Car turns off while driving

luarg2 · #1 12-08-2005, 01:41 PM

This happened Three times yesterday. The first time i just started the car and about 2 minutes into driving I hit a small bump and it cut off and in the message center the battery light came on, I put it in park started it drove about 4 blocks and it cut off again, the battery light came back on, well I started it and drove to the nearest Autozone where I had them test my battery and alternator. The alternator was fine but the battery wasn't holding a good charge. The third time was later on in the day as I was driving the car it a bump in the road and in the message center the security light came flashing on and off (like it wanted to stay on but there wasn't enought power) and then the car cut off again, the battery light had came on as well. I have noticed that this has happened with the car still cold and after it reaches operating temp it doesn't happen. I also live in Wisconsin where the outside temp is like zero degrees, could this be weather related? Has anyone else encountered the same issue?

phewop118 · #2 12-09-2005, 12:27 AM

Many v6 GM engines have crankshaft position sensors that go bad and cause the car to stall quite often. See if it throws a code and find out what it is telling you. Sometimes, though, the sensor won't throw a code - have it checked out.

luarg2 · #3 12-09-2005, 02:12 PM

*update*

Yesterday it did it 5 times while driving and today once so far. Could this possibly be a fuel problem because after it turns off and i start it again the car takes longer than normal to start (it usually turns over right away) The day this all began when i went to start my car that morning it started but was shaking un-controllibly because i was out of gas from driving the other night (gas guage broken) and it didn't help it was 2 degrees out. I put gas in and it started just fine. engine light came on saying it was multiple cylinder mis-fire, so it was my gas. But could i have broken my fuel pump or fuel injector? Any ideas?

BNaylor · #4 12-09-2005, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luarg2

*update*

Yesterday it did it 5 times while driving and today once so far. Could this possibly be a fuel problem because after it turns off and i start it again the car takes longer than normal to start (it usually turns over right away) The day this all began when i went to start my car that morning it started but was shaking un-controllibly because i was out of gas from driving the other night (gas guage broken) and it didn't help it was 2 degrees out. I put gas in and it started just fine. engine light came on saying it was multiple cylinder mis-fire, so it was my gas. But could i have broken my fuel pump or fuel injector? Any ideas?

What engine do you have in your Impala?

It is either ignition or fuel. Someone already mentioned the crankshaft position sensor. If you suspect the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter you can test fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail.

BNaylor · #5 12-09-2005, 03:52 PM

BTW - It is not a good idea to run too low on fuel during the winter due to the possibility of getting condensation/moisture in the gas tank.

luarg2 · #6 12-09-2005, 04:33 PM

Its the 3.8L V6. Is that test something I can do by myself or take it to a garage? Also where is the crankshaft position sensor located in the car and how would i know its faulty. Are there any tests to find out if it is the ignition?

BNaylor · #7 12-09-2005, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luarg2

Its the 3.8L V6. Is that test something I can do by myself or take it to a garage? Also where is the crankshaft position sensor located in the car and how would i know its faulty. Are there any tests to find out if it is the ignition?

You can do it DIY if you have a fuel pressure tester and auto shops normally have one to do testing. The fuel pressure gauges are available at Autozone for around $20. On the driver's side of the engine at the fuel injector rail closest to you is a fuel pressure regulator with a Schrader valve. You connect the gauge there. Turn ignition to run not engine start (fuel pump prime) and it will read around 48 - 55 psi. Start engine and it will read around 45 - 55 psi. If this reading is out of spec you can suspect a fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Then while engine is running remove vacuum line at the fuel pressure regulator and it will read a median of around 52 psi. If it deviates more that 4 to 7 psi with vacuum on and then off the fuel pressure regulator is defective.

On the crank sensor (CKPS), it is located behind the harmonic balancer pulley on the passenger side of the engine, radiator side. If you have a SES light on it may give a odb-ii DTC error code on a scanner or or may not. Some of the other symptoms with a CKPS is the tach will drop to zero a split second before you notice the engine has stalled. It may also give a ABS light and trac off light at the time of stall. A CKPS is very difficult to troubleshoot unless the PCM gives you an error code.

luarg2 · #8 12-09-2005, 05:28 PM

I actually have a appointment with a local dealer to have my fuel pressure regulator replaced because it is covered under the recall so hopefully it will solve my problem. but i just have a gut feeling that its something else and it bugs the heck out of me when i can pin point the actual problem. i really appreciate the advice. I'll update when I get new info.
Thanks.

luarg2 · #9 12-09-2005, 06:55 PM

I am also gonna try to replace the CKPS this weekend and see if it solves my problem. The only thing is, if the CKPS is the issue, its strange that it doesn't throw a code sometimes.

luarg2 · #10 12-12-2005, 01:27 PM

*update*

I haven't gotten around to replacing the CKPS sensor this weekend but it seems that my car has gotten worse. When I started the car this morning it started normal but as soon as i shifted from park to reverse the car died and it died every try after that, after it warmed up alittle i was able to get it past reverse and into drive. I let it warm up alittle in drive and shifted back to reverse. it hesitated alittle but i was then able to back it out my driveway. Why would the car stall when i shift from park to reverse? I'm clueless here.

luarg2 · #11 12-12-2005, 01:30 PM

Also it did die in drive yesterday when i started it but i stalls more often in reverse than drive when the car is started and shifted into a moving gear.

luarg2 · #12 12-13-2005, 08:45 PM

In regards to my earlier posting. (car turns off while driving)
The car finally died on me Monday. The engine doesn't even turn over when I turn the key. Today I had it towed to GM dealer. The issue with my car is a wiring problem from the dash ignition to the PCM to the Ignition Relay box in the left side of the engine compartment. The starter, battery, etc are fine the mechanic was actually able to crank the car from the ignition relay box, so it lies in the the engine wiring harness. GM wants $1,500.00 to replace entire harness or $100.00 an hour to diagnose which wire or wires is the issue. I put the brakes on it, till I could call a few other shops and get a price. To anyone that reads this thread I will post the wiring schematics can you decifer which ones are giving me issues? Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars?

let me know

luarg2 · #13 12-13-2005, 08:47 PM

In regards to my earlier posting. (car turns off while driving)
The car finally died on me Monday. The engine doesn't even turn over when I turn the key. Today I had it towed to GM dealer. The issue with my car is a wiring problem from the dash ignition to the PCM to the Ignition Relay box in the left side of the engine compartment. The starter, battery, etc are fine the mechanic was actually able to crank the car from the ignition relay box, so it lies in the the engine wiring harness. GM wants $1,500.00 to replace entire harness or $100.00 an hour to diagnose which wire or wires is the issue. I put the brakes on it, till I could call a few other shops and get a price. To anyone that reads this thread I will post the wiring schematics can you decifer which ones are giving me issues? Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars?

let me know

bigrod118 · #14 12-13-2005, 10:06 PM

tell you waht, I dont really wanna be the "in between guy" and im not trying to steal you over to NAIOA, but go there and register, and post your question, there is a guy on there that is ABSOLUTLY AMAZING with electrical know-how about our cars, and all cars.

he will actually proabably be your best bet, unless someone here is an elecrtical engineer with 20+ years of experience and over 10 with car electrical systems. which if there are, then good, but this guy is amazing, but if its way too much work for an unexperienced person to attept, he'll tell you.

BNaylor · #15 12-14-2005, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luarg2

In regards to my earlier posting. (car turns off while driving)
The car finally died on me Monday. The engine doesn't even turn over when I turn the key. Today I had it towed to GM dealer. The issue with my car is a wiring problem from the dash ignition to the PCM to the Ignition Relay box in the left side of the engine compartment. The starter, battery, etc are fine the mechanic was actually able to crank the car from the ignition relay box, so it lies in the the engine wiring harness. GM wants $1,500.00 to replace entire harness or $100.00 an hour to diagnose which wire or wires is the issue. I put the brakes on it, till I could call a few other shops and get a price. To anyone that reads this thread I will post the wiring schematics can you decifer which ones are giving me issues? Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars?

let me know

That is an expensive repair job. Are they 100% sure it is that wiring harness and not just the ignition switch and harness assembly. The ignition switch is less expensive around $125 GM list price and takes fewer labor hours to replace. Other symptoms may include losing daytime running lights, HVAC blower not working, no rear defogger, no radio, no heated seats, etc. in addition to engine shutting off.

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