lifter ticking maybe

Nocturnall · #1 11-03-2005, 11:06 PM

Noticed today as I wanted to shoot myself while fixing the ebrakes and bleeding the new calipers I bought that my motor has developed a tick. I'm thinking of just getting a valve job done, just wondering what I would be looking at for a good valve job.

AzTumbleweed · #2 11-04-2005, 05:48 AM

My thinking on this is if it works don't fix it. If you have one bad lifter why pull the head off? My 1.9 has always been a little noisy. Has never gotten any worse though. I think that my 'ticking' is worn rod bearings though. If you do have a bad lifter it would especially be noticeable at start-up. Is your's louder at start-up? SAve your money for gasoline

dlbdata · #3 11-04-2005, 06:56 AM

Or if the ticking really annoys you, you can try to isolate which lifter it is. I had one lifter that felt noticably worn. Taking the lifters out and spinning the roller, 1 lifter was noticeably rough compared to the others. I bought 1 replacement lifter for about $20, put it in, and the noise was gone. It was a gamble whether this was a signthat the other lifters were going to start developing problems soon also, but its been 10k miles or so, and all is well.

Nocturnall · #4 11-04-2005, 08:44 AM

Next fall I'm gonna be starting college so my aim is to get this car running as perfect as I can now while I have a bunch of money to spare. I've even been thinking of getting the new head from corksport.com but that's a little pricey unless of course I'm looking at 700 - 1000K to get this one in good condition in which case I'll just buy the new one.

Lynde · #5 11-04-2005, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nocturnall

Next fall I'm gonna be starting college so my aim is to get this car running as perfect as I can now while I have a bunch of money to spare. I've even been thinking of getting the new head from corksport.com but that's a little pricey unless of course I'm looking at 700 - 1000K to get this one in good condition in which case I'll just buy the new one.

I had a similar concern, could have sworn it was a lifter, it was a loose spark plug, just go through the basic checks first before you throw down a bunch of cash.

Arnoldtheskier · #6 11-04-2005, 07:47 PM

AZ..I found that when I switched to Penzoil..(tried it because it was on sale) that it made a difference in engine noise..went from very little to zero! same viscosity..10/30. If you have noise maybe try it..OR Quaker State Diesel oil..HDX 15/40. This the best oil for gasoline engines period.I mean look what it is designed for..(says h/d gas engines too)read the label.H/D commercial diesel engines.This stuff will stand up to BEATINGS that make most so called race oils look useless.Ya..takes all your horsepower just to turn it too..LOL..bad competitive race oil.Too tough.VERY common fleet/heavy equipment oil.Might cost ya some mpg (pours from the jug like glue) and not so sure you'd get through an emmissions test with this stuff... same price as other oils.You're in az sooo..maybe you could get away with the 15.If mine ever starts any noise I will run the diesel oil too.Just that right now..even hot/summer..a 10/30 is more than adequate.Actually so is a 5 for me..no noise..leakage/burning..I just feel better with at least a 10. This diesel oil is simply WAY too thick for cold starts.Gave me the heebie jeebies EVERY time I ever started a cold engine with it.I used to run everything I ever owned on this stuff. Seems to congeal differently or somethin' BAAD at cold temps.Makes regular 20 even 30 seem like varsol..even though it is rated at a 15. I used to run this stuff in fleets in the winter and man OH MAN..on cold starts did those engines ever sound BAAAAD. Never had any problems though..even with ski high oil pressure. Never made stuff bleed.. like varsol like sythetic! Engine life went up considerablly with this stuff.

AzTumbleweed · #7 11-05-2005, 04:56 AM

I like the heavy-duty diesel oils except for, like you pointed out, the cold start-ups. I ran some all summer. But what I used was Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic. I think it was $13 at Wal-Mart. Interestingly, I read a Ford Technical Bulletin that said they now recommend 5W20 oil for all Escorts. In fact, that's recommended for all Ford gasoline engines from the early 90's up. My next oil change I will try something heavier though to see if my engine will run quieter. I've always used Wal-Mart brand 'Tech' moror oil. It's made by Conoco. As a mechanic told me once,"Why pay extra for the pretty yellow bottle?".

I love this Yuma weather. (Been here 2 months.) Supposed to be 85 today. How's Canada?

chevyn0va1 · #8 11-05-2005, 06:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AzTumbleweed

I like the heavy-duty diesel oils except for, like you pointed out, the cold start-ups. I ran some all summer. But what I used was Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic. I think it was $13 at Wal-Mart. Interestingly, I read a Ford Technical Bulletin that said they now recommend 5W20 oil for all Escorts. In fact, that's recommended for all Ford gasoline engines from the early 90's up. My next oil change I will try something heavier though to see if my engine will run quieter. I've always used Wal-Mart brand 'Tech' moror oil. It's made by Conoco. As a mechanic told me once,"Why pay extra for the pretty yellow bottle?".

I love this Yuma weather. (Been here 2 months.) Supposed to be 85 today. How's Canada?

I have used the castrol gtx high mileage oil and i'll tell ya it works well and quiets down the motor noise alot. I recommened it.

Davescort97 · #9 11-05-2005, 06:46 AM

[quote=chevyn0va1]I have used the castrol gtx high mileage oil and i'll tell ya it works well and quiets down the motor noise alot. I recommened it.[/QUOTE

I switched over from regular Castrol to high mileage 5-30. It runs quieter and a rear main seal that was producing a drip occasionally
has now sealed up. It's good stuff!

Nocturnall · #10 11-05-2005, 04:35 PM

I checked my spark plugs and that wasn't it. Putting in an oil to quiet the motor is all well and good but if something is not working how it's supposed to I would rather fix it and have everything running right rather then wait for it to break, then the car dies, then I get to pay the towing fee's to get the car back, on top of fixing the original problem, which hopefully didn't cause any other costly problems.

AzTumbleweed · #11 11-05-2005, 04:58 PM

A good quality motor oil might fix the problem. Hydraulic lifters expand by using oil pressure. This compensates for wear on the valve stem and cam shaft. If you get dirt in the hole that the oil goes in then the lifter can collapse and make the ticking sounds. Frankly, you sound like your set on spending some money though.

Nocturnall · #12 11-06-2005, 07:07 AM

I've been torn between a new car and keeping this one, I'm making the most I've ever made in my life and I'm about to start a 4yr hell period of life going to college and working a real messed up, 12hr shifts night schedule so the last thing I want is this car having a problem during that time because it would be oh so bad. Normally I wouldn't be so adament about it but I just don't wanna risk a dead car in between working all night and school all day and homework when I should be sleeping. I'm even concidering looking into rebuilding the whole motor but that's a bit beyond me and I hate the idea of trusting someone else with doing anything on my car....especially when I'm not standing right there.

AzTumbleweed · #13 11-06-2005, 10:03 AM

If it's just 'ticking' and not knocking then I wouldn't worry about it. Save your money then you can buy another car if you have to. My engine has always rattled a little. Has never gotten any worse. Sometimes the ticking you hear is the fuel injectors firing. My advice: Leave it be and drive it 'til the wheels fall off!

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