steering wander problem - HELP!

[kaspr]

I just replaced all four struts, springs, strut mounts, and a few other miscellaneous suspension parts. After getting the car back from its alignment from the shop, it has severe steering issues:

When driving down the road straight, there's no problem; when making slight turns, there's no problem. This problem shows up when turning left and accelerating. When I start turning left, everything is as normal until I get to a certain angle, then the steering "jumps" farther to the left making the car turn much sharper. When turning right this hardly happens at all. The other situation is while accelerating. When I step on it, I'm holding the steering wheel straight, but the car "jumps" to the left just like how it "jumps" left while progressively turning the wheel farther left in a left turn. In order to keep the car straight while accelerating I have to turn the wheel right a little bit. When I let off the gas, and when the RPM's reach about to the idle speed (when load is off the tranny and driveaxle), the steering jumps back to its original spot of straight ahead, no longer turning left. So this problem seems to have something to do with engine load, but I can put it in neutral while coasting at 60 mph, and turn left, and the same thing happens, so it tells me it's not related to a such thing as tranny mount or such.
Could it be tie rods (outer or inner), ball joint, steering gear? My Haynes manual says steering wander can be caused by worn steering gear clamp bushings or a worn steering gear, but this problem started happening right now, never before. One note is that they replaced the left tie rod end, and it appears the left side is where the problem is.

Please offer your thoughts and suggestions. By the way, it appears the Sensatracs are working well.

[HotZ28]

Did you replace the upper strut mount bearings? What is usually referred to as "torque steer" is when accelerating under load, the car tends to pull to the right instead of left. It sounds like you have a bind, in either the upper strut bearing, or the tie rod end on the left side. If it was the rack or ball joints, it would have shown up before the strut replacement.

[kaspr]

Thank you HotZ28. Yes, I did replace the upper strut bearings, and made sure that was installed correctly. What is "a bind" in the tie rod end on the left side? Is there any chance that I wrecked the ball joint during strut replacement, or the rack or inner tie rod during the replacement of the tie rod end? It couldn't be anything to do with a CV joint, right? Like if that was damaged while changing struts. There's no clicking sound. And by the way, when the car is parked, the wheels turn left to right and back with no obstruction. When parked, it works well.

[wrightz28]

I was wondering about the cv joints, as if the one side is not secured correctly to the transaxle or knuckle?

[kaspr]

The CV joints are secured well on both sides. The issue would be if they were damaged by bending them the wrong way while the strut was off and the steering knuckle was not secured. I tried to keep it supported with a bungy cord, but maybe I didn't do a good enough job?

I did more inspecting, and don't think it's a ball joint or outer tie rod end. It must be the inner tie rod, steering gear, or something weird. Any thoughts?

[HotZ28]

In the Engineering vocabulary, we described “bind” or “binding” as something that becomes stiff or stuck or unable to move freely. (Refers to mechanical parts) * The brakes are binding.

I was referring to the inner tie rod or outer tie rod as possibly having a "bind" in them.
I don't see how you could damage the CV joint or ball joint installing struts!
Take it back to the alignment shop and explain to them what it is doing, and see if they have a solution. It could just be a maladjustment or oversight on their part.

[kaspr]

I just talked to the guy at the shop, and he said that while the other mechanic was test-driving it after the alignment, he heard a loud clunk in the front, but couldn't identify exactly where it came from. That changes things alot to know there was a clunk. The mechanic said he thinks its something to do with the drivetrain, like a mount or CV problem, but I'm not so sure about that because I can feel some looseness in the steering wheel when straight ahead, but as you move it off-center, it "jolts the car", and that even when you're not applying torque with the engine. It's scheduled for him to look at it next Tuesday, so I'll let you know what he says, but any thoughts are welcome, please.

[Cntrysthbst]

This is just to funny! Identical problem, except I replaced the anti-sway bushings and end links, new tie rods on both sides, new motor mount, brakes are new, and the sub-frame bushings! I have that same clunk in the front, and binding on the left turns. After 2 shops and no luck on why this problem is happening after I replaced all these parts - I went staight to the dealer. I was told my rack is bad, worn out internally! In the rack they said something about a spring load that holds two bars together that have teeth in them or something like that, is bad. I can't remember everything cause half of it was in a lauguage I couldn't understand. They pulled the boot up from the top of the rack to show me the play in the steering shaft and that was enough for me to somewhat believe they are possibly right. So, here I sit wondering --- should I replace the rack or not? More imput on this thread would be great!

HotZ28 - HELP! Does this sound possible? Thanks! Rob

[maxwedge]

If you disconnect both tie rods from the strut/knuckle you can turn the wheels independent of the rack this will check the strut bearings for binding, if all feels well doing this the rack is probably the problem, I have the same problem with my Lumina, which had a rack recall for similar symptoms.

[HotZ28]

Read all the tech tips and flush proceedures in the attached link and I will get back with you if you have questions. Rob, it does sound like you may have a bad bearing on the input shaft. I've got to run, see ya later.
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/...es/default.asp

[kaspr]

It turns out they found that both ball joints are bad. Hopefully that's what the problem was. They won't have time to work on it until next week, so I'm going to do it myself. Any suggestions?

[HotZ28]

Worn ball joints would explain a "clunk" type noise in the front. It looks like the alignment shop would have noticed that during the alignment! If the joints were worn that bad, I don't see how they did a correct alignment in the first place. I would confront them with that and request another alignment free of charge!

If you replace them, they may not want to do another alignment under warranty, either way, it will have to be realigned after the ball joints are installed. Ball joint replacement on the PA's is not that complicated, especially if they have been replaced previously and used bolts to replace the rivets holding the joint mount in place. If you replaced the struts, the ball joints are a "walk in the park" compared to the strut install. You should have no problem. Be sure to use TRW or Moog brand in lieu of some cheaper unit that will fail sooner! Have fun!

[kaspr]

Thanks, HotZ28. I'll tackle the project hopefully tonight and let you know how it went. The guy at the shop did say to bring it in after I change the ball joints, and they'll check the alignment, so I take it that it will be free of charge, and if not, I'll bring up your point. Thanks.