Intermittent Starting Problem 1998 Sierra

[BigBoyBall]

I'm having what I call the Fart or Start problem. My 98 Sierra will either start or fart, meaning it will turn over but then immediately die out, but if I let it sit for 10 or so minutes it fires right up as if there were no problem.
Here's what's been done so far:
New Plugs / Wires / Cap Rotor
New Starter
New Fuel Filter
New Electronic Ignition Module
This evening the check engine light came on and I was lucky enough to be near an Autozone and had them read the error.
P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Input Circuit Malfunction is what it is interpretted as.
This being said my next move was to replace the ignition coil, but before I go and start replacing another component which may or maynot be the answer I thought I'd come here and ask your opinions.
Thanks for taking the time to read this post and for your advice in advance.

[Jeremy-WI]

Have you noticed the security light being on when it decides to fart and not start?

[BigBoyBall]

Yes the security light is on most of the time. I didn't even think to include that, good pickup.

[BigBoyBall]

I did some more research on this problem via the net and found out that the passlock security feature has caused problems similar to mine but I have yet to find the answer to the problem.
Do you need to replace the passlock security system?
How can you troubleshoot this problem via the passlock?

[horse482]

Could also be fuel pressure regulator.

[MT-2500]

Man you are between a rock and a hard place.
You have 3 ways to go.
On the code. 1351
http://members.troublecodes.net/crunch/1351.pdf
On the anti theft light you need to get it on a body capable scanner and retrieve body codes to find the problem on it.
Also always check fuel pressure on a hard start or no start.
You did not say what engine but if a muti port injection eng.


Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

Let us know how it goes and if you get any body codes on the anti theft system post back code no.

Good Luck MT

[BigBoyBall]

Looks like a great deal of information to help me start diagnosing the problem.
Thank you very much for your time and thoughtfullness.
Kevin

[MT-2500]

You are welcome and I hope it helps.
On the anti theft if it is the problem watch for no injector pulse. When it trips it will shut off injectors.
Good Luck
MT

[BigBoyBall]

Sorry I forgot to mention that my engine is the 5.0

[MrBillPro]

Originally Posted by horse482

Could also be fuel pressure regulator.

Yep! that is were I would personally start.

[BigBoyBall]

Problem solved in a most unusual way. I didn't think to mention this since I was assured that it would not contribute to the starting problem but here goes.
I have / had a remote starter in the vehicle. I was assured of two things.
1. that the bypass module for the Passlock was installed upon purchase, which we found out it was not.
2. that the bypass module would have nothing to do with the problem that I was experiencing.

Well here goes, I decided to change out the bypass module since all other options have failed. I called the original installer 3 times and each time no return phone call. So I move on to a new installer. Well to our surprise the son of a bitch who installed the original remote car starter told me I needed a bypass module due to the Passlock security feature that my vehicle has, but instead of installing one he goes the cheap way out by daisy chaining 3 - .10 cent resistors together which caused all sorts of damage underneath there. Melted wires, melted plastic shroud and the remote starter was a few attempts away from going up in flames.

I am a total novice when it comes to car audio, car alarms and remote starters or at least I was til recently, that is why I paid someone to do right by me but instead go screwed into a several hundred dollar loss.

I have re-installed a new car starter with the bypass module for two reasons.
1. I enjoy the luxury of having the remote start feature during the cold winter months.
2. It was basically necessary due to all the wiring damage that had taken place because of the negligence with the initial installation. Instead of splicing wires into the vehicle.

Thanks all of you who took the time to offer your suggestions to my problems. I really do appreciate all of your efforts.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by BigBoyBall

Problem solved in a most unusual way. I didn't think to mention this since I was assured that it would not contribute to the starting problem but here goes.
I have / had a remote starter in the vehicle. I was assured of two things.
1. that the bypass module for the Passlock was installed upon purchase, which we found out it was not.
2. that the bypass module would have nothing to do with the problem that I was experiencing.

Well here goes, I decided to change out the bypass module since all other options have failed. I called the original installer 3 times and each time no return phone call. So I move on to a new installer. Well to our surprise the son of a bitch who installed the original remote car starter told me I needed a bypass module due to the Passlock security feature that my vehicle has, but instead of installing one he goes the cheap way out by daisy chaining 3 - .10 cent resistors together which caused all sorts of damage underneath there. Melted wires, melted plastic shroud and the remote starter was a few attempts away from going up in flames.

I am a total novice when it comes to car audio, car alarms and remote starters or at least I was til recently, that is why I paid someone to do right by me but instead go screwed into a several hundred dollar loss.

I have re-installed a new car starter with the bypass module for two reasons.
1. I enjoy the luxury of having the remote start feature during the cold winter months.
2. It was basically necessary due to all the wiring damage that had taken place because of the negligence with the initial installation. Instead of splicing wires into the vehicle.

Thanks all of you who took the time to offer your suggestions to my problems. I really do appreciate all of your efforts.

Thanks for posting back on how it went.
That sounds like you got a bum deal on it.
But glad you got it figured out and fixed.
MT

[ponchonutty]

Glad to hear that you got it. I own a shop that specializes in remote starts and such. It really pisses me off with these so called professionals hack up vehicles. It just gives me a bad name. If I ever installed things like that at the dealerships I service, they'd have me out of there in a hurry.

Case in point. This one big Chevy/Pontiac dealer was using me and another shop. The other shop they liked to use when either I was too busy or if they were throwing in a cheap remote start or stereo in on the deal. Well, they had this other guy install keyless entry on a new G6. Later, the customer wanted me to do cruise control since I can do a very close to factory one. Well, the other place installed a real POS keyless entry and they broke all the tabs off of the clips that hold the harnesses into the BCM. They only did keyless and not horn honk or even trunk pop!!! Anyway, the service manager knows me well so I had to have him check it out. I mainly did this because I had to get into some of those harnesses the previous guy messed up. Later on he made a memo telling the staff not to use the other guy.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Glad to hear that you got it. I own a shop that specializes in remote starts and such. It really pisses me off with these so called professionals hack up vehicles. It just gives me a bad name. If I ever installed things like that at the dealerships I service, they'd have me out of there in a hurry.

Case in point. This one big Chevy/Pontiac dealer was using me and another shop. The other shop they liked to use when either I was too busy or if they were throwing in a cheap remote start or stereo in on the deal. Well, they had this other guy install keyless entry on a new G6. Later, the customer wanted me to do cruise control since I can do a very close to factory one. Well, the other place installed a real POS keyless entry and they broke all the tabs off of the clips that hold the harnesses into the BCM. They only did keyless and not horn honk or even trunk pop!!! Anyway, the service manager knows me well so I had to have him check it out. I mainly did this because I had to get into some of those harnesses the previous guy messed up. Later on he made a memo telling the staff not to use the other guy.

10-4 on some of them butcher jobs.
A good installation is the main thing.
I run into that a lot. On no starts and cars acting up or acting strange.
Look under dash and it looks like a rats nest.
I always tell people to get a good one and a good installation.
Can you tell us anything about them cheap 39$ walmart remote start jobs that people always come up with for presents and exc. around hollidays?
Or what kind you recommend or use?
MT

[ponchonutty]

No problem. Like I tell everyone the basis of all remote starters is the same. They are just simple microprocessors and relays. The big difference is how durable they are, warranty, and how they interface into vehicles.

Bulldog, Boa, and Design Tech are the 3 no no's. They have the cheapest componets. Bulldog is actually based here in Ohio but again, what do you get for $45? Boa and Design Tech are made by Directed Electronics which is the worlds largest alarm company. They recent bought Design Tech so they're still Design Tech by design. Boa on the other hand is simular to it's counterparts like Viper, Python, and Clifford. The only problem is they REALLY cheapened them up.

Yes, I do see alot of Bulldogs during Xmas. I charge a flat fee of $100 plus parts with no warranty on product obviously. So, the person buys one for $45 then me $100=$145 when maybe $25 more they could have a much nicer one with full warranty. The biggest problem with the cheap ones is range. Also, like when I sell my Compustar or higher end Python units, I can do driver priority unlock, domelight supervision and other things too that can't be done with the cheap ones.

One more thing to add is that they have a high failure rate out of the box. I had a guy during the Xmas rush sechedule 3 Bulldogs to be installed. One for him, wife, and in-law. He wanted his done first, before Xmas and set up times for the other 2. First one didn't do anything, called him and he dropped off another. That one did something but not sure what??? He then came back, unwrapped the one he had for the in-laws, I plugged it in and it worked fine. He then decided to buy 2 from me, and took back the other 2. Then about the 3 week in January came back to have me install one of mine in his car and take the Bulldog out!!!