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#1
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Vibration
My car is vibrating when braking at speeds over 70mph the higher the speed the more visible the vibration is, could this be bad tires or bad brakes?
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#2
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Re: Vibration
i've got not so good tires on mine, and it vibrates some...i imagine i have flat spots, or uneven tread wear, have you locked up your wheels lately? or is your tire pressure the right thing all the way around? also alignment will cause vibration if it is off enough... look into all of that stuff
__________________
![]() Don't act like you don't love it.
503/2000 |
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#3
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sounds like the imfamous warped brake rotor to me
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#4
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Re: Vibration
Quote:
Just a note: For anyone that would like to blame a manufactuer for warped rotors, i would think again. More than likely the reason your get warped rotors is because you do not let the pads "seed" into the rotors. Also, most rotors need a certain number of heat cycles to cure the rotor itself...if you put new pads and rotors on and then do some 100-0 hard stops, you are going to warp your rotors. If you put new shit on take a couple hundred miles to brake them in, they will last a lot longer and you wont have to replace rotors every time you need pads. Usually like 3 pad cycles per rotor cycle.
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2000 Fed. Spec GT-"Lafawnduh" Mods: SPEC 2+ Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, PowerStop Rotors, Red Stuff Pads, Stainless Brake Lines, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings, Deyeme Firm Motor Mounts, KYB AGX shocks with Eibach Proline springs, Halo Projector Headlights with HID 12000K Conversion, TYC Carbon Tails, Kicker SS6.5 Component Front, SS MB8 Custom rear, Tsunami 2F Capacitor, ***New Stuff*** JVC KD-AV7010 In Dash DVD Player, Kicker L7 12" Woofer, Kenwood KAC-X10D Mono Amp |
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#5
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Re: Vibration
It could be both. I was having the samething happening to my car. First I thought that it was the rotors because I could feel it happening when I hit the brakes because the steering wheel viberated extremely bad. I went and had the front rotors replaced and the rear pads (front pads where at 50% so I left them alone. Rear where at 10%). I was told my rear rotors where not bad but I should look into replacing them soon, but anyways the samething still occured. A couple weeks later I was under my car and noticed that the inside of both of my rear tires where completely bald. I replaced my tires and afterwards about 90% of the viberation went away. I still haven't replaced the rear rotors but since I am getting some powerslot rotors and hawk pads for christmas I am not going to worry about it right now.
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2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Debagged, 18" MKW Rims, 5% Tint, Ralliart Eyelids, Outlaw Racing IM and TB Spacers, Ingals "Stiffy", Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mounts, Tanabe Lower Tie/Strut Bars, Progress Rear/Eibach Front Sway Bar, D2 Racing Lowering Springs, RRE Headers and Axelback, AEM CAI w/ Bypass, 12000k HID Heads, 3000k HID Fogs, Sunroof Wind Visor, Drilled/Slotted Front/Rear Rotors, and Ceramic Brake Pads. |
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#6
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OK, so the insides of your rear tires bald faster than the rest of the tire? Mine does the same thing and it is pissing me off because it is loud as hell back there. Does anyone know why it does this, and will a new suspenssion fix it? Looking at the car from the rear it looks like the camber is set werid.
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2000 Fed. Spec GT-"Lafawnduh" Mods: SPEC 2+ Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, PowerStop Rotors, Red Stuff Pads, Stainless Brake Lines, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings, Deyeme Firm Motor Mounts, KYB AGX shocks with Eibach Proline springs, Halo Projector Headlights with HID 12000K Conversion, TYC Carbon Tails, Kicker SS6.5 Component Front, SS MB8 Custom rear, Tsunami 2F Capacitor, ***New Stuff*** JVC KD-AV7010 In Dash DVD Player, Kicker L7 12" Woofer, Kenwood KAC-X10D Mono Amp |
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#7
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Re: Vibration
well it seem as though w/ all that weight from your stereo in the back, that you could use a new alignment, ur back end has to be squatting a little bit more than normal
__________________
![]() Don't act like you don't love it.
503/2000 |
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#8
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Re: Vibration
Although I do have alot of weight in my trunk I doubt that it is entirely the sole cause of the tires balding that quick. The system has only been in the car for about 3 months and this started before I put the subs and box in the trunk. Probably needed a rear alignment when I bought it.
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2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Debagged, 18" MKW Rims, 5% Tint, Ralliart Eyelids, Outlaw Racing IM and TB Spacers, Ingals "Stiffy", Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mounts, Tanabe Lower Tie/Strut Bars, Progress Rear/Eibach Front Sway Bar, D2 Racing Lowering Springs, RRE Headers and Axelback, AEM CAI w/ Bypass, 12000k HID Heads, 3000k HID Fogs, Sunroof Wind Visor, Drilled/Slotted Front/Rear Rotors, and Ceramic Brake Pads. |
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#9
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Re: Re: Vibration
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See, i was kinda thinking the same thing...but then i thought about this. There is probably about 120lb of stereo back there, and that would be like riding with a chick in the back seat all the time...i dont think that would really make anything too bad. You think a rear allignment would fix the problem?
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2000 Fed. Spec GT-"Lafawnduh" Mods: SPEC 2+ Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, PowerStop Rotors, Red Stuff Pads, Stainless Brake Lines, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings, Deyeme Firm Motor Mounts, KYB AGX shocks with Eibach Proline springs, Halo Projector Headlights with HID 12000K Conversion, TYC Carbon Tails, Kicker SS6.5 Component Front, SS MB8 Custom rear, Tsunami 2F Capacitor, ***New Stuff*** JVC KD-AV7010 In Dash DVD Player, Kicker L7 12" Woofer, Kenwood KAC-X10D Mono Amp |
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#10
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Re: Vibration
my car started vibrating when started i breaking going 120 mph. it vibrates now ever since, i am in dire need of brakes.
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#11
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the problemm wiht the inside of the tire wearing away quicker is a Camber problem this also hapens when you drop a car(hapens to all cars) all you need is a camber kit or be like me and use a few high strength washers
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#12
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Re: Re: Vibration
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Thats why you engine brake...
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2000 Fed. Spec GT-"Lafawnduh" Mods: SPEC 2+ Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, PowerStop Rotors, Red Stuff Pads, Stainless Brake Lines, B&M Short Shifter, Energy Suspension Shifter Bushings, Deyeme Firm Motor Mounts, KYB AGX shocks with Eibach Proline springs, Halo Projector Headlights with HID 12000K Conversion, TYC Carbon Tails, Kicker SS6.5 Component Front, SS MB8 Custom rear, Tsunami 2F Capacitor, ***New Stuff*** JVC KD-AV7010 In Dash DVD Player, Kicker L7 12" Woofer, Kenwood KAC-X10D Mono Amp |
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#13
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you can brake from that speed but u just dont slam on the brakes hard
you brake slowly and softly |
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#14
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Re: Vibration
Even better solution, don't drive a 120 mph and you won't have to slow down from a 120mph
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2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT Debagged, 18" MKW Rims, 5% Tint, Ralliart Eyelids, Outlaw Racing IM and TB Spacers, Ingals "Stiffy", Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mounts, Tanabe Lower Tie/Strut Bars, Progress Rear/Eibach Front Sway Bar, D2 Racing Lowering Springs, RRE Headers and Axelback, AEM CAI w/ Bypass, 12000k HID Heads, 3000k HID Fogs, Sunroof Wind Visor, Drilled/Slotted Front/Rear Rotors, and Ceramic Brake Pads. |
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#15
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Re: Re: Vibration
Quote:
![]() engine braking from any higher speed is your best solution unless you have high-performance brakes and pads that you are absolutely positive can withstand the heat and i think that having a 120lb girl in the trunk of your car directly above your rear suspension 24/7 could cause some wear and tear on the suspension part causing it to not hold up quite as well, thats just a theory though its not like you only riding in the car a max of 2-3 hours per dayif you get it fixed you'll have to get new tires too as well as an alignment and if you have some extra money, i could use new tires too
__________________
![]() Don't act like you don't love it.
503/2000 |
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