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#1
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I bought this good looking Ford windstar V6 3.8L from a dealer on the condition AS IS.
Unfortunately I bought the van without consulting someone else (expert) because the price was so attractive. The only obvious things I noticed that were wrong was that the ABS light and the brake lights were on. ANY suggestions ? I thought I could have it fixed by a local repair shop. The brakes were actually working fine and the tranny was shifting smooth. Few days after we got the van, it started stalling on the road for no apparent reason, specially after a stop or a traffic light (low rpms?). I brought it to a local repair shop for complete diagnostic. I was informed that a brake valve (available only at the dealer), a tune-up with new wireset, a new drivebelt and a new air filter would take care of the problems. Huge estimate....$$$ Obviously, I only paid for the diagnostic (~$86) and decided to take care of it myself using a Haynes manual. I bought some tools and the parts (except for the brake valve) and within a day, following the instructions in the manual, I completed the work (saving over $400). While exploring the engine, here is what I discovered: The coolant had a strange color (dirty?) and seemed contaminated and the engine oil seemed to have lost its viscoity (I changed the oil recently!) and appear black. However, I have not noticed a drop in the level of the coolant tank since I bought the car. What could the problem be? Someone told me that they might have put a stop leak in the coolant just so that they could sell it and maybe there is this "famous headgasket problem" with the car (I am nervous about this). Is there a way to easily find out if that is the case, specially for a novice like me? Does anyone know of the least expensive way to replace them if that is the case? Are there recall on the 1998? I read the recall on the 1995. I can not find any apparent leak from the exhaust. Also the other day, the oil pressure light started flickering but then dissappeared. If you have any suggestions or ideas or have experienced such problems (as minor as it might seem to be), PLEASE do not hesitate to reply. Your help is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance. |
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#2
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Re: Windstar dirty coolant...oil and ABS light on...Help
Did the oil light only flicker when you turned the wheel?
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#3
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Re: Windstar dirty coolant...oil and ABS light on...Help
That is absolutely correct. The oil light campe up when I turned the wheel. It then goes a way after a while. Steering wheel problems?
Is it linked to the oil pressure in anyway? THANKS for your help. |
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#4
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Re: Re: Windstar dirty coolant...oil and ABS light on...Help
I had a problem with my power steering pump. My wife made a very sudden and sharp turn inot a parking place which caused the van to stall. FOund out that because of this, the pressure relief valve in the power steering was shot, and now everytime you turn the wheel the while at stop or at slow sppeds( backing up etc) the light flickers on. Once the RPMS are bought back up it goes away. I replaced the pump, problem gone.
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#5
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Re: Re: Windstar dirty coolant...oil and ABS light on...Help
Thank you so much for your post.
I will try changing the pump tomorrow by following the Haynes instructions. Any specific warnings when changing the pump? Did any of the other problems mentionned above sound familiar to you? Dirty coolant for example? Cheers, |
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#6
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Re: Windstar dirty coolant...oil and ABS light on...Help
I have a '96 windstar.
I keep some Bars Stop Leak in the coolant all the time. If you only have a slight leak...as I did....the Stop Leak should keep it at bay. I would change the coolant....stay way from chemical cleaners...and add some Bar's stop leak....in the amount for the capacity of the cooling system. The Brake Master cylinder must be kept full right up to the line. Even slightly low will light up the light. Wheel sensors can also cause the ABS light to come on. There are a lot of posts about the gap being too big......and a few other issues. Maybe the back ones have some brake dust & dirt built up....and a good cleaning with some brake cleaner would help. If replacing power steering pump. You will need to be VERY careful to avoid getting any fluid onto the belt or pulleys.....it WILL ruin the new belt that you just put in. You will need to get a power steering pump pulley removal tool. You will need to get the correct power steering fluid....which I think is Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid for your year......changing all the power steering fluid would be a good idea. Mobil 1 ATF is Mercon rated.....and is a very good synthetic that will hold up well. You will need to be VERY carefull with the high pressure fluid line......it is metal.....can be difficult to line up and screw into the pump....you do not want to cross thread it...and strip the threads. You will want to remove the alternator to reduce the weight ...and get more access to the pump. You will remove the pump and pump / alternator bracket as 1 unit. 3 15mm bolts hold the bracket to the engine. 3 15mm bolts hold the pump into the bracket. I have pictures from my '96 that show power steering pump replacement, brakes (showing the ABS sensors), and a few other things at http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK |
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