How to Build an Oil Filter Relocator... For cheap

[Toysrme]

Needed:

Four - 3/8" barbs (3/8" = 9.5mm)
Four 3/8" hose clamps
6' 3/8" Fuel/Oil hose
Ultra Black RTV
You will need a tap for your barbs if you don't have one. $2.50 shipped - ebay


Instructions:
There isn't anything to say that isn't obvious. Take the stock Toyota oil filter stand- off & cut it in half. Tap (& drill if needed) the channels to accept your hose barbs. Put your sealant around the threads & tighten (15ft-lb, or pretty hand tight is good enough).
From there you have the one end that bolts to the block & the other that has the oil filter. You can relocate it anywhere you want. You can easily add dual filters, and/or an auxiliary oil cooler.
The half where the oil filter goes is pre-tapped with two plugs at the ends of the oil channels. One can be removed to install an oil pressure fitting, or a hose barb (1/4", or 3AN) if you need a turbo / supercharger oil supply.

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For people not able to drill out their own channels, it may be hard to find 3/8" barbs that do not require drilling holes out before tapping them. I had my local Nut & Bolt house order me some to my specification. (9/16"-18 NPT w' 3/8" barb)

*Note* If you're not afraid of under sizing the , 5/16" barbs are very common. The thread size is generally 9/16"-18 thread. The tap will fit straight into the oil channels without drilling.
So if 3/8" barbs are unavailable, you can always try common 5/16" barbs. (0.375" VS 0.3125"). I wouldn't add a cooler on 5/16" lines, but otherwise there shouldn't be a problem.

[Brian R.]

What engines does this apply to?


Points for consideration:

After you have tapped the holed for the nipples, flush out the holes with solvent and make sure there are no shavings left from the tap anywhere.

After you install it, check for oil leaks immediately, and after a week or so of driving.

Be careful when tightening pipe threads into pot metal. Do not overtighten the nipples - the pot metal can probably easily be split (looks like pot metal from the photos).

Do not allow kinks or sharp bends in the rubber tubing - protect the tubing from wearing against metal engine surfaces by surrounding the tubing with a length of larger diameter rubber tubing if necessary (or mount the housings so that the tubing cannot rub against metal).

Do not let the tubing touch or get near any fan belt or pully.

Inspect the lines periodically for cracks or wear.

If you mount the oil filter receiver on the wheel well or body, make sure you have a sufficient length of tubing so that there is enough "give" in the tubing to allow for engine movement.

[Toysrme]

FYI, this is works on all the v6's, but check for mounting holes before doing so on an I4.
(You must get the stand-off from a v6 if you want to attempt it)