which number am I, ka-t complete !!!

[NiSmO_zt]

heres what i did yesterday:



heres what ive got:

stock motor 50k miles swapped
ngk brk7es-11 plugs at .30
wallbro 255lph pump
sard 550cc injectors
enthalpy tune ecu
z32 mafs
apexi safc-II
t3/t04e .50 / .48 a/r's and 57 trim
bd mani, dp, ic and piping
jgs bov and wastegate


So here is my situation, it starts fine and will idle fine and steady, with a/f ratio fine, but when you start to rev it, the a/f immediately drops off to lean, and while your crusing, its lean. it doesnt want to rev very much above 4k, in neutral, revving it up, it kind of breaks up, and is not very consistent.

I put the signal to the bov on the line from the fuel pressure regulator, which is post-throttle body, because the jgs is pull type, and it leaks at idle, but blows off like it should when you rev it, but i cant stop it from leaking. when you pull the signal off, it will stop leaking, but it really doesnt change any of the fuel problems. any particular ways of stopping this leaking?

i completely removed the aiv/pair valve from the car, and capped the vac lines under the tb, where they go.

i've taken the egr tube off, and pulled and plugged the vac line to the egr, so it wont open(ran perfect before the swap like this), and i have just a downpipe for exhasut, until about wednesday, so i can see some idle probs from having no exhaust, but when you rev it and let off, the idle goes very low, and then bounces back up, even after i set the dec-air func on the afc.

do i need to change the base timing with the turbo setup?
what could be causeing it to lean out immediately while revving?

i wired the z32 maf wiht pin B as signal, C as chassis ground, D as harness ground, and E as +12v, and pins A, F arent used. and im running 2 in and 5 out to smooth the idle out


thanks for any input

-chris

[TatII]

the reason why its breaking up when your cruising is cause its leaning itself out. non of these off the self tunes are ever perfect from the mail and all requires some sort of fuel tweaking. so since your reading lean, just use the safc and richen the thing up in the cruising rpm till redline so it won't break up.

also what are your in and out settings on the safc for the Z maf? everyone is different but me, nissanfanatic and structure240sx all runs 6in and 6 out. since your running a tuned ecu i wouldn't worry about timing if your gonna run under 10 psi. if your gonna run above that, i would borrow a snap on scan tool, or a techtom mdm to check for timing advance at wot. with stock internals your suppose to pull around .75 degree per psi. so running around 14 psi you should see 15 degrees before wot and then the computer will slow advance the timing up to 17 degrees before top dead center. the base timing without any mods is 28 degrees at wot.

just to be safe, setup the knock readings on your safcII then slowly depress on the throttle little by little to hit boost then you would see your afr, then tun accordingly. do you have a wideband? its good to have them in the 11:1 range.

[NiSmO_zt]

since i didnt have an air filter, i figured when i put one on, it would change the reading a bit, but i was running 2 in 5 out and it ran smooth, but today, i cleaned the maf out with cleaner and comp. air, and it changed everything, the a/f were very good(narrow band), but as soon as it got to about 3psi, it broke up, so ive still got some tinkering.

ill try to add some fuel, and change the maf voltages this afternoon

oh, and i backed the timing off just a few degrees for now 2 maybe 3

the egt is from 10-12 while driving, which is good i think, and the car is fine up until you start to boost

thx
-chris

[nissanfanatic]

Use 6in, 6out.

go to http://www.zeroyon.com tech articles to find how to set Dec. air.


Gap your plugs down. And check the http://www.ka-t.org/tech articles for other good things to do.

I do about 20-21* total timing at 11psi. And I see 10.7-11.1 AF ratios. Its really hot in Fl, so I play it safe.

Get a wideband before you start messing with fuel at WOT. And until then, just run Enthalpy tune. He is good. After my re-tune, I pull maybe 1-2% in the higher RPM. And after my T04E upgrade, I doubt I will be.

[NiSmO_zt]

well, heres where im at now, after i cleaned the maf out, the a/f ratios are very normal, just liek before the swap, and the car pulls fine below about 3-4psi, but then it acts like it hits a brick wall, but when it stops pulling, the a/f stays constant, it doesnt drop off or anything.... so maybe the gap, like you said cory, but i have them at .030, how low can you go? also, im installing an msd blaster 2 very soon, so that might help.

also, my jgs bov is leaking at idle when the source line is where it is supposed to be, and when i take the source off completely, it doesnt leak at all, but doesnt work obviously, so ive got it disconnected for the time being, until i can figure out why it leaks on vac !!!

thx
-chris

[nissanfanatic]

Wait until you install coil and hten check back. I'd put money that the coil is your culprit.

[monooxide]

KA-T power...well somewhat..I hope I dont ahve problems with my KA once its done. Do you think it is because the ECU tune or just solely from this Vacuum leak or the Coil possibly? time will tell keep us updated. Your KA-T # 4 technically but #3 theoretically...Just because Ghostchild is N/A now.

[NiSmO_zt]

yeah, ill leave the gap alone, since im putting the coil on tomorrow, prolly just blowing the spark out, the coil is out of a '90 car anyway. ill keep you updated!

-chris

[turbo2nr]

good luck man on the ka-t, i too will soon be there,

see you also joined the to4 club, i will soon be there as well, hope you get your prob. worked out.

1

[Tims_240]

Originally Posted by monooxide

Your KA-T # 4 technically but #3 theoretically...Just because Ghostchild is N/A now.

oh, i see how it is.

[TatII]

gap that shit down to .027 when i had it at .03 it was breaking up at 12 psi.

[nissanfanatic]

I run .03" and no missing issues at 11psi.

[NiSmO_zt]

well, i installed the coil, and... no help, the car revs fine, i took it up to 7k slowly while not on boost, but the minute you get about 2psi, it breaks up and kind of cuts off, but not like fuel cut, and the a/f and egt reading remain constant, they dont shoot either way.

whatever the problem is, it is definately happening when the condition goes from vaccum to pressure, but what could it be? it idles perfect, so i didnt think it could be an intake leak

would me backing the timing off 2-3 degrees cause this? i backed it off to be a bit safe for now, but i didnt think it would cause anything like this.

the signal line is taken off the egr, so it cant open, the aiv is removed, the bov is not hooked up, so i dont think it can open at all, and its not leaking

the car isnt making any wierd noises when this happens, i put 94 octane in it, it just kind of cuts out and decellerates, and not just a one cylinder misfire, but the whole motor


<=== pulling hair out !


thx
-chris

[Tims_240]

dude, same thing has happened to me like 34256902609283896023 times, the same exact thing you are describing 9/10 for me has been a boost leak.
idle with be fine because you are not pressurizing your intercooler/intake system, its mainly sucking in air, so its not going to leak that much, but once you put it under pressure (PSI) it will start to leak air, and even that pressurized air is getting measured by the mafs, and making you run rich when you boost.
i mean you even said it yourself, if you dont boost then it doesnt do it, which is what i did and its doing the same thing to you.
in conclusion, you have a boost leak. .02
-tim

[NiSmO_zt]

found it! my jgs bov was leaky right, so i unplugged the sensor line to it.... and under boost, the piston was geting pushed open... so i put a heavier spring into it so it doesnt leak at idle... biingo bango bongo => striped ass ape


i am so freakin happy right now, i drove it around a local township and hit 9 psi, and when i went back through my afc, it said maximum throttle i gave it was 48% !

im frickin stoked, almost scared of it too


peace
-chris