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#1
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1998 s-10 spark plugs
okay guys other then burning the hell out of my hand (engines are hot, no on says that one here)... i accomplished nothing tonight... i went and bought plugs for my s-10 2.2 L and i cannot get the plug wires to come off the plugs... is there a trick to it?.. i cannot seem to get a good grip with my hand down there.. is there and easier way of doing it or just i have to try a lil harder?
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#2
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ok heres the deal. when plugwires get stuck like that there is a good 50/50 chance the things will live. but the easiest way to do it is twist the crap out of teh boot until you feel it pop loose. after that pull it off. sometimes the boot splits and tears, sometimes the clip that goes onto the spark plug comes off of the wire, somtimes both of these happen. either way its probably a good idea to set aside some money for decent spark plug wires (not the cheapies from the zone or advanced etc) and get a small tube of dielectric grease to keep the plugwires from sticking. it doesnt take much just a dab in the end of the boot and after you get it on twist it a bit to get it around in there.
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#3
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
The secret is wait at least 1/2 an hour after you shut the motor off.
Sorry that we didn't tell you that motors are hot They might be siezed on, so you might end up braking them off and replacing them. Which is recomended from time to time anyways |
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#4
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
well i had the plug wires changed a year ago.. so i figured they would be easy to get off.. but one problem im having is getting my hand down in there in order to be able to twist the wires... and i dont even know how im going to get the 1st or second cylinder off because of the damn ac compressor...whats me other alternative to this... i know my plugs need changed but i dont want to pay a mechanic to do it.. im sure you guys know what i mean there
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#5
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
I don't know the 4 bangers much, but is it easy to move the compressor over to the side for a while until uour done the job?
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#6
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
yes obp you move the compressor... and there is a special pair of needle nosed plyers, but instead of a 'needle tip' they have a gap in them when closed, made for grabbing spark plug boots
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#7
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I just changed the plugs in both my Blazer and the Crew Cab. I jacked the the truck up just a bit to get some space between the wheel and the fender and was able to get to the plugs and wired through the wheel well. It was alot better than going from the top. Both trucks are 4.3 but you might give it a look and see if it will work on the 4 banger.
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#8
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
i dont think jacking it up would help any... but ill try moving the compressor... maybe that will help
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#9
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
does anyone know anything about doing a enginge swap on a '94 s-10? where i can get a motor? parts needed for the job...u know that kiind of stuff
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#10
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
Quote:
Get some dielectric grease..... usually comes in a little tube and is found at your local parts store in the same section they sell all the sealants and anti-sieze compunds. Before slipping the boot onto the plug, smear just a little bit of the grease around the inside of the boot.... this will help (not eliminate) the boot from sticking to the plug. Use the grease on the distributor end of the wires; a swipe on the inside of each boot will keep them from sticking to the distributor towers. When removing plug boots that have been on for awhile.... use a tool (either home made or purchased) that slips down under the boot allowing you to push the boot off from the very end (the end stuffed down into the engine block). I use a commercially made, flat metal tool having a pair of tabs bent up at the end, slip it down into the plug well and snag the boot end. mike |
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#11
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you better wait more than a half hour. remove spark plugs from aluminum heads ONLY when the engine is cold. otherwise you risk ripping the threads out.
also, make sure you use anti-sieze on the new plugs. |
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#12
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Re: 1998 s-10 spark plugs
eat your Wheaties. I used a pair of channel locks once to remove some stubborn wires but when I replaced mine recently they came right off. But being nestled right but the exhaust manifold it does tend to get rather warm. Wear some leather gloves to protect you from heat as well as sharp edges and then go like mad. Also if you manage to pull the threads out of an aluminum head then you are really doing something wrong.
__________________
'95 S-10 2.2L 5 spd Mods: efan, "custom" CAI 161k and going "strong" '91 Buick Regal Limited 3800 V6 AT 148k and starting the nickel and dime game |
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