Nitrous gurus need some help

[doug294]

Well my swap is wrapping up (after blowing two headgaskets and a piston ring, and starting over again) and I have decided that I will more than likely go nitrous since it's a daily driver/weekend warrior. The car is a 91 Civic HB SI. My setup includes:

97 Y8 bored .020 over
JE 10.5:1 C/R pistons
Eagle H beam rods
Short ram intake ( soon to be full cold air)
DC 4-2-1 header

I will soon be converting to OBD1 with a chipped P28 running crome.

Ok so here are the questions:

1) I have a extra Y8 manifold that is off the car. Should I go ahead and buy and setup the Y8 manifold with direct port nitrous since it's off the car, or will a simple wet kit work just as well.

2) I am still running stock sleeves, how much nitrous can the stock sleeves handle safely (assuming I have a decent tune)

3) Have you guys found it cheaper to piece your own kit together or just buy a pre made kit?

4) If I find a good deal on a wet kit and go ahead and install it to run a small shot, how hard will it be later on to convert this setup to direct port?

Thanks Doug

[civickiller]

depends how much nitrous you want to run. but wet is better

[YZ125rider21]

my experience with nitrous is bad...shot 6 motor outs in matter of 3 months....get trigger happy with nitrous...i sure it can handle a 100 wet shot if its tuned being your going forged...I was slapping a 75 shot on stock d16 and it did fine till my dizzy jumped on me....but I love direct port just cant seem to fine the really shit for cheap....

[doug294]

How is wet better than DP? Please elaborate?

[91CRXTC]

and what is the diference in layout with wet from DP. i know DP is matched in with the FI, or can it also be inbetween the mani and block?

[civickiller]

sorry i didnt read that part in your post. direct port is a wet system, also so is a fogger system.

there are 3 types of nitrous setups you could run.

dry - single nitrous line to the intake soemwhere and added fuel pressure gives you your needed fuel. you can only go so big of a shot with dry.

wet-fogger- 1 nitrous line and 1 fuel line on the intake, best to put about 3" before the throttle body. this sprays fuel and nitrous together. its more safer and you can use a bigger shot

wet-directport- this is the best out of the 3. a directport ensures each cylinder is getting the same amount, as oppose to the others where #1 gets alittle more than the rest. this goes on the runners of the intake mani. i think its looks the sickest too. this is the one where you can pretty much use any size shot that you want.


american eagle- do you know why you blew 6 motors ? probably because you dont konw anything about nitrous and you shouldnt be using it. its funny to watch people like you who know nothing about what they are doing to their cars, yet they do it anyways because it was on f&f and then they come on here and ask why did i blow my motor or come on here and acting proud that they blew 6 motors, it shows you dont know anything about nitrous and tuning .tuning so you probably ran lean or had a chip in your car resulting in a blown motor.
the only people i know that blew their motors from nitrous were people using it in the wrong way.

oh yeah and how did your dizzy jump on you ? what it come off the head and jumped forward in timing then put itself back on the head?

[doug294]

Yeah I knew the difference in the three. I just coulnd't understand why you were saying wet was better than DP. I know both are wet, I was just saying wet and DP for simplicity.

The DP looks like a pretty simply setup. Hardest part will be bending the pipe (need a pipe bender).

My main thing is this: I found a good deal on a NOS (yes the brand) fogger wet kit. If I get that, how hard is it to convert this to DP. I know I will have to have three more foggers. Then do I just need the fuel and nitrous pipes and solenoids to convert to DP?

[YZ125rider21]

for on I step down to colder spark plugs, ran racing gas, and last I pulled the timing back 2 degrees on a 75 shot....timing jump on me do to piece of shit dizzy...found out it was defective after a few motors...and for Doug DP is the way to go...just stay away from purge kits...dont want the nitrous get there before your fuel does even though its a wet kit...those just something I learn at the track from some guys...always said good to have a lil air in the lines or else it go bomb if that fuel aint there before the nitrous....why I say purging is for looks only

[doug294]

If I go DP I think I will run the SS braided lines instead of the bent pipes. I heard you should run your nitrous lines longer because the nitrous is running at around 900psi and the fuel is at like 40psi.

[civickiller]

what do you mean purging is only for looks ? do you know why people purge their nitrous ?

[YZ125rider21]

ya to get all the air out the lines...but most us aint dragsters and need that lil air in there so we dont have to worry about nitrous getting there before the fuel....

[civickiller]

the reason you purge nitrous is because once you open the bottle, the lines are filled with nitrous. after a few minutes of sitting at room temp it liquifies, liquid nitrous is not combustable like gas nitrous. purging gets rid of the liquid nitrous and fills it with fresh gas nitrous. thats why you purge at the starting line and not before, because letting it sit, it might turn into liquid.

the only side effect of not purging is when you hit the nitrous, it will run rich for that 1 second.

[doug294]

So if you turned it on right before you raced, then turned it off right after would this for the most part eliminate that problem?

[civickiller]

if you opened at the line than that might be ok. but once your done using the nitrous, the lines will still be filled up to the bottle so shutting it after, the line will still be filled.

[doug294]

Oh yeah duh lol. Wasn't thinking of that.