rear brake install advice

[pizza442]

Doing the rears on the 95 for the 1st time (118k miles!). Got the pads (w/ alot of clips?) from the dealer for wholesale price $65. Question is; what might I run into problem-wise? My dad says he has a universal tool to screw in the caliper pistons but I wonder how universal it really is; he used it on a '91 Acura!

[Indy8]

I used a large pair of channel lock pliers on mine with no problem. Just be careful not to tear the seal. By clips, do you mean anti-squeal shims? The wear indicators should be riveted on. My pads had no loose parts out of the box.

[rbajjk]

My advice for a 1st time diy'er, take off the wheel, maybe even take off the caliper. Compare the pads to what is on there - they should look identical (shape of the steel plate, clips, etc). I did the front calipers and rotors on my 1997, but not the backs - they did not need it. So, sorry I can't help with the install process. Have you done the fronts? Are the backs squealing, or what? The front brakes take the pounding so usually need to go first.

Also, the tool you have will do the job. Just remember that when you compress the caliper - that brake fluid must go somewhere. Best idea is to simply open the bleeder valve while compressing - at least that way you won't overfill your fluid reservoir and get fluid all over the engine (not good). But remember to close the bleeder tight before releasing the clamp, to prevent air getting into the cylinder.

My suggestion on making sure the pads are the same shape, is based on experience. I went to pepboys and asked for ceramic pads for my minivan. Got them home, got the wheel off, and they were not even close. The dealer wanted $150 to do the job with the same quality parts that cause the original pads to wear out at 20k miles! So I am also skeptical of the great bargain you may have gotten from your dealer. Check yourself to be sure - also don't open any pkgs until you are sure, luckily I didn't open my pepboys stuff.

By the way, if you want to quickly check what it would cost to put a variety of pad types (semi-metallic, ceramic, etc) on your car - check out Rockauto.com. They sell acdelco, raybestos, akebono, all of the big names in brakes. And everything they have is <$65, not including shipping.

Anyway, good luck!

Brian.

[pizza442]

Thanks, guys. My fronts were done at 63k by a tech buddy at the dealer with dealer parts. Can't remember the exact cost, but it was probably for parts and a pizza! Fronts still have 30-40% at 117k! Rears were orig. and the replacements were exact. I know the wholesale parts mgr. at Connell Chevy so I have been getting all my Olds parts (86 442, 72 Cutlass, etc.) from him for years. He has all the old books and is willing/able to track down anything where others will say 'can't find it or disco'd' when the # has simply changed.
No squeeling and I looked at the pads when I had the wheels off to rotate. My low brake fluid dinged on me before I did the rears, so I just openned the cap as I did the rears and made sure it did not go too far up. The old pads had next to nothing left though the wear indicators were just about to touch. The AC/Delco pads came with thin, shaped metal pad retainer clips to replace the orig. one the hold the pads in place from the sides. these are not the usual anti-squeel shims I am used to seeing. Caliper is a 2-piece job where the centers pivots out on one of the 2 caliper pins. Easy once I figured out that you don't need to separate the whole mounting bracket fron the rear of the backing plate!

[kiway22]

don't forget that the rear caliper piston screw in. Don't do like I did and try to press it in with a clamp.