Synthetic VS. conventional Oil

red94fourdoor · #1 10-19-2005, 01:14 PM

I have a 1994 s-10 Blazer with a Vortec 4.3, auto, 4x4 and it runs great. It has 190,000 Miles on the clock. I was wondering if switching to synthetic oil is a good Idea or a bad Idea for a truck with so many miles on the motor already. Should I stick to the Valvoline max life oil I use already or switch to Mobil 1 5-30w synthetic? I am trying to keep this truck going as long as I can.

DINO55 · #2 10-19-2005, 02:27 PM

My friend , you just answered your own question at the end of your post... Make the switch to Mobil 1 and don't ever use fram oil filters..

switch to Mobil 1 5-30w synthetic? I am trying to keep this truck going as long as I can.

red94fourdoor · #3 10-19-2005, 02:40 PM

Whats wrong with FRAM oil filters?

blazes9395 · #4 10-19-2005, 03:07 PM

I would go with synthetic all the way. I use Mobil1 10W30 in both my trucks, 95 Jimmy, and 93 Blazer. Also, don't use the regular frams, they have been shown to be constructed poorly when compared to other filters.

BlazerLT · #5 10-19-2005, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red94fourdoor

Whats wrong with FRAM oil filters?

Do a search and you will see, their construction is based on carbboard encaps that don't seal properly and the anti-drainback valve will allow all the oil in the top of your engine to drain into the pan and you will get dry startup knock.

There are better filters for the same money like a WIX, AC Delco, Purolator etc....

Yes, go to 5w30 synthetic but only if you don't have any leaks at all in your engine.

BlazerBoyLT98 · #6 10-19-2005, 03:13 PM

All Fram oil filters are very poorly made, except for the X2 model which allows you to change the oil every 7500 miles. I would use Napa Gold, Wix, Ac Delco. Don't get to nervous if when you switch to synthetic you leak some oil. I leaked the first 2 oil changes with synthetic a total of maybe a quart. What happens is there are sludge build ups by parts of the gasket which is not allowing any oil to get to certain parts of the gasket, so the gasket gets thin and possible brittle. Now the synthetic especially mobil 1 will cleab your engine very nicely and remove the sludge away from the thin and possibly brittle gasket, when that happens the oil will leak for a short time until the gasket which is now getting oil reswells. Mobil 1 does an incredible job cleaning your engine. My first 2 oil changes came out completely black and nasty. Now the oil I have in there, which has been in there for like 5K miles now is still like honey colored. So don't be too alarmed if some oil leaks and possibly some oil is burned at first. Your engine will thank you, especially over the winter when the truck starts nice and easy and warms up so much faster! Good luck bro let us know how you make out!

red94fourdoor · #7 10-19-2005, 03:17 PM

5-30 is the reccomended grade for the 4.3 are there any advantages of running a heavier oil say 20-50W. I know it has to do with temperature too. I live in NJ so it won't get to -10F or anthing like that

red94fourdoor · #8 10-19-2005, 03:19 PM

Oh yeah I have no leaks as of now. The previous owner had it serviced by the dealer only. It has a ac delco battery and oil filter when I bought it.

BlazerLT · #9 10-19-2005, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red94fourdoor

5-30 is the reccomended grade for the 4.3 are there any advantages of running a heavier oil say 20-50W. I know it has to do with temperature too. I live in NJ so it won't get to -10F or anthing like that

No advantages at all.

Stick to 5w30 for anywhere in the US.

blazes9395 · #10 10-19-2005, 03:26 PM

I wouldn't run 20-50...its to heavy of an oil for these engine...especially at start-up. The reason I run 10-30 and not 5-30 is because I do a lot of highway driving, and I feel it helps protect the engine a little better. Also, when I was using 5-30 I developed a leak at the pan gasket on my 95, I switched over to 10-30 because it is reccomended by Mobil for higher milage vehicles, not only did the leak stop(has been about 8 months now), but I noticed better oil pressure in stop and go traffic.

blazee · #11 10-19-2005, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazes9395

I wouldn't run 20-50...its to heavy of an oil for these engine...especially at start-up. The reason I run 10-30 and not 5-30 is because I do a lot of highway driving, and I feel it helps protect the engine a little better. Also, when I was using 5-30 I developed a leak at the pan gasket on my 95, I switched over to 10-30 because it is reccomended by Mobil for higher milage vehicles, not only did the leak stop(has been about 8 months now), but I noticed better oil pressure in stop and go traffic.

I run Mobil1 10w30 in mine, too. I used 5w30 up until 100,000 and then switched to 10w30, because Mobil1 recommends 5w30 for newer cars and 10w30 for higher mileage cars.

red94fourdoor · #12 10-19-2005, 03:37 PM

I guess I'd run 10-30W I have 190,000mi on the truck now

blazes9395 · #13 10-19-2005, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red94fourdoor

I guess I'd run 10-30W I have 190,000mi on the truck now

I would say 10-30 is your best bet.

red94fourdoor · #14 10-19-2005, 03:46 PM

Thanks a lot guys I'll pick that up and a filter from NAPA. I remember a pic showing all the points to lube on the front end but I can't find it anymore can someone link it for me?

BlazerLT · #15 10-19-2005, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by red94fourdoor

Thanks a lot guys I'll pick that up and a filter from NAPA. I remember a pic showing all the points to lube on the front end but I can't find it anymore can someone link it for me?

Run 5w30 in your engine.

The 10 in 10w30 mean nothing when the engine is at operating temperature.

Whether you have 10w30 or 5w30, they are both 30 weight at operating temperature. The only thing is the 5w30 is thinner when cold which means it will flow faster and protect your engine more on startup.

Stick to the 5w30, it will help your startups in the cold better.

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