dakota wont start

[jon_norris]

i have a 93 dodge dakota 3.9 5spd 2wd. for the past month or two its been stalling and mostly won't start for 30 minutes to hours, and getting worse, ive replaced the distributor cap and rotor, coil, and crank sensor since it started. when i turn the key i dont hear the fuel pump and there's no check engine light on. its also not firing. when its does crank i hear the fuel pump and the check engine light comes on the goes off like normal. the oil pressure gauge goes up and then falls back down when the oil light comes on before the truck is cranked. any idea's?

[jon_norris]

p.s. it does turn over

[Dakota00]

are you getting fuel to the motor?? That's where I would look

[jon_norris]

Originally Posted by Dakota00

are you getting fuel to the motor?? That's where I would look

no fuel to the engine, pouring gas in the throttle bottle doenst help either

[1thunder]

check under your fuse box under the hood remove 2 bolts and push pin holding box in place and move box then remove about a foot of tape from the harness below the box and look for wire splice with red/and white tracer wires in harness under box then pull on these wires this splice normally rots out or turns green resolder all the wires back together and problems solved

[jon_norris]

i am getting the fault code 12, and the wires that u describe have no corrosion.

[1thunder]

code 12 is a battery disconnect code that pops up 95% of the time when checking codes what you need to do is measure your volts at asd and fuel pump relays under load on the coil feed and pin 30 for battery voltage under load you did say pouring fuel in throttle body doesn't help so you're also loosing spark so if you are confident that all the sensors are good you either have faulty pcm or wiring {grounds good}??? correct me if im wrong but im assuming that when you're engine lamp doesn't come on the engine won't start?????

[jon_norris]

true, when the check engine light doesnt come on the truck wont run, ive replaced a few sensors and swapped out the fuel pump relay w/ the a/c relay but it didnt help

[jon_norris]

where can i get a good pcm for not alot of money?

[1thunder]

Hey Jon just make sure that the voltage is good at these relays under load i know you have a DVOM and seem to know how to use it because i have seen this problem at least 100 times on this particular model and year different PCM won't work either if the voltage is not right i'm just trying to avoid a costly mistake for you i am a dealer tech and this is my specialty and seen this over looked by many techs and cause an unecesary cost {i'm noy doubting your abillity to check but just urging you to make sure this isn't the problem}

[jon_norris]

what shoulkd the voltage be and if its not right what would be the source of the problem, i have knocked on the cat. conv. and heard rattling, do u think this could cause my problems?

[1thunder]

the voltage should be battery voltage {12v} and if not reckeck this red/wt wire splice remove tape from splice end visually look at it and if the cat is plugged it will not stop the spark or fuel pump you can remove the upstream o2 sensor to help breath the engine to see if exhaust is plugged

[jon_norris]

i checked the voltage at the relays and battery and they were 12, but the truck was having no problems when i checked them, i also rechecked the wires and they still have no corrosion. ill check the voltage tommorow when the truck wont start.

[jon_norris]

i am now getting a code 33 and 42

[1thunder]

yes 33 is an a/c relay code but i do believe 42 is autoshutdown relay code and must check wiring as pcm is not receiving asd voltage or not able to read voltage when activated did you measure volts at these relays when circuit is under load this is extremely important?