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#1
11-15-2005, 07:45 AM
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brake locked
i have another problem....on my 98 camaro, me and my cousin changed the brakes on it, they are 4 wheel disc incase anyone doesnt know.... after a few days of having the new brakes on the drivers rear brake locked and thats the only one that has done that. the ebrake isnt set. after a couple minutes of driving the rotors are way too hot to touch. my question is what would cause this and/or how do you adjust them and how do i need to adjust them? thanks!!
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#2
11-15-2005, 09:31 AM
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Re: brake locked
If they are locking with pressure being applied , first check the hose condition on that side and then replace the caliper if the hose appears to be fine but it is still locking.
__________________
RIP Hypsi - I just want to express I will never be the same after having lost such a good friend. You meant alot to me and I feel I am a better person for having known you. Til the day we meet again my friend you will always be in my heart. Mods: Weight reduction (I don't wear underwear)
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#3
11-15-2005, 09:39 AM
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Re: brake locked
the brake is locked without pressure....ive got the car up in the air and i put it in neutral and tried turning the driver rear wheel and its all i can do to turn it....its rubbing the whole time and moves very slow...thanks!
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#4
11-15-2005, 10:45 PM
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Re: brake locked
it didnt start doing this until after we changed the brakes....this morning we bled the brakes and everything seemed okay and i drove the car for a couple of miles and everything seemed okay so i came back home and parked the car and left this evening and after about 5 miles it started making this horrible noise again so i stopped and the rotors were extremely hot and the brake was locking again....i wonder if the brake line has collapsed on the inside or if the caliper is bad? what else could cause this? thanks!
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#6
11-16-2005, 12:25 PM
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Re: brake locked
everything seemed okay on it when we changed it....everything was fine before except the pads were wore really bad. I replaced the brake line this morning and thats not the problem so i guess im gonna go change the caliper....hope that works!!
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#7
11-16-2005, 01:27 PM
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Re: brake locked
update: i went out and bled the brakes and its still rubbing all the time....so we bled all the brakes and as long as the car is off the brake pedal seems to hold good pressure and as soon as i start the car the pedal goes straight to the floorboard. i pumped up the brakes and they hold pressure for about 2 seconds then it goes back to the floorboard. there are no leaks in the lines and there is plenty of fluid. when the car is started and you pump up the brakes and hold it and it goes to the floorboard the RPM's start jumping up and down then after a few seconds settles down to where the RPM's should be. any ideas on what to check next? thanks!!
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#14
11-16-2005, 01:56 PM
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Re: brake locked
sounds like the caliper seized. take it back off, and use a metal file to rub down the contact patch between the two parts, then apply some silicone to the surfaces and put it back together again. you dont need to go nuts with the metal file, but theres probly some corrosion or rust there that would cause the calipers to bind.
__________________
 Chevrolet Camaro - I enjoy beating the hell out of people   http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=68052
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#15
11-16-2005, 02:56 PM
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Just a longshot, but is it possible you guys crimped both rear brake hoses somehow? Because brake hoses are actually made up of a hose inside a hose. when the inner lining splits open once you press the brake, it puts pressure at the wheel piston, but when you let off the brake, the internal break will seal off, leaving fluid from the split part of the line to the wheel piston.
This would explain why your pedal sinks after a few seconds: you are pumping and pumping more fluid into the line(which is flowing out of the inner hose but not being let out by the outter hoses) until the hose(s) are full which results in your low pedal until you pump it. And a way to check the vacuum booster is this: 1. with the car OFF, pump up the brake pedal continuously until it gets really hard 2. hold pressure on the pedal 3. start the car 4. the pedal should go down now that manifold vacuum is present if the pedal never gets hard or doesn't go down like it should, then look at the booster.
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-Tony- Sold my Z28 looong ago. Now sporting an '03 TJ. 
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