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#1
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Oil Change
Greetings,
I changed my oil myself the other day. Poured in 4.5 quarts...however, the reading is now above the "Good" mark when I check...way above. Do I have to do another oil change? Or can I let some drain out? I know that too much oil can be detrimental to your engine. |
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#2
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Re: Oil Change
did you check it with the engine running? did you check it on a slope? both of those things can majorly affect the reading and throw it off.
__________________
Dr. Disque - Current cars: 2008 BMW 135i M-Sport 2011 Mazda2 Touring Past cars: 2007 Mazda 6S 5-door MT 1999 Ford Taurus SE Duratec |
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#3
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Re: Oil Change
when you jacked the car up to drain the oil, did you lower the car back down while it was draining? or did you leave it up while it drained?
it doesn't seem like you drained all of the oil out. also, have you cranked the car since you changed the oil? |
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#4
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That's exactly what happened to me recently, and I posted a similar question on this forum... I am sure I drained out all the oil from the tank with the bolt and after taking the filter out! I poured 4 qt, and it hits the top notch on the dip stick. I checked it AFTER i ran it for a few days, temp cold, on a flat ground. I really have no idea why, but at least im not the only one...
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#5
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Re: Re: Oil Change
Quote:
i only put 4 qts in when i change it, after 4qts though, i check it and see if there is more that is needed
__________________
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503/2000 |
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#6
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Re: Re: Re: Oil Change
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#7
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Man o' man did I have an eventful weekend. OK...decided to change the oil again (the manual says the oil will aerate and cause engine damage). After changing the oil I started the engine and heard "SPLAAT". Apparently I did not screw the filter on tight enough and almost all the oil came out on the floor. Had to buy more oil, re-tightened the cap and cranked the engine again. It thought all was well, until the oil light started flashing on and off. I thought it might have been the filter (too tight). SO I jacked it up again and adjusted the filter. Still got the light. Checked the oil level...not enough oil...
To say the least, it was a learning experience. Now I know, and knowing is half the battle! ALso, I thought that you were supposed to check the oil when the engine was cranked! Thanks guys...I appreciate your responses. |
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#8
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I did a lot of unecessary work this weekend...I swear my biceps got bigger from jacking up the car so many times.
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#9
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Re: Oil Change
Quote:
sorry to hear about that man. i usually just hand tighten my filter.you can check the oil while the engine is running but it won't give an accurate reading. you will want to crank the car for about 1-2 mins, shut it off, wait about 3-4 mins, then check the oil. this allows the oil to somewhat settle before checking it. |
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#10
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Yeah, for anyone out there that doesnt know this about oil filters.
This is how you know your filter isnt too tight or loose (NEVER!!! use anything besides your hand to tighten a filter, that little doodad to take them off should NEVER be used to put a filter on), first make sure you put a bead of fresh oil on the filter seal, then tighten it just until the seal makes contact with the fitting, then turn the filter 1 complete turn and thats it. It may feel like you can tighten it more, but you dont need to because that can cause oil to leak out due to overtightening. Then fill up your res. and let down your jack. Start your car for a min or 2 to get the oil filter filled up, and turn off the car. Let it sit on level ground for a couple min and check the level. Also, the reason our cars spew oil with the cap off is because we have overhead valves (cars without that can have the cap off and running no problem. aka Mustang V6) I usually just put in 5q because Mobil1 is cheaper in the 5q than buying 5 1q things. My level is usually at the top of fine, but by the time i need another change at 3k it has burned off to the mid/low of fine. Out of curiosity, what oil/filters do you guys use. I use Mobil1 5w30, and FRAM high mileage filter (2000GT with 95k miles...damn shes getting old) Last edited by rodbls; 10-31-2005 at 03:12 PM. |
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#11
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Re: Oil Change
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i use Mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic and a k&n filter. i have heard too many horror stories about FRAM oil filters. |
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#12
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Re: Oil Change
the reason is that you have overhead cams, not overhead valves.
Every car sold since the 60's has had overhead valves.
__________________
Dr. Disque - Current cars: 2008 BMW 135i M-Sport 2011 Mazda2 Touring Past cars: 2007 Mazda 6S 5-door MT 1999 Ford Taurus SE Duratec |
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#13
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Re: Re: Oil Change
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I used the same oil as you guys and I bought my filter from the dealer. During the summertime I should use 10w30 right? Also, I was getting a lot more noise from my lifters when I had the filter on too tight. They are back to normal (light ticking) now. What purpose do the lifters serve? Also, what other maintenance can I do myself? If I don't have to take my car to the dealer I will not. In club3g I even saw a thread for changing your timining belt. Any of you guys ever tackle that urself?? |
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#14
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Re: Re: Re: Oil Change
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personally, i would not change the timing belt myself. yes it costs alot at the dealership, but they will also warrant their work.
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#15
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Re: Re: Re: Oil Change
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Unless your car is under warranty, i would NOT take your car to a dealership for fear of getting raped out the ass with service charges. My advice would be to find a good import mechanic to work on your car. Any place that is Toyota Certified is a good place (toyota makes their certified mechanics go through more trouble to stay certified and they are more up to date with the import scene). Brakes, spark plugs, and other little shit is easy to do yourself, but i would take your car in before winter (if you have real cold weather) just to make sure everything is tip top. |
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