Front end clunk, $300.00 in parts later

red88gt · #1 10-31-2005, 09:51 AM

I started off with a loud clunk in the front end when I turned the steering wheel back & forth. The ball joint on one side was moving up & down (obviously bad) & the tie rod end on the other side had a lot of slop (obviously bad). Replaced both on both sides, still clunking. The clunk sounded like the outer CV joint & you could feel it clunk when it reached a certain point & it clunked again when you turned back. Replaced both drive axles & CV joints with rebuilt units, still clunking. Both sides clunk & it sounds like it's near the wheel not further in like a steering rack. As you turn the steering wheel, it turns about 1/4 way & then clunks, if you turn it back it clunks again. You can actually see the tire jump. Both sides are the same. The wheel bearings didn't look bad when I had it apart & it doesn't wobble or vibrate. In fact if this clunk didn't scare me, I'd just keep driving because other than that it drives fine. Anybody have any thoughts ? Thanks

cdru · #2 10-31-2005, 10:29 AM

Loose struts/mounts?

red88gt · #3 10-31-2005, 10:38 AM

Nope, it's right at the wheel. Nothing else looks like it's moving.

maxwedge · #4 10-31-2005, 10:44 AM

Sounds like the bearing is moving in the hub, I've seen cheap new ones do this, not dangerous but should be traced down.

LMP · #5 10-31-2005, 11:12 AM

BAll joints and OUTER tie rod ends are new, OK. You did not mention what year model this is, and your ident does not mention anything except a 2002 Trailblazer.....but I suspect this is a pre-1996 Transport model. The way your describe it reminds me that at one time I had to change the INNER tie rod ends. The clunk-clunk did show easily with very little movement of the steering, just a little left and right and it would display a little clunk , and clunk ad nauseam at highway speed with tires that were not perfectly balanced....
This requires removal of the rack and pinion, a job for which I have a description in a previous post....not what one wants for a weekend, but finally, it can be done.

red88gt · #6 10-31-2005, 11:35 AM

Opps, yes it's a 1995 Transport. If I look at it while someone turns the wheel, there doesn't appear to be any movement or clunk from the area of the steering rack / inner tie rod ends. It's all right at the wheel. It certainly seems like the wheel bearing could be moving in & out. I looked at 'em while I had it apart but it was a visual inspection while I spun it & all seemed ok. The bearings have never been changed that I'm aware of & it's got 140,000 on it. Is it common for the bearing to move as my first thought was that it was a bearing as that's exactly where it looks like the movement is but all the cars I've worked on in the past had conventional type front wheel bearings where the nut was tightened down on the spindle preventing any in & out movement.

maxwedge · #7 10-31-2005, 12:38 PM

The bearing itself where it is assembled to the hub and race could could do this, seen it on old ones and as I said , cheap new ones, will only do it with the weight of the car on it.

LMP · #8 10-31-2005, 01:38 PM

I agree that bearings at 140000km are probably overdue. IN fact I have a little less than that on mine, but driver side has been changed twice, first on garantee when the car was about 40000km, second time last year by myself, quite an easy job. It produced a noticeable humming sound in straight line and specially when turning left, and cancelled to nil when turning right, but no clunk. However, right side is still original.

red88gt · #9 10-31-2005, 03:31 PM

I had a 92 Transport before this one and the drivers' side bearing went bad & produced the same hum you're mentioning. It would change pitch and/or go away when steering in one direction. This one is quiet & doesn't vibrate. If it were prone to movement, wouldn't the wheels wobble or at least wander around to road if it's able to move ?

red88gt · #10 11-01-2005, 07:48 AM

Took it in this morning to the alingment shop to see if they could help. Turns out the rack & pinion is bad with the clunk traveling outward causing what looks like the wheel jumping. The alignment guy says he's seen worse and it's really not dangerous with the worse case he's seen is that you loose the power steering. He's willing to line it up if I can live with it but it kinda scares me. It doesn't look like too bad of a job to replace this. Anyone here done one & are there any tips ? Thanks

LMP · #11 11-01-2005, 11:23 AM

Yes done it. Most probably, the sound comes from the inner tie rod ends, and believe me, they make a lot of sound, but this means removing the rack anyway, and if you have to pay for the time of replacing them maybe it is best to just replace the whole thing if it comes complete with the tie rod ends.

BTY, if it comes complete with both inner and outer tie rod ends, keep the outer you have already replaced: one has to be replaced every other year anyway (that is my average).

nicke66 · #12 11-02-2005, 03:52 PM

[quote=LMP]..... but this means removing the rack anyway, and if you have to ...

It is possible to replace the inner tie rod end without removing the rack. This way saves a lot of work and time:

Remove the wheel and the outer tie rod end, as well as the rack boot. Use a thin 20 mm wrench to hold the rack shaft. Use a 40 mm pipe, with a threaded hole and a screw at one end. Thread the pipe over the inner tie rod end and use the screw to fix the pipe to the housing. Use the pipe to unscrew the inner tie rod end from the rack. Do not allow the rack shaft to to rotate, as this will ruin the rack. Install the new inner tie rod end the same way. I have not seen this method in any workshop manual, but it works fine, and save you from a lot of work.

maxwedge · #13 11-02-2005, 04:47 PM

Bad inner tie rods would have play in the steering, do have free play when turning the wheels lt to rt slightly from the straight away position?

LMP · #14 11-03-2005, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nicke66

It is possible to replace the inner tie rod end without removing the rack. This way saves a lot of work and time:

Remove the wheel and the outer tie rod end, as well as the rack boot. Use a thin 20 mm wrench to hold the rack shaft. Use a 40 mm pipe, with a threaded hole and a screw at one end. Thread the pipe over the inner tie rod end and use the screw to fix the pipe to the housing. Use the pipe to unscrew the inner tie rod end from the rack. Do not allow the rack shaft to to rotate, as this will ruin the rack. Install the new inner tie rod end the same way. I have not seen this method in any workshop manual, but it works fine, and save you from a lot of work.

Copy that in my book.......

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