Transmission Weight

[RED1996]

I am replacing the clutch in a 1986 S10 Blazer. Does anyone know the weight of the 5 speed transmission with the transfer case attached?

Thanks, Dave

[maxwedge]

I'd guess 150-200, very unwieldy too.

[OverBoardProject]

I really don't think that they weigh that much, but you'll want to suport the weight of the transmission on a floor jack

The cast iron 4 speeds that I used to change probably weighed closer to 80 lbs when full and with the bell housing bolts on.
Yours shouldn't weigh muck more than those and it's probably even lighter

[MagicRat]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

I really don't think that they weigh that much, but you'll want to suport the weight of the transmission on a floor jack

The cast iron 4 speeds that I used to change probably weighed closer to 80 lbs when full and with the bell housing bolts on.
Yours shouldn't weigh muck more than those and it's probably even lighter

Remember, this has the transfer case attached, so its approximatly double the weight of a transmission on its own.
IMO maxwedge is correct, at about 150 lbs..

Also, as Overboard says, use a floor jack. It's difficult to do the transmission bench-press by hand and get the bolts in at the same time.

[OverBoardProject]

Sory I never thought of the T case.

With 4 wheel drive it's sometimes easier to pull the motor to replace the clutch.

I don't know which 1 is easier in this case

[RED1996]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

Sory I never thought of the T case.

With 4 wheel drive it's sometimes easier to pull the motor to replace the clutch.

I don't know which 1 is easier in this case

I am starting to think pulling the engine may have been easier. I have the transmission balanced on the floor jack and I have pushed it back until it hits the crossmember for the torsion bar. The pilot bearing journal of the input shaft hasn't cleared the hole in the bell housing yet. It is like the transmission/transfer case assembly is too long.

It took a long time to unhook everything, including both shifters, the transmission crossmember, the catalytic converter support and the drive shafts. I have about six or seven hours into it and the bellhousing is still bolted to the engine. It is raining today and I am working in a dirt driveway so not much is going to get done on the clutch project.

It balances on a floor jack pretty evenly but I think it will make sense to use a transmission jack to put it back in. My daughters boyfriend said he could borrow one for me.

[OverBoardProject]

I know that I would have pulled the motor, but that's just me. Especially if I was working on dirt.
It's easier to roll the truck away from the hanging motor, than to roll the floor jack / transmission out from underneeth.

The only way that I've found to get those top bell housing bolts is to remove the bolts from the motor mount, and lower the motor a little.

I would think that you've got the hardest part done now.

If you have to remove the motor mounts to get the bell housing bolts out why not also remove the rad, and use a engine hoist to move the motor forward a little.
This should allow the transmission to slip out.

I know that it's a pain in the butt working on dirt driveways in the rain. I've done that way too many times and won't do it again.
A cheap alternative is buy some of those cheap 2'x2' cement blocks and make a little pad.

Have fun

[RED1996]

I am committed to the transmission removal at this point.

I think I just made a big mistake. I rolled the jack back towards the rear end. It is on a 3/4 inch piece of plywood so it rolls easy enought. I kept the jack up high so the transmission was basically level. I put the out put shaft on top of the crossmember for the torsion bars and am finding I can't go far enough back to get the input shaft out of the bell housing hole. will it come out this way? It seem like you can't angle the tailshaft down when you pull it out because it will be at too much of angle. Should I have gone tailshaft down? Dave

[OverBoardProject]

It's a little hard for me to say, unless I'm there to see.

You can safely really hang the transmission down at a pretty steep angle though.
The problem with this is it's harder to line everything back up later.

This is the 1 time that I prefer Automatic's, since you don't have any splines to line up

[chevyn0va1]

Originally Posted by RED1996

I am committed to the transmission removal at this point.

I think I just made a big mistake. I rolled the jack back towards the rear end. It is on a 3/4 inch piece of plywood so it rolls easy enought. I kept the jack up high so the transmission was basically level. I put the out put shaft on top of the crossmember for the torsion bars and am finding I can't go far enough back to get the input shaft out of the bell housing hole. will it come out this way? It seem like you can't angle the tailshaft down when you pull it out because it will be at too much of angle. Should I have gone tailshaft down? Dave

we are in the exact situation as you we left the shift in place but took the chrome and ball off the shifter and it seem that the 5 speed shift is holding the transmission/t case setup from going all the way back. I'm thinking of trying to rotate the case) so that the shift lever goes into the 4 wheel shifter cut out in the floor and then lower it more.

[dugie6551]

If you guys can post a picture of your trans situations ... we might be able to help you out.