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#1
09-30-2005, 04:48 AM
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dont know. CLUTCH
Ok.. I didn't drive my car for about a day or 2 when i went to go start it up it started but the clutch pedal stuck to the floor and it was really hard to get in gear for a while. After driving around for about 30 minutes it was perfectly fine. Now the clutch goes in and pops out with no problems at all. What do you think could be causing this to stick when i don't drive the car? Also how long should i wait when it does do this so i don't grind the gears.
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MODS , 2g pistons, cyclone intake manifold, ported 1g head, 60mm tb, greddy type s bov, apex-i n1 exhaust , ngk spark plugs, 3 angle valve job, autometer boost/vac, autometer air/fuel ,autometer oil pressure ,cross drilled rotors ,turbonetics boost controller ,air filter ,remove dump tube, 14b turbo and the ac still doesn't work and its been almost 3 years 
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#2
09-30-2005, 12:52 PM
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Sounds like clutch slave cyl. I would simply replace it @ the fluid in the line.
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1995 Jeep Wrangler 3 1/2" lift 33x12.50 tires 4.5L stroked I-6 Bored throttle body & Cold Air Intake Jet Chip Stage 2 Jet Thermostat Colorado Off Road Rig!!!
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#3
09-30-2005, 12:57 PM
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You've got a leak somewhere in the lines, very well may be at the slave cylinder. I'd check that out first, and then make sure all the hydraulic lines are good. The fact that it dropped to the floor means there's no more hydraulic pressure, therefore, nothing to push the clutch fork, and results in the shifting being very complicated to do. The more you drove, the more you forced fluid into the lines, and the easier it got to shift, but this is most likely just going to keep happening until there's no more fluid, then it won't shift at all.
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1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD MOD LIST: ______________________ Mitsubishi s16g, Turboback 2 1/2 in. w/ Hi-Flow Cat, ACT 2600 Clutch, K&N Filter, Taylor 10.5 mm Spark Plug Wires, BPR7ES Plugs, Dejon Tool UICP, Turbo XS Type H BOV, Samborskey Shift Kit, Walbro 255lph, Injector Clinic 550's, 2g mas, Vaccum line elimination, SAFC II, Pocketlogger, 17" Motegi Gloss Black Rims, VIS Carbon Fiber Hood, Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB AGX, Homemade boost controller, Autometer Boost/Air Fuel
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#4
09-30-2005, 12:58 PM
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Re: dont know. CLUTCH
Oh and i noticed in your sig that you should probably reinstall the dump tube... it's for the better.
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1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD MOD LIST: ______________________ Mitsubishi s16g, Turboback 2 1/2 in. w/ Hi-Flow Cat, ACT 2600 Clutch, K&N Filter, Taylor 10.5 mm Spark Plug Wires, BPR7ES Plugs, Dejon Tool UICP, Turbo XS Type H BOV, Samborskey Shift Kit, Walbro 255lph, Injector Clinic 550's, 2g mas, Vaccum line elimination, SAFC II, Pocketlogger, 17" Motegi Gloss Black Rims, VIS Carbon Fiber Hood, Eibach Lowering Springs, KYB AGX, Homemade boost controller, Autometer Boost/Air Fuel
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#5
09-30-2005, 08:38 PM
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Re: dont know. CLUTCH
Thanks I'll check that out first... Why should i put the dump tube back . Its has part of it in there im not venting....
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MODS , 2g pistons, cyclone intake manifold, ported 1g head, 60mm tb, greddy type s bov, apex-i n1 exhaust , ngk spark plugs, 3 angle valve job, autometer boost/vac, autometer air/fuel ,autometer oil pressure ,cross drilled rotors ,turbonetics boost controller ,air filter ,remove dump tube, 14b turbo and the ac still doesn't work and its been almost 3 years
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#6
10-04-2005, 08:16 AM
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Re: dont know. CLUTCH
My slave cylinder took a crap the other day....same problem. $51 from Satan. If you want to get moving a little faster, just pump the clutch 7 or 8 times and you will regain pedal pressure.
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 1997 Spyder GS-T 5-Speed EVO III 16g, DSMLink, Walboro 190 lph Fuel Pump, FIC 650cc injectors, CoolingMist 150psi Methanol Injection, Greddy EVO 2 Cat Back, 2.5" Extreme DP, 2.5" Extreme Hi-Flow Cat, Injen intake, HyperDrive C1 Street Disk & PP, HyperDrive Lightweight Flywheel, 1g BOV, RRE UICP, Home Depot MBC, AEM UEGO WBO2, Brembo Slotted rotors, Akebono Ceramic Pads
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#7
10-05-2005, 06:00 PM
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Re: dont know. CLUTCH
Hey this same thing happened to me in both my gs and gs-t. Bleed out your remaining clutch fuild, if any, check your lines and replace then if needed, then dump some cluth fuild in there and pump it 3 times then bleed, and repeat this process a couple times till it quits stcking. If none of this works replace your slave cylinder and get your cluth looked at
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