Shock Replacement

marcre · #1 10-13-2005, 01:37 PM

OK, so I finally got sick of the stock shocks, and at almost 80k, I figured it was time for a replacement. I went out last weekend and bought some sensa tracs. Buy 3 get fourth free. Plus Advance auto had a 10% off sale. So I figured I got a good deal.

I have never done this before so I am not exactly sure what to do. I started to do it last Sunday after the Bills game. I took the wheels off and put the Rodeo on stands. I went to turn the bolts and nothing. They are tight. So, new plan. I have been hitting all the appropriate bolts with PB for the last several days. I will attack again tomorrow.

Now for the help I need. Is it as simple as it looks? Do I just unbolt them and replace? Do the old shocks slide out and the new ones in? Or is there more to it? When I go to pull them out, will something come flying out at me and scar me for life? Seriously, I do not want to bleed or lose teeth or an eye(or two).

The fronts look easier than the rear. I am worried I will not be able to do the rear, as the top nuts look dificult to get to, I will try though. Basically, is this as easy as it looks or is there more to it, like compressing things and what not?

Any help or insight will be greatly appreciated,
Marc

tomlcollins · #2 10-13-2005, 04:43 PM

Haha, just kidding with the subject line,
Yes, replacing shocks are about as simple as they look. It's not like a strut or springs that are under pressure. They're not going to fly out and behead you or anything. As a matter of fact, from what I've heard you would be lucky if the p.o.s. stock ones even extend on their own.
I haven't done the shocks on mine, although I really need to. I hear the fronts are very easy and that the backs are much easier if you have a ratchet wrench to get to the top bolts.
Tom

rodeo02 · #3 10-13-2005, 07:39 PM

Marc, for the tops of the rear shocks, slip a racheting box wrench over the nut, then you will need a crescent wrench or vise-grips to grip on to the hex at the very top of the shock stud. This will keep the whole shock piston from rotating when trying to loosen the mounting nut. It takes some patience, but it's not too bad.
G/luck
Joel

marcre · #4 10-13-2005, 08:39 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. So it seems pretty simple, unbolt and yank them out. I can do that.

Marc

tomlcollins · #5 10-14-2005, 08:41 AM

By the way....just checked on Sears.com, and in my area they're offering free installation right now for Sensatracs, and of course the rebate as well. I think I'm just going to take mine in sometime next week rather than do it myself, simply to save myself an hour or two of grief over the weekend.

marcre · #6 10-14-2005, 03:21 PM

I was thinking of looking for that sears deal, I decided that I want to try it myself. Hopefully all goes well. I am going to have at it in a few hours.

Marc

marcre · #7 10-14-2005, 06:27 PM

grrrrr. Not having much luck. The nuts on the top are not easy. They will not budge. I may need a smaller pair of vice grips.

Back to work,
Marc

Gizmo42 · #8 10-14-2005, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcre

grrrrr. Not having much luck. The nuts on the top are not easy. They will not budge. I may need a smaller pair of vice grips.

Back to work,
Marc

Lots of penetrating oil! Use good oil like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, WD-40 isnt a very good oil. I havent done my shocks yet (though really need to) so I dont know how much room there is to get to the top nut. If there is enough room you might want to pick up a nut splitter to save alot of "gosh darns". I had to use one on the front shocks on my mitsu after I twisted the top off the shock shaft. Just split the nut in half and its off.

rodeo02 · #9 10-14-2005, 09:49 PM

The problem with the top mount of the 1998+ rear shocks is there is no room to work. I dunno if you could work a nut splitter in there. If the nut wont turn, or you cant keep the whole shock piston from turning, you pretty much have to use an oxy/acetylene torch and lop the top of the shock off. That would take a few seconds for shop.
G/luck
Joel

marcre · #10 10-14-2005, 10:02 PM

That's my problem, I can't keep the shock from turning. I got some smaller vice grips to try tomorrow. The top of the shock screw is a bit knarled, I may have to cut it once I get the nut loose. I just have to get it loose first.

Marc

rodeo02 · #11 10-14-2005, 10:26 PM

Marc, another thing you can do is hack the top cover off the shock (they were plastic on my 2002) and grip the piston rod below the upper mount. A BIG hulking pair of vise grips works well for that & will bite in. Dont worry if you totally trash the rear shocks as the truck will still be driveable

.
G/luck
Joel

marcre · #12 10-16-2005, 08:34 PM

So, I decide to give it one more try. After about 30 minutes, I got the front passenger side shock's top nut to turn. It is all mangled, but I got it. So I move over to the drivers side. After a few minutes, that one too, turns.

So, I move on to the bottom(I already got the other side loose). That thing would not budge. I've been hitting it with PB all week. It would not turn. I mean, it is like it is welded on. I tried so hard, but could not get it. I did manage to make it nice and round though.

I have officially given up. I will make an appointment in the morning. Let them deal with the mess I made. I am not even going to attempt the back.

I do have some additional questions, which are not shock related.

1. While I am getting the shocks installed, I am going to replace my tires, because it is time. I live in Buffalo, NY and we see some snow. By some, I mean a lot. My mechanic recommends BFGoodrich AT's. He has them on his 4Runner. He says they are great all around and real nice in the snow. I want something good in the snow. My firestones are not. Are these tires any good?

2. My stock size is 235/75-15. I know there are always "what will fit" questions, and this is another. I want to know if I can go up a size(or more), without any rubbing. I am not trimming or lifting. I am happy with the size on there now, but bigger would look better I think. As long as it does not increase the price a lot.

Marc

rodeo02 · #13 10-17-2005, 08:12 AM

Marc, 6 Buffalo winters took their toll on the those nuts/bolts. A shop will have to cut them off. BFG's are good tires. There are LOTS of good tires out there. Most of the 'name brands' are priced ridiculously high for me. I've been buying coopers for years now & have been very happy with them.

G/luck
Joel

phil73 · #14 10-17-2005, 02:16 PM

I'm from Saguenay region (160 miles nother of quebec city) and I'm using Kelly snowtraker tires and I need at more than 1 foot of snow to stop me.... (While on 4x4....)

Philippe

isuzu rodeo 2001 LS 4x4 auto

marcre · #15 10-17-2005, 03:23 PM

Yea, the Buffalo winter have made those bolts stick.

Bad news is my mechanic wont put the shocks on. He says his boss has put a stop to letting customers bring in their own parts. It kind of angers me, becauseI've been a customer for a long time. What can I do. Now I am kind of stuck, I will try to find another place in a few minutes. I may have to tackle the shocks again, but my jack busted as I was lowering my truck down yesterday. I am mad about that, it is fairly new. All the fluid leaked out.

As far as the tires, I am going with Nokian WR-SUV. I guess they are real good in the snow and ice, which is what I need. They are not real agressive looking, which is what I want, but I am not paying a lot more for a look. These will be about $80 total cheeper than the BFgoodrich tires.

Marc

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