Brake drum removal

[KDuong]

Does any one know how to remove the brake drum on a 98 BU? I remove the wheel and the retainer around the wheel stud but the drum does not move at all. I try to whack it with rubber mallet then with hammer but it still does not yield any movement. Any trick that I should know? Where is the access hole on the back plate for the adjuster? Thanks

[gapboi210]

I pulled the drum off of my '01 and there was no hole in the back. To remove it I had to cut off some little safety clips that were on the studs against the drum. The I took a flathead screwdriver and a hammer and tapped it all around so that the drum was coming off evenly. Only took a few seconds. Then was able to remove the drum.

[KDuong]

Thanks. I took them off this weekend. It took heavy beating in all directions and still did not move, finally penetraing oil helped loosen the drum. On the right side, the drum just pulled right off. The rear shoes still look brand new after 8 yrs. I guess the rear did not do much breaking at all. I adjusted the brake and now the parking brake does not sink down as before. There is no hole for the adjuster through the backing plate.

[gapboi210]

Make sure that there was no penetration oil on the threads of the studs. If there is your lug nuts might start backing off.

[DaYtOnAt2]

Originally Posted by gapboi210

Make sure that there was no penetration oil on the threads of the studs. If there is your lug nuts might start backing off.

So I guess I should recheck my head studs on the daytona then, because I torqued them with moly-lube. That's a wives tale gapboi. As long as a torque wrench is used and the nuts are torqued in a star pattern, it won't matter if you use oil, anti-seize, copper-seal, whatever. They're not coming loose.

[KDuong]

I check my lug nut and they are clean of oil. I guess they were cleaned when I sprayed the breake cleaner. As for the oil on the thread, it will increase the tension on the lug and it might break them with the same amount of torque applied due to less friction.

[DaYtOnAt2]

Originally Posted by KDuong

I check my lug nut and they are clean of oil. I guess they were cleaned when I sprayed the breake cleaner. As for the oil on the thread, it will increase the tension on the lug and it might break them with the same amount of torque applied due to less friction.

Not true. If you wanted to you could torque those nuts to 150 ft/lbs. They won't break. The torque spec has nothing to do with oiled or unoiled, aluminum or steel wheels, etc. It's is how far the bolt "stretches" when tightened. !00 ft/lbs is 100 ft/lbs. No matter how you look at it.

[KDuong]

You can check this link or Google the web for torque on bolt with lubrication and see for yourself on torque specification with and without lubrication.

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

[DaYtOnAt2]

Originally Posted by KDuong

You can check this link or Google the web for torque on bolt with lubrication and see for yourself on torque specification with and without lubrication.

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

Alright you're right... I did get somewhat distracted trying to prove a point. Wether or not there is oil though, The lug nuts are not going to "back off" as stated. Lugnuts come loose and wheels fall off due to non-uniformity of torque. As long as they were torqued at all and somewhere near the 100 ft/lbs spec, they aren't going to come loose.
I give ya a on the link.