6-bolt swap, test drive, some issues, please read:

[Shpyder]

The SBR 6-bolt is in. With the cams, it sounded like a V8. Cabin vibrations were much worse than I thought, because of the prothane motor mounts. The car has been driven around the block several times, been idled for several hours, though of course, it hasnt been completely broken in yet.



1)In the image of the stock 7-bol,t above, the circled red sensor attached to the 2G intake manifold before the swap. The 1G intake manifold does not have a place to plug it in, and it's giving me a code. What do I do with that sensor?

2) The blow-off valve does not squeel or whistle like before, it flutters, even though the screw has not be adjusted since the shop got it. The new turbo is an EvoIII. The car dies after acceleration is stopped, stalling, exactly as if I was venting to atmosphere, even though the type-s is recirculated. Any ideas?

3) We put the stock 7-bolt timing belt cover back on, but it rubs a little during startup. Do you guys reccomend getting a 6-bolt t-belt cover?

4) What do I set the timing at for this new 6-bolt motor?

[defiancy]

1. Why didn't you leave the 2g manifold on there and maybe port it out a little. How much difference is the 1g manifold going to make over the 2g. I'm just curious to actually know that. Also won't the 2g mani, bolt up to the 1g engine?


2. With the bov, you might need to readjust it for the new turbo. I'm not to sure, I would try to adjust it and see if you can get it dialed in, that may be the problem with your car dying as well.

3. Yes. Get a new cover, unless you want your belt to wear down, get frayed or possibly break during operation from wear.

4. Can't help ya there.

[2of9]

you should ask the people who installed it for you.

[Shpyder]

Originally Posted by Silver_GTR34

you should ask the people who installed it for you.

Don't leave a reply if it's a half-baked effort simply to increase your post count. This is what the forums are for, thankyou very much.

[scottsee]

I've never really had the need to use this website before other then just looking around the engine bay.
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/
Manifold differential pressure sensor. I don't know anything about that in the 1g, or how to fix your CEL if that is indeed what code is beeing thrown.

Your stalling sounds like either a large boost leak, or fuel problem. have you narrowed it down further then when you last posted?

yeah, as you found out the upper and lower 2g cover wont work.

Base timing is still 5 deg. now that you have a 6bolt you can actually set base timing, unlike 2g's where you have to ground the ECU to do it.


defiancy: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/1G-2G_intake.html

[scottsee]

Congrats, was that a stroker you got off SBR ebay?

[Shpyder]

Originally Posted by scottsee

Congrats, was that a stroker you got off SBR ebay?

It's the high compression SBR one from EBay, but they hooked up their "stage III" head, with comp cams and sptrings/retainers.

Well, the stalling was infact a vaccum issue ( I noticed that because it stalled almost as if I was venting). The BOV was routed wrong (BOV vac line to air intake, instead of the intake manifold). I just set the base timing too (slightly off). It runs and idles much, much better now. I will have to install a resonator though; it's too loud, almost like I'm running no mufflers.

I'll need to do some more research on what to do with that sensor. It's just sitting there right now, lol.

The stock 2G timing cover was used (upper). It scrapes the belt on start up. I do not want to have the cam gears naked under the hood... a stock 1G cover should fit fine, right? Almost everyone I messaged just ditched the cover, but I want one.

PS, scottsee, that was an EXCELLENT link, with the "virtual tour" thing. Great find!

[defiancy]

Originally Posted by Shpyder

I'll need to do some more research on what to do with that sensor. It's just sitting there right now, lol.

If you can try checking the wiring diagrams. There may be a way that you can short it out, or just wire two of the wires together and bridge the gap that may have been what the sensort was doing and get rid of your cel. I mean if the sensor was that important it would be on the 1g manifold too right?

[-Josh-]

It's an OBDII sensor. It wasn't around during the OBDI 6 bolt.

[ted_ex]

I thought that was the MAP sensor that needed to be installed on the 1G intake manifold. I might be wrong though. Check here if you haven't already.
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/article_1g2g.htm#

[ted_ex]

Here's a pic of the 6 bolt swap in my brother's car. You can see the sensor attached to the intake manifold.

[Shpyder]

How'd you get that on there? Drill a new hole or something? Magnus says, "2G MAP: sensor either in Intake Mani or T-d off of Brake booster Vac line." I wonder if the second option will throw a code. If it does, I'll have to do what you did above.

[-Josh-]

I would go through the vacuum booster line. I dont think the sensor readings would be as accurate. Manifold Absolute Pressure should be taken at the manifold, not the vacuum line.

[97_3clipse]

FYI that just a sensor for the EGR , you DO NOT need it if your running no emissions. it dose not affect the charestics and runing ablitly of your car in any way. thats why i dont run one.
http://roadraceengineering.com/1g2gheadswaptechtip.htm
quote from RRE "If you are going to be keeping the EGR system, a chunk of aluminum needs to be fabricated to bolt the MAP sensor to and that piece gets welded on top of the "EFI MULTI" on the 1G manifold. Its only purpose is to check EGR operation.
If you toss the EGR, just make a EGR block off plate. "

[ted_ex]

Damn, I stand corrected. We didn't do the swap. My brother bought it with the motor already swapped in. Good information though.