDM) is bad. Unfortunately, there is only one way to test this, and you NEED a "brake out box" to do it. Basically you test for voltage and ground to the injectors. The injectors use 115V so DO NOT attempt to test this w/o the brake out box and proper meter.
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