Swapping intake gaskets on a 5.3L

nathank · #1 10-05-2005, 02:15 PM

After troubleshooting my cold start issue for a month now, I am being told it is most likely intake gaskets.

For anyone who has swapped intake gaskets on a 5.3L please feel free to chime in with any advice that might help with this process. I don't anticipate it will be all that difficult, but I have never worked on a 5.3 before so I am not real sure.

I picked up the gaskets and they are hard plastic with rubber around the port areas. Is it necessary to use silicone on any parts when bolting the intake back on?

From what I can tell the intake torque specs are
1st pass - 44 in/lbs
2nd pass - 89 in/lbs

All help is appreciated!

jeverett · #2 10-05-2005, 02:20 PM

I looked at a shop manual for this procedure when I thought mine were messed up. I decided not to mess with it...more power to ya man.

nathank · #3 10-05-2005, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeverett

I looked at a shop manual for this procedure when I thought mine were messed up. I decided not to mess with it...more power to ya man.

Why did you think they were messed up?

BlenderWizard · #4 10-05-2005, 02:37 PM

While you've got the intake off, you might as well go ahead and change your knock sensors, because they are located under the intake manifold
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...17#post2613117

nathank · #5 10-05-2005, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlenderWizard

While you've got the intake off, you might as well go ahead and change your knock sensors, because they are located under the intake manifold

Great, how much do those cost?

jeverett · #6 10-05-2005, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nathank

Why did you think they were messed up?

I had a bad coolant leak that I couldn't spot outside the engine anywhere, so I had it checked and the head gasket on the driver side was cracked.

It leaked 3 resivors of coolant in the oil before I found out. It later caused my engine to spin 4 bearings.

BlenderWizard · #7 10-05-2005, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeverett

I had a bad coolant leak that I couldn't spot outside the engine anywhere, so I had it checked and the head gasket on the driver side was cracked.

It leaked 3 resivors of coolant in the oil before I found out. It later caused my engine to spin 4 bearings.

That just sounds like it's time to change the engine

BlenderWizard · #8 10-05-2005, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nathank

Great, how much do those cost?

About $40 each, and there's two of them

nathank · #9 10-05-2005, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlenderWizard

About $40 each, and there's two of them

Ouch, I think I'll take my chances with the ones in there.

jeverett · #10 10-05-2005, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlenderWizard

That just sounds like it's time to change the engine

I did, about 30K ago. I'm waiting on this one to crap out on me. I want a 6.0 or a built 5.3 or something like that.

nineball481 · #11 10-05-2005, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nathank

After troubleshooting my cold start issue for a month now, I am being told it is most likely intake gaskets.

For anyone who has swapped intake gaskets on a 5.3L please feel free to chime in with any advice that might help with this process. I don't anticipate it will be all that difficult, but I have never worked on a 5.3 before so I am not real sure.

I picked up the gaskets and they are hard plastic with rubber around the port areas. Is it necessary to use silicone on any parts when bolting the intake back on?

From what I can tell the intake torque specs are
1st pass - 44 in/lbs
2nd pass - 89 in/lbs

All help is appreciated!

Just take your time. Don't loose any parts. It could be helpful to take pictures before you start. Don't force anything off, there may be a hidden bolt. Once you get everything off you should not need silicone for the gasket, it should seal itself. I would recommend getting a Haynes or Chilton manual and read up on the procedure. Those books are handy to have around anyways. Use common sense! Everything should go smoothly.
Once it is back together and you start it and it runs like crap, you have left a sensor or vacuum line disconnected.

Just take your time.

nathank · #12 10-10-2005, 09:44 AM

Completed the swap this weekend. Everything went great and it seems to have cleared up my issue. Thank you all for your help, it is appreciated.

jeverett · #13 10-10-2005, 09:51 AM

Glad to hear it man!

Sublime69 · #14 10-28-2005, 01:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nathank

Completed the swap this weekend. Everything went great and it seems to have cleared up my issue. Thank you all for your help, it is appreciated.

I might need to change mine, how did it go? How long did it take??

Thanks

nathank · #15 10-28-2005, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sublime69

I might need to change mine, how did it go? How long did it take??

Thanks

It actually wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. It took 3 hours or so, but I made sure to clean everything up real well. My throttle body and intake was gunked up so I cleaned all that up real well. I also spent some extra time prepping the intake where the old gaskets were.

Only special tools I had to go get was a 1/4 torque wrench to handle the BIG inch pound torque job. 44in/lbs first pass and 89in/lbs total.

Also, I didn't have the fuel line disconnect tool, so I pulled the injectors from the intake. If you do it this way, be sure to lube those rubber O-rings on the injectors or they won't slide in very easily.

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