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| Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? |
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#1
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Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
Ok. I'm thinking about switching over to Royal Purple. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it worth the $$$? Also, my ride has 56k. Is this a good time to change? and do I just do a regular change or should I do a complete flush first?
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#3
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I've just been using Penzoil. I've been thinking about changing to synthetic, but I wasn't sure what kind. I heard good things online about Royal Purple, but I wanted to get someone's first hand opinion. ARe there any cons of synthetic?
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![]() "they sell us love as divinity when it's only a social obscenity" |
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#4
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The cons to synth are price and leaky seals in higher mileage engines. The seals leak due to higher viscosity. With 50-60k miles you should be good to go.
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#5
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I've always used synthetics in my cars.I always notice an increase in HP on the initial change. I also have started using Prolong too and it seems to make a difference {could be my imagination}. I have Royal Purple in my tranny now. No problems as of yet. Smoother shifting, combined with my new Neuspeed short shift kit. We'll see how it goes in the long haul as I just replaced the fuids this morning.....Russtang, blue type s RSX
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#6
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thanks!!!
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#7
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#8
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I have never used Royal Purple but I use the Mobil 1 Synthetic and it works great.
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1989 s13 Fastback Tein HE coil-overs sr20det swapped! JIC Magic Front and Rear Strut Bars Slotted and Cross-drilled Rotors S/S Brake Lines Pivot Lazy eye controller Blitz LM Intake Blitz D1 Spec Turbo Timer Soon to come: Sard 550cc Injectors Blitz Nur Spec Exhaust Blitz Down pipe HKS FMIC http://www.driftmonkey.com (Part Owner) |
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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speaking of synthetic switchovers
I'm at 33,000 mi and I've been thinking of switching from ole'fashioned oil to synthetic (probably mobil 1). but I've been afraid of the seal leakage... Are there any things that can be done to avoid replacing the seals? I heard of people doing half-regular half-synthetic for a few thousand miles before going full-synth, but I'm not sure if that's just an old wives' tale or if it actually makes a difference. Any suggestions on this?
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#11
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Re: speaking of synthetic switchovers
Quote:
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1989 s13 Fastback Tein HE coil-overs sr20det swapped! JIC Magic Front and Rear Strut Bars Slotted and Cross-drilled Rotors S/S Brake Lines Pivot Lazy eye controller Blitz LM Intake Blitz D1 Spec Turbo Timer Soon to come: Sard 550cc Injectors Blitz Nur Spec Exhaust Blitz Down pipe HKS FMIC http://www.driftmonkey.com (Part Owner) |
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#12
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Re: Re: speaking of synthetic switchovers
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two weights of oil in the same engine would certainly have peculiar effects!Is it the head gasket that most commonly suffers from leakage from synthetic swaps, or is it another gasket/seal? I'm just trying to figure out my worst-case-scenario costs for switching to synth. |
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#13
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i think maybe what he is talking about is synthetic blend. but also, i heard alot of people say that you can't switch to synthetic if you did not start with it, it eats your gaskets. but then again i've heard it's the other way around, you can't switch from synthetic to regular. anyone have any info on this?
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#14
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Re: Re: Re: speaking of synthetic switchovers
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Hope this helps. |
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#15
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not that im a petroleum engineer or anything, but i do work at an fast lube shop. as far as not being able to mix the two, just look at syntec blend as an example. its part GTX and part syntec. it works fine, just doesnt hold up as well in severe driving as syntec does. also, about not being able to go back to a conventional oil after using a synthetic, once again thats false. you can put either one in, again, the example being blend oils. but you will notice differences in your engines performance. syntec comes in 5w50, which means that it can handle a greater range of temperatures. another thing that is good about synthetic is its ability to bond to engine parts better. when you first start a cold engine, conventional oil, for the most part, has settle down in the pan. with synthetics, they have an opposite charge from the metal in your block, so they cling to it a lot better. this prevents dry starting, or what happens when you crank a cold engine and the oil pump has to hurry to get oil to your valves. we see it all the time at work. we drain the old oil, take off the filter, and pump fresh oil in and new filter, but then when we start the car, it has a slight valve tap for about 3 seconds. this is because for those three seconds, the oil pump must fill the filter first before supplying oil to the top end. now when you start up in the morning, your filter already has oil in it, but the effect is the same, for a few seconds the top end is virtually oil-less. bottom line is, synthetics work, and if you have an older engine, they make it feel less old, but of course with a 5w50, there is a greater chance of it seeping through the pan gasket than with a conventional 20w50 or something in that order that is usually used on engines with high mileage. if synthetics did destroy engines, then i doubt that chevrolet would not REQUIRE that all newer corvettes use mobil 1 and nothing else.
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