Automotive Paint Help

[white97ex]

Ok.

I'm having tons of trouble with this new plastic. And not finding Crisp answers. I've had trouble finding veriprime. A few people have said something about automotive primer. Are you guys referring to a PPG or Dupont 2 part primer. If so, how is it mixed? I would recommend PPG because dupont is only available at the O'Reilly's and I WONT do business with them. If I can't get a suitable automotive primer I'll go with the cobra colors stuff. Since I've spent so much on other projects so far this year, my budget is running tight. So if I can get a larger volume that will cost less in the long run, that is the route I'm going to have to take. I'm just about at a stand still with my mustang until I can get a suitable primer....and I havn't dove into the body work of the Camaro yet. any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

[JTRACING]

i always use primer from the hardware store. $1.99 for a big spray can. works good with the duplicolor paint.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Like I said before, you can use just about any automotive primer and paint if you use a sealer. You can use Variprime (make sure it's mixed all the way and you need to apply it between coats of lacquer primer, and wait 24 hours or so before applying lacquer primer over it if you want it to completely block the thinners from eating the plastic), and Zinsser B-I-N shellac base primer/sealer/stain killer is a fantastic alternative. It's sold at Home Depot and Lowe's (and probably other places), it's much cheaper than Variprime, and much less toxic.

Just apply a thin coat of regular primer on the bare plastic (automotive or Tamiya), then apply the Zinsser, then you can sand the Zinsser (it sands just like other primers) and/or apply more primer or paint. I tried it on a new Mustang, it works beautifully. The same primer/paint that crazed the plastic on the first one didn't craze it after the Zinsser was applied to the second one. A spray can is about $5.50 and a quart can that you mix/thin is about $8.50. You need to airbrush it either way, the spray can isn't precise enough for good results.

I don't recommend getting a 2-part primer unless you are religious about both keeping your spray equipment perfectly clean after painting and you're religious about wearing the proper breathing apparatus because all 2-part paints, including Variprime, are extremely toxic when breathed.

[white97ex]

my concern though, is when I spray the automotive primer it is crazing the plasitic. Is the zinsser thick enough to even out the crazing?

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by white97ex

my concern though, is when I spray the automotive primer it is crazing the plasitic. Is the zinsser thick enough to even out the crazing?

Yes. If it didn't I wouldn't have recommended it. You airbrush a light coat of lacquer primer onto the plastic; it might craze a little. You just need enough on the plastic to stick to the plastic, since Zinsser doesn't stick well to the plastic.

Yes, my light coat of primer crazed the body slightly. The Zinsser covered over it, sanded smoothly, and subsequent coats of primer/paint revealed zero etching/crazing.

I've had Variprime fail on me, so I'm not the best judge of it's performance. Cobra Colors VX primer is a lot like Variprime, it's just mixed as a lacquer and not a 2-part urethane. Others who have used it over new Revell plastic didn't get the etching. Others who have used Variprime didn't get the etching. I used Zinsser and didn't get the etching. Other options may be out there. You have to make a decision at some point and go with it.

[white97ex]

thanks. I was just confused on the base coat of primer.....would it be necessary to arbrush the primer or can it be shake 'n' spray? I'll be picking up the zinsser today. thanks for the help

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by white97ex

thanks. I was just confused on the base coat of primer.....would it be necessary to arbrush the primer or can it be shake 'n' spray? I'll be picking up the zinsser today. thanks for the help

I airbrushed it because I wanted that layer as thin as possible. Because of layering primer/sealer/primer, I don't want to fill in detail. You need to test these things anyway to see what works for you-a light coat from a spray can might be okay. I don't know, I haven't tried it. Dealing w/Revell's new plastic is new to me too.

[white97ex]

thanks for all of your help......I fixed the crazing on my vette by sanding it out through consecutive coats of primer. So its not like the body will be completely ruined. I'll make sure I rescribe the panel lines before any paint is applied.

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Originally Posted by white97ex

thanks for all of your help......I fixed the crazing on my vette by sanding it out through consecutive coats of primer. So its not like the body will be completely ruined. I'll make sure I rescribe the panel lines before any paint is applied.

You should still consider sealing the primer on there now, because subsequent coats of automotive lacquers (or even Tamiya sprays) can and will cause problems to resurface, especially ghosting of mold lines you removed. Once the plastic has had that kind of damage, any further lacquers can still cause problems all the way to the final clearcoat. You have to be proactive when you're dealing w/this new Revell plastic, either use mild hobby paints or use sealers/primers that block lacquer damage.

[white97ex]

thanks. I saw that with the corvette. the crazing kept showing up. I was finally able to get enough coats of paint on, along with sanding out the damage to get a smooth finish. In that last post, I just meant that If the sealer method I try on the first go round doesn't provide the results I want, It wont be a total loss with the body work, since I have fixed it before. It will just be more time consuming. We should really think about creating a thread dedicated to the new plastic, and everyone's method of painting and put it in the how to or the FAQ that way it is always there, easily accessible for future reference