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#1
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I have the brake caliper and arm off. The top and lower ball joints are removed from the arm, I drilled out the top rivets and removed the top ball joint.
The problem is the lower ball joint will not come out of the bottom hole. I wailed on it with a 3 pound sledge for 15 minutes but it didn't move. Is there a secret to removing this? It is about 3 inches across so there's no way a pickle fork/press will fit in there. It apears to be pressed it. The new one has perpendicular ridges on it where it goes through this hole. Any advice out there? It's up on jackstands and I'm covered in grease scratching my head...and I'm an experienced mechanic!! Just not on these american trucks.... |
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#2
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Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
go to advance or autozone and grab a balljoint press from their loan-a-tool program (its free)
__________________
![]() ![]() 95 s10 Blazer, EGR Mod, ZQ8 Steering box mod, 99 Center console shifter mod and more... See everything at www.pghconsulting.net/teal |
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#3
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Re: Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
I have the ball joint removed from the arm already, the arm is off the truck. The ball joint is stuck in the lower suspension. I've seen these presses and they appear to be made for removing the ball joint from the arm. Should I take a picture and post it?
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#4
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Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
Ahh, I misunderstood.... Use a pickle fork..
__________________
![]() ![]() 95 s10 Blazer, EGR Mod, ZQ8 Steering box mod, 99 Center console shifter mod and more... See everything at www.pghconsulting.net/teal |
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#5
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Re: Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
???? The ball joint is 3 inches wide where it goes through. Do they make forks 3 inches wide?
I don't have access to that tool, should I continue to wail on it with the sledge? Quote:
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#6
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Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
Where the balljoint is going into the base of the knuckle spindle is where its stuck right? You just wedge the fork between the knuckle and the base of the ball joint and whack it...(unless I'm missing something here)
__________________
![]() ![]() 95 s10 Blazer, EGR Mod, ZQ8 Steering box mod, 99 Center console shifter mod and more... See everything at www.pghconsulting.net/teal |
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#7
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Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
If it is stuck in the control arm, usually a hammer works.... just knock the hell out of it and go in a circular motion around the outside edge of the ball joint. The ball joint is pressed in from the bottom, so you have to hit the top of it to get it out.
If the ball joint stud is stuck in the steering knuckle/spindle/hub (whatever you choose to call it).... a pickle fork should do the job. If it is being real stubborn you can use the pickle fork to apply pressure to it and then tap the stud and it should pop loose. |
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#8
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Re: Re: HELP!!!!!Lower Ball Joint Removal on 94 Sonoma 2WD
Yeah, I figured out an important step, actually my neighbor and I figured it out, brace the bottom of the control arm with a jack. Then use a cutoff blade and cut the ball joint arm in half. Then place a big socket over the top and hit it hard about three times with a three pound sledge hammer. It falls out quite quickly. If you sit there and hit it without supporting the lower control arm, all it does is bounce and absorbs the hammer's blows. A pickle fork and press are absolutely worthless in getting the lower ball joint out of the control arm because they are both not wide enough. I'm sure GMC/Chevy sells some kind of special $400 tool that only dealers have; you don't need it. This is what sucks about working on American vehicles, the engineers make it as difficult as possible for the average person to work on them.
To reinstall the lower ball joint, place a big socket under the joint (to protect the zirc fitting) and jack it up until it sits flush with the control arm; even on all sides. Then hit the top of the control arm with a hammer, evenly on all sides, making sure it seats equally as it goes up into the control arm. Once it is flush, secure it with the washer, nut, and cotter pin. If anyone has any questions about how to do this job, please e-mail me and I'll help out in any way I can. Once I figured out one side, the other went 3 times faster. I still can't believe this is the first time this has been covered on this site, but it's cool I can possibly use this info to possibly help someone like myself. Thanks to all that wrote and at least tried to help, you put us on the right track. Lee Quote:
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#9
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This thread is closed!
slonoma00 is on permant vacation
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Why do you never have enough time or money to do the job right the first time, but enough time and money to do it again? Got all the certifications 25 years ASE Certified Master Technician GM WCT Yea..I work at a DEALERSHIP....got a problem with that? Want to diagnose cars like the Pros? FOR SALE: OTC Perception 2 channel Labscope (badged as a Matco Reality) This is my personal labscope that I use to diagnose waveforms, like new, comes with leads and training video PM Me for details |
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