Transmission issues

[F1er0]

when i put my car into drive (automatic) if im holding in the brake the whole car kicks foward, and if im goin into reverse and i dont give it some gas it will sometimes stall out. is there a special transmission that i need for my car 1987 GT. or will any tranny bolt up...im not too keen in the car department.

also whats the best way to fix a vaccuum leak, my check engine light told me i had lean exhaust and a vaccuum leak so i bought a new egr valve kit along with the solenoid(not cheap) and a new oxygen sensor. the parts are still being shipped in so i dunno if it will help or not.

Thanks for any replies..this is my first car...its Friggen Awesome, fieros are deffinetly the most fun car ive ever driven.

[ctesla]

Originally Posted by F1er0

when i put my car into drive (automatic) if im holding in the brake the whole car kicks foward, and if im goin into reverse and i dont give it some gas it will sometimes stall out. is there a special transmission that i need for my car 1987 GT. or will any tranny bolt up...im not too keen in the car department.

also whats the best way to fix a vaccuum leak, my check engine light told me i had lean exhaust and a vaccuum leak so i bought a new egr valve kit along with the solenoid(not cheap) and a new oxygen sensor. the parts are still being shipped in so i dunno if it will help or not.

Thanks for any replies..this is my first car...its Friggen Awesome, fieros are deffinetly the most fun car ive ever driven.

the first issue sounds like merely a broken or loose engine/motor mount, and/or tranny mount.

with engine cold (like sitting overnight) and idling, and trunk popped open, sparingly spray some starting fluid on different areas of the engine:
like start near intake manifold, a one or two second spray like you are feathering a paint job lightly across the top of the intake; then near the EGR, then another minute spray near the air intake horn, etc.
spray a few, wait, spray elsewhere, wait, continue this throughout the engine bay.
if, at any time the engine idles UP, and revs a little higher; that is probably where your vacuum leak lies. isolate it, shut the engine off, and then tighten it, adjust it; if it's a line, replace the rubber, or temporarily tape it, and see if the car idles better.
since it is automatic it may have a vacuum lead from the distributor to the transmission which may affect shifting and idle.

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

[ctesla]

before you put on the expensive stuff, may start with less expensive stuff:
a LEAN condition and/or vacuum leak on ANY OBD1 system refers to emissions systems, so check the air filter box to insure its sealed, maybe replace the fuel cap (as the gas cap is only $4-6. dollars) since it is 10+years old, and has a rubber seal that can detiorate.

...an EGR that loses its spring (weakens in vacuum operation), can weaken the combustion, and rough idle/stumble conditions will generally occur.
an EGR locked open, or burnt out, allowing excessive air flow through it can kill the engine right after cold start and/or warm-up, or surge and run rough during idle and cruising speeds.
no EGR (clogged) can cause high idle/revs and higher coolant temps, higher combustion temps, and engine knock/detonation.

make sure you've done all your other maintenance before jumping to more expensive components, as OBD1 was not that advanced, and many times tripped a code that might be completely unrelated to the actual component that needs attention.

PCV is a couple of bucks, and is one of the fore-runners of emission control, vacuum lines and hoses; any leaks, and yes, she'll run off idle, AND possibly trip a "too lean" condition, and vacuum lines are a buck a foot at auto stores, or one dollar for three to four feet at hardware stores.
have the plugs been changed recently? this is a seven to twelve dollar fix could assist in tripping that code if plugs are mis-gapped, burnt down, covered with soot/carbon/oil, etc.

even after all this, I would still lay money on the O2 sensor, if it has not been pulled and inspected, as if it is coated, then it is feeding the ECM incorrect readings.

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

[Old Lar]

A Fiero runs with a T125 automatic. It is fairly common transmission from the 80s The engine mount issue is also a fairly common problem. Check the dogbone bracket as those bushings are usually worn out after 19 years.

The vacuum leaks will create an error code 32 and are usually the culpret and not necessarily the EGR selinoid itself. Check the small rubber vacuum lines that go into the selinoid for leaks.

[F1er0]

Thanks for all the help ill definetly look into the easier and quicker fixes first, sadley i already bought the expensive parts so might as well put the new ones on even if there not the main issue. thanks for the quick replies!

[F1er0]

also last night i drove my car for about 3-4 hrs straight, i mean really gettin on it on the parkway. normally the check engine light would come on after driving for about 30min-1hr , last night it was pretty cold and no check engine light at all, it ran like a champ all night, this only seems to happen when its hot out. any ideas?