Polished Aluminum Paint?

MikeWz · #1 10-06-2005, 06:16 AM

What paint do you use for a Polished Aluminum look? I remember seeing a model a month or two ago that used some kind of aluminum paint that I liked much better than the Tamiya one I'm using (it's not brushed, it's flat but I still don't really like it).

hks_kansei · #2 10-06-2005, 06:51 AM

many here use a paint called "alclad" or something, i myself use Humbrol enamels and find they are great

freakray · #3 10-06-2005, 06:52 AM

Alclad2 make a great gloss aluminum metalizer, it works really well to create the polished aluminum finish when you apply it folowing their recommendations.

Vric · #4 10-06-2005, 08:07 AM

Model Master Metalizer can do a great jab for metallic color (except chrome)

freakray · #5 10-06-2005, 08:18 AM

And ModelMaster is cheaper than Alclad, the only downside is some ModelMaster metalizers require sealer.

Vric · #6 10-06-2005, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freakray

And ModelMaster is cheaper than Alclad, the only downside is some ModelMaster metalizers require sealer.

Not always need sealer (sorry Ray)

I use various Metalizer color and still haven't used the seller. The paint stick very well so it's not a must (In fact, when you get Buffered color, you have to buff it a bit. If the paint stick to this buffing, it will be ok to just stick there)

But just like Alclard, you need to have an airbrush and paint slowly (as always).

klutz_100 · #7 10-07-2005, 03:02 AM

I've got to say that I am a fan of all Alclad metalizers. Especially the Chrome, Aluminium and Polished aluminium.

They are expensive, but my experience has been that they go a little bit further than others which helps a little.

Down side as said above - more expensive, airbrush only and you need to follow instructions i.e. undercoat with some kind of gloss black depending on the colour used

mickbench · #8 10-07-2005, 06:19 PM

Alclad II. Apply over any gloss black backing, light coats every 5 mins after 4 light coats leave for 10 mins perfect metal shine and bone dry. Amazing how fast it can dry.

Can be buffed if you want more shine, need less shine use a semi gloss backing. Perfect results if applied correctly. I love Alclad II. Pre thinned, dries fast, super hard needs no sealer. Just takes a bit of cleanup the old airbrush afterwards.

I've also used grey primer backing for some silvers to get a different shade, works a treat. So many ways to get a metal look, and so many shades from them, problem is they coat a lot of money.. For the wealthy model builder, in which I'm not.. Ooh... my poor credit card..!! When it hits the mat at the door now it makes the house shake...!!

freakray · #9 10-07-2005, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vric

Not always need sealer (sorry Ray)

I use various Metalizer color and still haven't used the seller. The paint stick very well so it's not a must (In fact, when you get Buffered color, you have to buff it a bit. If the paint stick to this buffing, it will be ok to just stick there)

But just like Alclard, you need to have an airbrush and paint slowly (as always).

I am glad to see you agree with me Eric. Are you so busy looking for ways to correct me that you only read half the threads and half the posts?

I said:

Quote:

the only downside is some ModelMaster metalizers require sealer

Where I come from, that can be understood to mean that NOT ALL NEED A SEALER.
Some need a sealer to prevent them being rubbed off if you're handling them a lot, other do not.

I didn't say it was necessary though.

freakray · #10 10-07-2005, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickbench

Alclad II. Apply over any gloss black backing, light coats every 5 mins after 4 light coats leave for 10 mins perfect metal shine and bone dry. Amazing how fast it can dry.

Can be buffed if you want more shine, need less shine use a semi gloss backing. Perfect results if applied correctly. I love Alclad II. Pre thinned, dries fast, super hard needs no sealer. Just takes a bit of cleanup the old airbrush afterwards.

I've also used grey primer backing for some silvers to get a different shade, works a treat. So many ways to get a metal look, and so many shades from them, problem is they coat a lot of money.. For the wealthy model builder, in which I'm not.. Ooh... my poor credit card..!! When it hits the mat at the door now it makes the house shake...!!

You forgot to mention that whether you need an enamel black base or lacquer black base depends on the Alclad 'color' you're working with.

I have done like you too and used a grey backing and it can create a nice variant on a metal color when you're trying to create effects to represent heating or wear.

MikeWz · #11 10-07-2005, 07:03 PM

That's awesome. I was not aware that Alcad made paints that would work on these models. I use them all the time on my Lexan R/C car bodies and they look incredible.
Will it work on a Photoetch (or plastic, not sure what they're made out of) part? I'm gonna snag me an SAS wing kit for a skyline I'm building and would like to paint the mounts either brushed or polished aluminum. Still havent' decided, all depends on what color the car will be

Vric · #12 10-07-2005, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freakray

I am glad to see you agree with me Eric. Are you so busy looking for ways to correct me that you only read half the threads and half the posts?

I just wanted to specify that it wasn't needed as far as my experience goes. I have 11 colors of Metalizer (out of 15) and none required sealer for me. They ask on the bottle, but from my experience it's not needed (unless you make big parts like body of a planes, but for engines part, forget it)

And I don't look to correct you. You answer to EVERY post on this forum. It's inevitable that sometime I will answer you.

So ok, some might require sealer, it might be the 4 colors I don't have.

You and I are here for long enough to know it's nothing personal

mickbench · #13 10-07-2005, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freakray

You forgot to mention that whether you need an enamel black base or lacquer black base depends on the Alclad 'color' you're working with.

I have done like you too and used a grey backing and it can create a nice variant on a metal color when you're trying to create effects to represent heating or wear.

Yea I did forget to mention that. I tend to use Automotive semi gloss and gloss blacks for my Alclad II backing, or as I mentioned gray primer if I want another shade, or making a heat stain etc..

But for alclad chrome I tend to use Tamiya Enamel Gloss black.

As for P/E parts. There is a thread started by me all about P/E parts. 360spider kindly posted a VERY good write up on P/E parts, as for painting P/E silver, I see no point and you might as well just clean the P/E part and then fix to the model..

RallyRaider · #14 10-07-2005, 07:44 PM

I've always found that the buffing Model Master Metalisers need to be sealed otherwise during handling they pick up finger prints and rub off. But that might just be me?

mickbench · #15 10-07-2005, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RallyRaider

I've always found that the buffing Model Master Metalisers need to be sealed otherwise during handling they pick up finger prints and rub off. But that might just be me?

The humbrol metal paints in the UK are the same. They are called metal cote, but once applied and then allowed to dry that takes ages they rub off and you get silver paint in your fingers, and then if you press your finger down on white paper you can make a finger print with metal silver paint.

Once I used Alclad II and it completely dried in 10 minutes that was it for me. Humbrol and all other wannabe metal paints for me got chucked in the un-wanted pile, and now I reach for Alclad all the time if I need a natural metal look.. It's just the cost that hurts.. In the UK at £4 a bottle, and they don't go that far they are a costly way to recreate that metal look.

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