Blazer is acting funny (but not funny at all)

[yall]

OK guys, here is a question for you diagnostics guys out there. I have a 95 Blazer with 98,000 miles on it, which I bought used a year ago. I did a post earlier on this, but I didn't know that much, but nowI know more.

It only seems to happen when it is low on fuel and when it is warm, i.e. been running for a trip across town (15 minutes). The biggest problem is that I lose braking power. The brakes go completely stiff like I have lost power, but the Blazer is still running, roughly, but still running. I pull over and it sounds like it is struggling for gas. The rpm's are fluctuating and the oil gauge is fluctuating and the voltage gauge is fluctauting as well. This is when I am idleing (sp?). Everything is fine when I give it gas the Blazer runs as if nothing is wrong with it, but when I go to brake it sometimes dies on me just like that. If it doesn't die, then it acts like it wants to die. another wierd thing is when it is idleing roughly, like I discribed, I turn off the Blazer and start it up again, it doesn't ahve the problem for a couple of minutes. It is not like it starts acting this way all over again.
I don't know if this problem is interconnected with this the original, but when I go to start the engine it tries to turn over, but it won't. I takes about two to three seconds before it will turn over. It always starts without fail, but it takes a second or two. When it is warm it starts right up.

LikeI said I don't know if the problems are interconnected or not, as I am more worried about the first. My immediate solution would be to change the fuel pump, and it probably needs it, but I am one of those poor college students and don't have the money to throw at it, like some of you may have. Does the fuel pump go in and out. I had a car where Ihad the change the fuel pump, but it went out, I mean out. It didn't even run, so that leads me to think that it is not the fuel pump but something else. What does eveyone think????

Thanks for the help.

CER

[Gabe25]

You need to check on some things first.
1). Check your EGR Valve for carbon chunks. Clean and remove carbon. Make sure that the plunger is moving freely. If the plunger remains open, then you need to replace it. Re-install with new gasket.
2). Check your fuel pressure at the shrader valve. Should be between 60 & 65 psi. If below 60psi look inside Plenum for washing & gold tone color on the inside. If no washing & gold tone, Then replace fuel filter and re check fuel pressure. If still below 60 psi. Then most likely its your fuel pump.
3). Look inside your Plenum. It should be black inside. If you have washing or gold tone color inside. Then you'll need to replace your CPI and Nut Kit.
Let us know what you find.

[geezman]

Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak in your power braking booster. I had similar symptoms and it turned out I had a leak in the booster.

Originally Posted by yall

OK guys, here is a question for you diagnostics guys out there. I have a 95 Blazer with 98,000 miles on it, which I bought used a year ago. I did a post earlier on this, but I didn't know that much, but nowI know more.

It only seems to happen when it is low on fuel and when it is warm, i.e. been running for a trip across town (15 minutes). The biggest problem is that I lose braking power. The brakes go completely stiff like I have lost power, but the Blazer is still running, roughly, but still running. I pull over and it sounds like it is struggling for gas. The rpm's are fluctuating and the oil gauge is fluctuating and the voltage gauge is fluctauting as well. This is when I am idleing (sp?). Everything is fine when I give it gas the Blazer runs as if nothing is wrong with it, but when I go to brake it sometimes dies on me just like that. If it doesn't die, then it acts like it wants to die. another wierd thing is when it is idleing roughly, like I discribed, I turn off the Blazer and start it up again, it doesn't ahve the problem for a couple of minutes. It is not like it starts acting this way all over again.
I don't know if this problem is interconnected with this the original, but when I go to start the engine it tries to turn over, but it won't. I takes about two to three seconds before it will turn over. It always starts without fail, but it takes a second or two. When it is warm it starts right up.

LikeI said I don't know if the problems are interconnected or not, as I am more worried about the first. My immediate solution would be to change the fuel pump, and it probably needs it, but I am one of those poor college students and don't have the money to throw at it, like some of you may have. Does the fuel pump go in and out. I had a car where Ihad the change the fuel pump, but it went out, I mean out. It didn't even run, so that leads me to think that it is not the fuel pump but something else. What does eveyone think????

Thanks for the help.

CER

[Cailen]

Your symptoms are indicative of a faulty CPI or Nut Kit. I experienced all of these same things when the CPI went on my 1995 at about 98,000 mi. It's very rare that I've seen a weak fuel pump; it's my experience that they almost always "go".

As Gabe suggested, you'll want to pull your IMTV and have a look inside that plenum. It's easy and free to do. After that you can start looking at replacing filters or pumps.

FYI, the fuel pump makes an audible hum that can be heard quite clearly when you turn your key to the "on" position.

And I'm sorry to hear about your troubles... definitely not very "funny ha ha" Our 95s sure are nice, but they definitely have their problems (and CPI is the biggest).

[spasticone]

Mine did that when my EGR plugged up.

[gmyoyo]

Originally Posted by spasticone

Mine did that when my EGR plugged up.

Mine also... Removing the EGR valve is awkward with the proper tools but not impossible with your ordinary wrench and or sockets. Take it off and have some carb cleaner on hand to spray it out and clean it up, also look to the area it was mounted over for carbon build up and chuncks waiting to jumpo into your newly cleaned EGR. Try and get that out as well. If you have canned air or better even an air hose you may want to try and blow it out, but you'll probably just blow it back into the plenum where it will make it's way back to the EGR valve anyway. Mine was so carboned up it didn't work at all, I just replaced it. Now looking back, I wished I had try to clean it first but I was new. Could have saved some bucks there.

Look for that washing he's speaking of by removing the vortec plate (if there is one) and taking off that black IMTV valve there on top of the plenum. You will need a flashlight to get the light down inside the plenum and just look for the washing (it should be black, you will know if it's not black and is clean or washed looking, even golden looking, it's pretty obvious).

If you have the washing, you have the leaking injectors, cpi kit, nut kit problem. A definite need to fix and another job you can do, just takes a couple of hundred dollars to purchase parts. (If it is the problem).

I will say this, if you don't have washing, but do have carbon pellets in your EGR. Don't do as I did and apply any sea foam or the like, it just made matters worse for me. I'll probably get a lot of flack for that statement, but it is my opinion. I'd say take the upper plenum off and clean it up manually. Hindsight for me is 20/20.

[the87hyper]

I had a Nissan pulsar that did the exact same thing when the power brake booster went out. The booster could be something to look at.