More Problems with my 96 Blazer from hell

[Rick1488]

Hello,
I took my truck in because a clicking sound was coming from the engine and it will get louder with acceleration, so anyways I took it in and here is what they found:

1: The clicking noise is caused by a sticky lifter. The mechanic recommended Slick 50, so I bought some Slick 50 for high mileage vehicles, but it stats on the back add 10% to vehicles that take 6 qrts. Now what I want to know is can I take 15oz of oil out of my truck and replace it with the 15oz of slick 50? I just can't see spending $20 on this stuff and only using 10% of it.

2: Water Pump Leaks (Will Fix)

3: Oil Cooler Lines Leak (Should I worry about it?)

4: Trans Pan Leaks (Should I worry about it?)

5: Trans Mount Busted (Will Fix)


I would appreciate you input on this as I'm just going to add the full 15oz of the slick 50 to my crankcase after I remove 15oz of oil. I'm also going to replace the water pump and fix the trans mount, but I'm not worried about the other 2 as my trans fluid is full so how much can it be leaking??

[BlazerLT]

NO SLICK 50!!!!!!

DON'T DO IT!!!!

If anything get some gunk engine flush from walmart and run it at IDLE in your engine for 30 minutes and then drop your oil and filter and do an oil change.

Slick 50 is a scam as has ingredients that will actually make the lifter worse.

Trust me on this, DON'T DO IT!

[Rick1488]

I hate gunk as it screwed up my Pontiac after using it.

I've heard great things from a few people about slick 50. What problem(s) have u had with slick50?

Thanks Rick

[Rick1488]

Originally Posted by Rick1488

I hate gunk as it screwed up my Pontiac after using it.

I've heard great things from a few people about slick 50. What problem(s) have u had with slick50?

Thanks Rick

Ok! I'm gonna do it your way BlazerLT! I didn't want to believe slick 50 was junk as I spent $20 on it and lost my damn receipt.. The other shitty thing is I just changed my oil and now I have to do it again after I flush the engine, but I don't want anymore harm done to my engine with the stuck lifter and all.

I'm gonna check this thread when I return from work and get ready to do the flush. I would appreciate if you guys could give me your opinions if you think the flush will free the stuck lifter or am I just wasting my money??

Thanks, Rick

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by Rick1488

Ok! I'm gonna do it your way BlazerLT! I didn't want to believe slick 50 was junk as I spent $20 on it and lost my damn receipt.. The other shitty thing is I just changed my oil and now I have to do it again after I flush the engine, but I don't want anymore harm done to my engine with the stuck lifter and all.

I'm gonna check this thread when I return from work and get ready to do the flush. I would appreciate if you guys could give me your opinions if you think the flush will free the stuck lifter or am I just wasting my money??

Thanks, Rick

Ok, do the flush like I said and do yourself a favor and go get some Mobil1 synthetic and a good oil filter (NOT FRAM). This will definitely clean the lifter out for you over the next oil change and you will be amazed as to how much dirt the Mobil1 will remove.

It is not that expensive. Oh, also, replace your PCV valve.

[Rick1488]

Well, I got home late so I didn't do anything today, but I'd like to know after I do the flush and change the oil does the oil have to be changed again in a week or so or is the 1 change good enough to remove the flush??

[BlazerLT]

one change should be good and the little amount of flush left in the system should easily be good for over 3000 miles.

Will you be using synthetic or conventional?

[Rick1488]

I'm going to go the whole 9 yards and get the synthetic oil and a K&N synthetic filter. I just hope this works.. I feel confident the flush will be more thorough then the slick50 and hopefully less abrasive on the engine as it does have 100k on it.

I also keep thinking how I have to do this in my unheated garage in 20F weather

Thanks for your help your a true asset to the forum.

Rick

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by Rick1488

I'm going to go the whole 9 yards and get the synthetic oil and a K&N synthetic filter. I just hope this works.. I feel confident the flush will be more thorough then the slick50 and hopefully less abrasive on the engine as it does have 100k on it.

I also keep thinking how I have to do this in my unheated garage in 20F weather

Thanks for your help your a true asset to the forum.

Rick

Don't worry about the K&N oil filter, get a good Mobil1 filter and some 5w30 Mobil1 Synthetic oil for after the change.

I would go for about 6000 miles with this change. You watch as that synthetic get dirty fast as it cleans your engine out. Mobil1 is known for that.

And thanks for the compliment, I only love to help.

[Rick1488]

Hello,
5w30 Mobil1 Synthetic oil is exactly what I bought along with the gunk engine cleaner, but it stats on the bottle run the engine for 5min. Should I still run for 30min? I'm also unsure of one other thing. Do I have to buy a special oil filter for the synthetic or is the conventional filters used for synthetic??

By the way what is wrong with Fram filters? Fram is the only brand I've used sense I got my first car.


Thanks, Rick

[BlazerLT]

1.) make sure you dump the gunk engine cleaner in the oil in your truck now. Don't dump it in the synthetic.

2.) Yes, 30 minutes and it is best that those 30 minutes are hot too. Go for a drive, come back and dump the oil in while it is idling and allow it to idle for 30 minutes. IDLE ONLY!

3.) Normal good NON FRAM oil filter is best. WIX, Napa gold, K&N, Purolator, AC Delco etc. are all good.

4.) Fram are absolute shit. Cardboard end caps, 1/2 the filter media and poor construction. Don't ue them, use anything but them.

[the87hyper]

The oil lines on the truck that are leaking, FIX THEM ASAP!! These lines have a tendency to blow out of there fitting. Just imagine what would happen if you were driving down the road and one let loose.... Can you say crate motor!! Seriously get it done.

[Rick1488]

*Update*

Saturday 11/19 I started work on my truck which includes:

Flushed Engine with Gunk

Changed the oil

Switched from conventional oil to synthetic.

Installed new water pump to fix the leaky one.

Found bad fan clutch

Installed new Fan Clutch

After finishing all the work the lifter was still tapping away and it was driving me crazy so I still had the bottle of slick 50 in the garage and I said what the hell and added it to the oil with no change what so ever, but 3 days later today I left to go to work and the tapping is completely gone and the engine is running completely smooth. I have to say the slick50 is responsible for it. I called slick50 to ask about harm to my engine and the man said the stuff is 80% oil and no harm will be caused to my engine and if anything was to occur that I can prove their product is responsible they will cover all damages, so I must stand by this product..

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by Rick1488

*Update*

Saturday 11/19 I started work on my truck which includes:

Flushed Engine with Gunk

Changed the oil

Switched from conventional oil to synthetic.

Installed new water pump to fix the leaky one.

Found bad fan clutch

Installed new Fan Clutch

After finishing all the work the lifter was still tapping away and it was driving me crazy so I still had the bottle of slick 50 in the garage and I said what the hell and added it to the oil with no change what so ever, but 3 days later today I left to go to work and the tapping is completely gone and the engine is running completely smooth. I have to say the slick50 is responsible for it. I called slick50 to ask about harm to my engine and the man said the stuff is 80% oil and no harm will be caused to my engine and if anything was to occur that I can prove their product is responsible they will cover all damages, so I must stand by this product..

Sucker born every minute.

Sorry but you are wrong, the Slick50 did nothing.

The synthetic oil is probably what stopped the tapping once it cleaned the sludge out of the lifter. Too bad you didn't give it a chance to do its job.

Slick50 is not an oil cleaner and couldn't have done what you think it could have done. Also, if it was the cure, it would have taken 3 days for it to work. Plus how can you say that the slick50 did it?

You just wasted your good synthetic oil change by adding a scam that will actually degrade your premium oil.

[Rick1488]

Come on BlazerLt, I know you have your way of doing things which probably have served you well and I have my way of doing things. I gave your way 3 days and the tapping was getting louder and I didn't want anymore harm done to the engine. I really like my blazer despite all the money it cost me in repairs. I gave the slick50 a chance so I can make my own opinion on the product and after using it it's been good. I can't say for sure the slick50 fixed it or your idea fixed it either way the lifter is working again. I wont add it to my engine again unless there is a problem cause I don't really support additives that much. On another note I disagree with a gas additive improving gas mileage that you seem to swear by. I don't think your a "Sucker" for buying into it as there are many factors involved that could have improved you gas mileage. Lets just agree to disagree.

I read your post about the head gasket and I have to say if you own a Blazer it Will happen to yeah if you own the truck long enough. My head gasket blew I think 2 months after I bought it and it cost me a bundle having it fixed. I want to say this the decision for GM to cancel further development of the blazer and focus on the future of the trail blazer was a good one because all we own is a whining money hungry woman. Gm is a company on it's last leg for sticking us with crap while the imports are keeping people happy. I have only owned GM vehicles because It's the only alternative to turning my back on this countries workmanship and going to an import, but the way things are looking my next vehicle will be engineered by the Japanese.