Power Steering pump replacement

[97GreenGTP]

Anybody here got instructions to change the power steering pump on a 97 GTP. Shop wants $ 160 to replace it. Can it be done easily at home.
Thanks in advance

[BNaylor]

Here's the general removal procedure for a GM car equipped with a Series II 3800 engine to include getting air out of the system. I'd classify it as DIY. Good luck!


Make sure engine is cold. Disconnect battery negative cable. You'll need a droplight to see what you're doing.

Remove strut tower cross brace.

Remove the coolant reservoir. If you have a Grand Prix with one mounted on the passenger side strut tower, remove it.

Remove the serpentine drive belt by loosening belt tensioner.

At this point, I highly recommend jacking up the passenger side of the car and removing the tire. Support with a jackstand. Remove the plastic splash guard. This will make getting to the pressure and return lines easier.

Remove the 2 power steering pump mounting bolts. Size = 15mm. The bolts holding the PS pump are in the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. You'll need to move the PS pulley and line up the large access hole in the PS pump pulley with the bolts. Once lined up, using a deep well socket remove them.

Remove pressure and return lines from PS pump. The pressure line is on the bottom of the pump itself and has a metal fitting. The return line is attached to the reservoir and is just a piece of tubing with a hose clamp on it. Remove pump. The pump will start leaking fluid all over the place once the lines are disconnected. Try to tie the two lines up, if possible, so that they don't fall over and start pouring out fluid.

The new pump may or may not come with a pulley and reservoir. If not you will have to transfer them from the old pump to the new one. The replacement should come with directions on how to do this but you will probably need a gear/pulley puller to get the pulley off the old pump.

Install new PS pump. Attach the pressure and return lines to the new pump. Re-mount PS pump by replacing the 2 bolts and tightening (20 ft-lbs).

Re-install plastic splash guard. Re-install tire and drop back to ground level.

Re-install the serpentine belt. This may be a good time to install a new belt.

Re-install coolant reservoir, if applicable.

Re-install strut tower cross brace.

Make sure everything is tight and properly torqued.

Re-connect battery negative cable.

Refill and air bleeding procedure (rack n pinion system):

NOTE: To relieve steering tension when engine is off, you can raise and support the vehicle with front wheels off the ground. Use good quality power steering fluid. A small funnel with a long hose attached should be used to add fluid.

With ignition off and in steering unlock position, turn wheel to the left. Now add power steering fluid to the FULL COLD mark on the dipstick. Leave the cap off. Turns wheels side to side several times without hitting the steering stops. Check fluid level again and add to maintain level at FULL COLD mark.

Start the engine and let idle for approximately 5 minutes. Turn the wheels all the way to the left and right several times without hitting the stops. Turn off engine and check the fluid level again. Make sure that it is at or near the FULL HOT line. Replace cap.

Road test car and then check for leaks. Also you can re-check fluid level again just to verify. Good luck!









Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM, SLP Headers,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, 2.5 DP/Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, ZZP Stage 1 72mm TB,
TB spacer, MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 103,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
1/4 ET: 13.210 sec. @ 104.490 mph
0 - 60 ft: 1.945 sec.