Replacing Rear Brake Pads

[WesF]

Does anybody know how to replace the rear brake pads. The front ones were no problem. I have changed pads on many different cars but I can't get the pads off. It seems like there must be a trick to to retracting the rear calipers. It may be related to the parking brake but I really don't know.

[krstofer]

Originally Posted by WesF

Does anybody know how to replace the rear brake pads. The front ones were no problem. I have changed pads on many different cars but I can't get the pads off. It seems like there must be a trick to to retracting the rear calipers. It may be related to the parking brake but I really don't know.

I know this is an old thread, but do you still need help? I recently replaced mine.

[rjitzsu]

Yeah, there is a special screw in type tool you must put on the piston in order to make it retract. I'm not sure what outside companies have one available yet... maybe matco or snapon, but mazda definately does. It is a pretty small simple adapter tool that shouldn't cost very much.

[Ron AKA]

These are downright nasty to replace. Just did the rears on my 2006. The piston does not just squeeze back in with a C clamp like a normal disk brake. I don't quite understand how the parking brake works on these things, but I think that mechanism is the problem. I have a factory service manual, and it is not a lot of help. However, it does show the special tool they use.

It is just a round disk about the size of the piston that has two pins on one side -- which match up with the two pin holes in the piston. The middle of the disk has 3/8 or 1/2" drive socket. The intent is that you use a ratchet wrench and extension to drive this disk clockwise while you push down on it quite firmly.

I do not have the special tool, but eventually got it using a pair of needle nose pliers, and just push an twist. If you can't get it to initially twist, a rap on the piston with a hammer seems to help.

I found there were two tricks to it. First you have to push pretty hard while twisting. It seems when you do it right you can feel some resistance to the twisting, and you actually make progress. When there is no resistance you must seem to turn and turn with no progress. The second trick is to not quit until you have the piston fully retracted. It will become quite hard to twist at that point and will be well back. I made the mistake of not twisting it back fully and that brake dragged big time. Had to take it all apart again.

The two glide pins on mine had a 7mm Allen hex. They are to be torqued on reassembly to 21 ft-lbs.