How to get Fog Lights to stay on with High Beams???

[383stroker_1]

I was wondering if anyone new how to keep the fog lights on with the high beams? I would like keep them on for increase visability, but not sure how to do it without the possibilty of problems. Is there a relay or kit to buy? Or just simple rewiring? Thanks.

[Ripn12s]

There is a way to jump a wire in the engine fuse box. I'll try and find the info when I get home from work. Maybe someone else has the site or info that was on the site.

[KX2000GTP]

Originally Posted by 383stroker_1

I was wondering if anyone new how to keep the fog lights on with the high beams? I would like keep them on for increase visability, but not sure how to do it without the possibilty of problems. Is there a relay or kit to buy? Or just simple rewiring? Thanks.

you could buy aftermarket lights...

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by KX2000GTP

you could buy aftermarket lights...

Hey Jake, maybe we can help him blow out his foglights...lol.

There is a wiring mod that can be done in the engine compartment fusebox. It centers around pin 85 of the fog lamp relay. Problem is if you screw up you may lose your high beams or the fog lamp relay won't energize. The other problem is all the wires are color coded light green in that circuit. There is a choice of 3 wires on the socket side of the fog lamp relay. One of those has to be disconnected and the fog lamps will stay on when you use the high beams.










Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[KX2000GTP]

Originally Posted by bnaylor3400

Hey Jake, maybe we can help him blow out his foglights...lol.

HAHA, let's hope he doesn't do what I did...melt wires cuz i let the ground and hot touch

Me =

Honestly though, I would get the blazertechs...You can wire a nice little rocker switch inside the car and ahve them on whenever you want (just make sure you turn them off when you get out of the car )

[Ripn12s]

All it involves is bending one of the relay's prongs and running a jumper wire. You dont need to get under the fuse box at all. Ill see if i can find the site.

[Ripn12s]

http://www.scacgp.com/mods/flswitch.htm

I just did part one of that and had no problems.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Ripn12s

http://www.scacgp.com/mods/flswitch.htm

I just did part one of that and had no problems.

Are you 100% sure that will work on his year and model Grand Prix? It's applicable to '97 - '99 only. GM changed the wiring and some of the relays on the 2000 and up. I recall he has a 2000 GT.

Personally, I like my way better. It doesn't look like something that comes out of Pakistan or what's commonly referred to as a jury rig.

I agree with Jake (KX2000GTP), go with the Blazertechs.






Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[rbsteve]

is this even a safe thing to do to the car ?? ive always thought that GM designed it this way to prevent an overload and possibly damage the wiring or the lights. Also wouldnt this extra load actually reduce the brightness of both lights since the power is more spread out when they are on simultaneously ?

Im just wondering cuz melted wires SUCK !

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by rbsteve

is this even a safe thing to do to the car ?? ive always thought that GM designed it this way to prevent an overload and possibly damage the wiring or the lights. Also wouldnt this extra load actually reduce the brightness of both lights since the power is more spread out when they are on simultaneously ?

Im just wondering cuz melted wires SUCK !

I agree, it's a potential safety and fire hazard. But here is my perspective. Whoever dreamed up the jury rig procedure did not do his homework. First off, he fails to identify Relay #11 which just happens to be the main ignition relay with up to 40 amps of current draw. Instead of isolating the new ground or tapping into a similar 10 amp circuit, he shares it with the ground to the ignition relay. Technically, they should be isolated via isolation diodes and anti-chatter or the grounds should be independent. As admitted in the procedure, the jumper causes the relays not to be snug in the sockets. Not good news especially for the ignition relay because it feeds and branches off 12v with lots of current to the following components via their respective fuses:

PCM module, ignition control module, all 6 fuel injectors, both 02 sensors, evap purge solenoid, evap vent solenoid, egr valve, MAF sensor, AC clutch, stop lamps, TCC solenoid, TCC-PWM solenoid, 1-2 shift solenoid, 3-4 shift solenoid, PCS solenoid, etc.

In another words the car will be dead in the water if Relay 11 ignition relay fails, makes poor contact or gets damaged. Although it may sound nice to some to have the fog lamps stay on when high beams are on, it's not worth the ramifications. Just my 2 cents.







Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.

[383stroker_1]

Thanks for all your suggestions, and thanks for your effort "RIPN12S" for the diagram.

[383stroker_1]

I think I will leave well enough alone and either get after market fogs or get better head light bulbs. I don't want to be left on the side of the road just because I messed with something that was not ment to be messed with, but thanks again.

[KX2000GTP]

Originally Posted by 383stroker_1

I think I will leave well enough alone and either get after market fogs or get better head light bulbs. I don't want to be left on the side of the road just because I messed with something that was not ment to be messed with, but thanks again.

Don't know if you've come across these sites yet...

http://www.3800performance.com/Merch...roduct_Count=6

http://www.zzperformance.com/products1.php?id=94

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...ode=GPLIGHTING

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...ode=GPLIGHTING

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...ode=GPLIGHTING

http://www.pfyc.com/store/merchant.m...ode=GPLIGHTING

There's plenty more out there...but the stock lights suck on our cars. Any of these may help you out.

[knight58]

The reason that the fog lights go off when the high beams come on is that in some states, if not all, it is illegal to operate aux. lights with high beams. They are treated as high beams and also must be shut off when causing vision problems for approaching vehicles. That is why there is a switch to independently control them on factory installed fog/driving lights. In Indiana it is illegal to operate more than four headlights or combination of more than four headlight and fog/driving lights at the same time.

[KX2000GTP]

Originally Posted by knight58

The reason that the fog lights go off when the high beams come on is that in some states, if not all, it is illegal to operate aux. lights with high beams. They are treated as high beams and also must be shut off when causing vision problems for approaching vehicles. That is why there is a switch to independently control them on factory installed fog/driving lights. In Indiana it is illegal to operate more than four headlights or combination of more than four headlight and fog/driving lights at the same time.

so you are saying that fog lights have to be cut off when another car is approaching?? that doesn't make sense...fog lights aim low to the ground, to illuminate fog...at least i thought so.

and if the high beams are one and the fog lights are on...that 4 lights
low beams and foglights...4 lights...

maybe i'm confused on your point.

I leave my fogs on at night no matter what, it's for my visibility...that's why when you learn to drive you are taught not to look directly at the lights of the oncomming cars, look at the white line on the right side of your lane. Keeps you moving in the lane and doesn't affect vision as much...(even if the guy in the oncomming lane doesn't kill his highs)