Windstar 2000 SEL lock button issue.

[vodik]

Hi everybody,
I have another issue to ask your help for.

When I press lock/unlock button on either driver or passenger door those little things (don't now how to call them) that suppose to go up and down (to lock/unlock the door) don't move. If they are in unlock (upper) position and I press lock button nothing happens and I have manually press them down in order to lock both doors. And visa versa, if they are in lock (down) position and I press unlock button.
I'm pretty sure that I have to get inside both door and fix that locking system, but can anybody guide me into right direction. I don't know where to start from.

Thanks in advance for your advices.

[ruggratt]

Originally Posted by vodik

Hi everybody,
I have another issue to ask your help for.

When I press lock/unlock button on either driver or passenger door those little things (don't now how to call them) that suppose to go up and down (to lock/unlock the door) don't move. If they are in unlock (upper) position and I press lock button nothing happens and I have manually press them down in order to lock both doors. And visa versa, if they are in lock (down) position and I press unlock button.
I'm pretty sure that I have to get inside both door and fix that locking system, but can anybody guide me into right direction. I don't know where to start from.

Thanks in advance for your advices.

Do you hear any noises inside the door(s) that seems like they are trying to work when you press the button? Do the sliding doors and liftgate locks still work when you press the button? If not then perhaps you should check your fuses. Even if the other doors work they might be on a different fuse.

[vodik]

Originally Posted by ruggratt

Do you hear any noises inside the door(s) that seems like they are trying to work when you press the button? Do the sliding doors and liftgate locks still work when you press the button? If not then perhaps you should check your fuses. Even if the other doors work they might be on a different fuse.

Yes, I do hear the noise inside the doors, and front doors liftgates do jerk little bit, but they don't go all the way up/down. Sliding doors liftgate locks working just fine.

[ruggratt]

Originally Posted by vodik

Yes, I do hear the noise inside the doors, and front doors liftgates do jerk little bit, but they don't go all the way up/down. Sliding doors liftgate locks working just fine.

Well I think we can rule out the fuse because I believe all the power locks for the whole van are on the same fuse after looking at my manual for my 1996. Not too mention you say it looks/sounds like the front door locks are trying to move. The locks are opened and closed by an electric actuator, one for each door. I find it hard to believe that they would both go bad at once, did they both stop working at the same time?Maybe you have a short or something somewhere. I guess you need to pull the door panels and disconnect the actuators from the locking mechanisms (but leave the electrical connectors plugged in) and try cycling the power lock switches and see if the actuators move. If not then they are bad.

Forgot to ask, but have you tried using the remote to lock/unlock the doors? If that works then maybe the switches are bad. Also my 1996 has a power door switch located just inside the liftgate on the drivers side... if yours has this button, have you tried it?

[Wa jang chang]

My 2000 SEL has a smiliar problem. The passenger side power door lock would not open when I actuate the master door lock switch from the driver side. Every time I actuate the switch I see it tries to open but not quite. It could be the solinoid going bad (not enough electromagnetic kick to actuate the lock). Anyone on this forum know how to replace one of these solinoids?

Wa jang chang

[tartersauce]

Originally Posted by Wa jang chang

My 2000 SEL has a smiliar problem. The passenger side power door lock would not open when I actuate the master door lock switch from the driver side. Every time I actuate the switch I see it tries to open but not quite. It could be the solinoid going bad (not enough electromagnetic kick to actuate the lock). Anyone on this forum know how to replace one of these solinoids?

Wa jang chang

Door lock actuators they all wear out and dont have enough push to lock or unlock. Make sure your linkage is free and moves easy. My Door panel was installed incorrectly Top lip wasnt over the Door at the top, so the linkage binded. My one door, if you use it say two or three times it stop pulling or pushing. But if you let it sit a few mins, it will work once. They just get tired from age. I think they are 80ish each for the front doors. Once I get my other problems fixed, Ill be installing a new one also.

[northern piper]

I just replaced my driver's door lock solenoid on my 2000 3.8. I got the solenoid opener from 1A auto.com and it worked fine. The opener on mine would only periodically open or close. The driver's of course is used many more times as 1 push opens the driver's door, 2 pushes does all doors. Anyway upon replacing the actuator I opened the old unit. Funny thing was, the old unit mechanically was fine except for the fact that the plastic cover casing had 2 of the heat welds come loose. Looked like they weren't solid from day 1. This allowed the shaft of the motor which caused the lock to shift up or down to slide and therefore have only partially opening/closing.

I was pretty miffed that the internals worked fine but the case was the weak link.

The new 1 from 1a was about $25, the OEM part was way overpriced if I recall. Sorry, no pix.

The job is a pita as you have to look inside the door with 1 eye closed while trying to unassemble a part that is really finicky.

good luck

Piper

[tartersauce]

I havent opened one up yet, but if its a plastic weld that needs fixing, Ill be scraping plastic from something and heat gun or soldering ironing back in place.. Ill get photos when I try to repair it If it can get repaired..

[lewisnc100]

Originally Posted by northern piper

The job is a pita as you have to look inside the door with 1 eye closed while trying to unassemble a part that is really finicky.

Much easier if you unhook the rods, unbolt the window channel and set aside, then unscrew the entire lock from the door. Then you can move the whole assembly around easily to replace the actuator.

[northern piper]

couldn't agree with you more. The only problem I see is that in unhooking the rods the plastic snap clip would very likely break. I considered this but was just too concerned that I'd be stuck trying to find a "fergeuson fragistat that would involve ordering the whole door".

So, idealogically yes, my reality no.

Piper