94 Rodeo Tranny Swap

[Bobocito]

1994 Rodeo 3.2l 4x4 Manual Trans.
Stuck in second gear, clutch works. I got a replacement used transmission and am going to do the swap myself. The directions in Chilton's begin as follows...
"1.Shift the transmission into N. Shift the transfer case into 2H and drive the vehicle forward and backward a few feet/meters to make sure the front axle is not engaged."
I can't do that, since the trans is stuck in second gear. Does anybody know the purpose of that step in the tranny swap? If I can't get it into N, what else should I do?
I have just started the removal of the trans, having pulled the shift levers, elevated the vehicle and removed the skid plates.
I would love to know any of your ideas, either in re. "Step 1" above, or any general tranny removal/replacement tips.
Thanks

[php]

It sounds like they just don't want the front axle to be engaged while doing this because your supposed to take the trans and transfer case out as one unit. Not sure why. But you should know if it is. Have you had it in anything other than 2H recently? If not, then I wouldn't worry about it. Let us know how this turns out. I have a 93 with a 5 speed will need to do the clutch some day (hopefully not soon)

[2eyefishclaw]

just pull the thing out of there it does not matter if it is gear they just want you to be sure that nothing is in a bind make sure you get all 4 wheels up off of the ground

[Bobocito]

Thanks for your ideas. It was in 2H, and being able to rotate the front driveshaft by hand made it less difficult to get at the bolts and remove the shaft. The rear driveshaft is lots more exposed, and so it is easier to remove from the vehicle. Chilton said to take apart the two sections of the rear driveshaft, but I found that unnecessary, kept them attached, and just threaded the entire rear driveshaft through the center bearing housing and back out of the vehicle.
The trans swap has been as one might expect, so far, with rusted nuts and bolts the biggest problem. I am going to have to drill out one of the main crossmember bolts that snapped off. So far.
Some questions...
How necessary is it to remove the exhaust system (from and including the catalytic convertor and pipes forward to the exhaust flange) in order to to remove the trans?
"The book" (Chilton) says to support the engine with a chain hoist and the transmission with a transmission jack while removing the trans. I am wondering if I can get away with buying/renting a transmission jack and using my floor jack to support the engine. If so, is there a spot I can or should use with the floor jack on the engine?
Thanks,
Sean from Michigan