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Old 10-15-2005, 04:03 PM
Kelhasfun Kelhasfun is offline
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sticky lifter

We have a '96 Windstar GL. It's got 217K miles on it. Our lifter clacks when we first start it loudly. Then it quiets down significantly after running it for a little bit. I'm wanting to try an additive to remedy this problem before jumping the gun and replacing the lifter. It was recommended to me to try an engine flush by the dealer. I've checked into this and this process is requiring me to remove the oil pan and cleaning all the gunk out of it after using this flush. My question is, is there a different additive that I can try before going to such an extreme measure (removing oil pan)? Matter of fact, someone told me that back in the day they used to use Type F automatic transmission fluid during an oil change to solve this problem by working as a detergent. Has anybody heard of this? Is this Ok? Any and all suggestions will be helpful as I'm getting ready to do an oil change and would like to try to solve this problem. Thanx and God bless you all.
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Old 10-15-2005, 08:01 PM
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kahjdh kahjdh is offline
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Re: sticky lifter

I would try seafoam. I havent used it but i have heard many great things about that stuff.
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Old 10-15-2005, 09:16 PM
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LeSabre97mint LeSabre97mint is offline
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Re: sticky lifter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelhasfun
We have a '96 Windstar GL. It's got 217K miles on it. Our lifter clacks when we first start it loudly. Then it quiets down significantly after running it for a little bit. I'm wanting to try an additive to remedy this problem before jumping the gun and replacing the lifter. It was recommended to me to try an engine flush by the dealer. I've checked into this and this process is requiring me to remove the oil pan and cleaning all the gunk out of it after using this flush. My question is, is there a different additive that I can try before going to such an extreme measure (removing oil pan)? Matter of fact, someone told me that back in the day they used to use Type F automatic transmission fluid during an oil change to solve this problem by working as a detergent. Has anybody heard of this? Is this Ok? Any and all suggestions will be helpful as I'm getting ready to do an oil change and would like to try to solve this problem. Thanx and God bless you all.

Hello

Are you sure it's a lifter? My 95 had warn rod bearings. When I replaced the head gaskets I thought I'd look into that noise I heard on start up. Tick.....tick....tick.....tick... The engine had 177,000 miles on it. I got it from the orginal owner who took very good care of it. All of the bearings upper halfs were showing copper (not good) where the bottom halfs looked just about new. I replaced the rod bearings for 35.00 and I am glad I did. No more start up noise.

It's not that hard to pull the pan and pull each cap off put in a new insert and retorque the rod. Make sure the cap goes back on the same rod and on the same direction.

I found #6 to be the one that was worned the worst and probably was the one I heard.

Regards

Dan
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:59 PM
Kelhasfun Kelhasfun is offline
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Re: sticky lifter

hey not sure if it's a lifter but we'll try the rod bearings for 35 bucks lol it won't happen for awhile b/c of so many other projects and helping others on their vehicles but I'm sure tired of my mom saying "the van is ticking are you sure you got oil in that?" and of course we do but it's that tic tic tic that drives me nuts. it sounds awful. thanx again for the advice. have fun
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Old 06-16-2006, 08:04 PM
wiswind wiswind is offline
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Re: sticky lifter

I have used a product called autorx.
It is highly recommended by the folks over on the www.bobistheoilguy.com site.....as well as a few other sites.

The website is http://auto-rx.com/index.html

It is one of those gentle cleaning, that really does work, products that does NOT require you to remove the oil pan.
It gently removes the crud, and it is caught in the oil filter.

You have to buy it online, as it is a very small company.
You put it in your oil, with a new filter, drive normally for 2000 miles, change the oil and filter using a non-synthetic oil and drive for another 1500 miles.
Then you change the oil and filter again.
For engines with over 100,000 miles, you repeat the process.
The first cycle, with the product in the oil is called the cleaning phase, and the 2nd cycle with no product in the oil is called the rinse phase.

I have just done this on my '96 3.8L windstar with about 165,000 miles on it.
It was already really clean, from what I could see from looking down in the oil add hole.
I have been using synthetic oil since I bought the vehicle with just under 38,000 miles on it in '99.....except for the rinse phase with the autorx
For this reason, I did just one clean and rinse process.
I am on the 2nd oil change after the rinse phase, and have the maintenance dose in there right now.

I would also visit www.blackstone-labs.com and order a free sample kit.
You take a oil sample as per the instructions, and send it in.
They will test it and get back to you very quickly with the results.
What you need to be concerned about is coolant (antifreeze) leaking into the oil.
It will cause serious damage before you will be able to see the coolant in the oil by any of the traditional methods.

The 3.8L engine is prone to coolant leaks into the oil from the lower intake manifold gaskets and the front cover gasket (aka timing cover).
The '95 3.8L is also prone to head gasket leaks.

The lower intake manifold gaskets can also leak into the air/fuel passage into the cylinder(s), making it look like the head gasket has failed.

I have kept the front cover leak in check for several years with stop leak.
I just had the lower intake manifold gaskets replaced this winter......
Well worth doing this repair.
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Links to my pictures, intended as an aid, not a replacement for, a good repair manual.
1996 3.8L Windstar
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...092975/detail/
2003 Toyota Sienna pictures (not much there yet)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...781661/detail/
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